This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

Electronics / Re: need help with wiring on blower fan

« on: November 05, 2013, 05:07:16 PM »

got it working great...thanks again for the info!

2

Electronics / Re: need help with wiring on blower fan

« on: November 05, 2013, 01:43:27 PM »

One is hot and the other is not, they can go either way, just like turning over a plug in the wall socket on your electric drill.

I understand now. Your saying either way it's hooked it will still work normal. thanks again!

3

Electronics / Re: need help with wiring on blower fan

« on: November 05, 2013, 01:39:23 PM »

The motor only has two black wires. I'm not sure which one is hot.

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

4

Electronics / Re: need help with wiring on blower fan

« on: November 05, 2013, 01:19:48 PM »

One is hot and the other is not, they can go either way, just like turning over a plug in the wall socket on your electric drill.

I realized one is hot and the other is not. My concern is if they are hooked up wrong....will this damage the motor?..or will it just run in reverse? It's a 115v motor. thanks for the help!

5

Electronics / need help with wiring on blower fan

« on: November 05, 2013, 12:56:04 PM »

I'm installing a new blower fan assemble on my wood doctor. I realized both wires from the old and new motors are black. How can I test them with a volt meter to ensure what is hot and ground? I'm not sure how to hook the motor to the power from the boiler.  I need to identify the wires on the motor but they are both black....thanks!

6

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: newbie question on AC

« on: May 23, 2013, 04:44:54 PM »

Most corrosion happens in the firebox. If you search the wood doctor section here for problems on your model, the places where they occur are where you will want to put the most attention into keeping clean.

I have done some research on my model and was discouraged when I found out the history of the company/products. The OWB came installed in the house we bought. We have an amazing home w/40 acres, a stocked pond, 40x40 garage, prime hunting land and etc. I was not going to let the brand of the OWB alter my choice. I bought the house with the expectation of replacing the OWB at some point. I do plan on giving this unit my best effort. I spent over 4 hours cleaning it by hand, wire wheel, brass brushes, brass scrapers and etc. The inside is like new and it has a nice coating of an Amsoil synthetic aerosal spray grease. It won't dry out like wd40 and coats better than motor oil. It clings to everything and leaves thick layer that doesn't allow gravity to "drip dry" the surfaces.
 The original owner of the house was supposed to get me the owners manual for the OWB...but never did. I have searched the web a lot for a WD8000 manual with no luck. Any suggestions on downloading an original owners manual? 

7

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: newbie question on AC

« on: May 23, 2013, 03:01:26 PM »

With it removed, just plug one port and pour it full from the other. If it has been in the system and only a couple weeks, it likely didn't dry up much and I would just leave it alone and not worry about it.

thanks again for your time! Hopefully I can make this wood doctor last as long as possible!

8

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: newbie question on AC

« on: May 23, 2013, 02:46:58 PM »

You shouldn't need to leave the pump running. Some people think they last longer if run all the time but even if it extends the life you will spend more in electricity than the pump cost per year of it's life. Running for a few minutes once or twice a month is better. Once pumps are getting weak, they can keep running but not be able to start up. If you leave it running it might make it till the middle of winter till you find out it is going bad instead of when it is warm out.

If you have had the pump sitting for a while with no water in it, you might want to fill it with diluted vinegar and let it soak for a few days then flush out with clean water.
The reason for this is that the water in it will have evaporated and left behind any minerals that were in it. The dried minerals can freeze up the pump.

I will take your advice on the pump. Plus I already have a spare(new) pump ready to go if needed. My blower fan motor went out last winter so I bought two right away to have a spare. I'm on a mission to never burn propane again! haha The boiler has been sitting empty for about a week. What is the best way to get the water/vinegar mixture into the pump? thanks again!!!

9

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: newbie question on AC

« on: May 23, 2013, 02:09:09 PM »

It will slow the airflow a little but probably make little difference in the AC system unless you used a smaller HX than the plenum and have it fairly restrictive.

Did you drain the OWB too? If so, you really need to get it completely dry inside the water jacket or it will probably rust. The reason is that the small amount of water continually will evaporate and condense on the surfaces with temperature changes and since there is plenty of oxygen there too it will rust.

With properly treated water there will be no rusting and it is best to fill so it is full to top of overflow.

I did drain the boiler also. The system was drained from the basement and also from the back of the tank on the boiler. I see your point and appreciate your help. I want it stored the best way possible as I understand the value in maintenance. I have no manual and little experience with this system. I do have low PH tap water and the proper chemical to treat the water. I will re-fill the system and treat the water. Once I have circulated the water enough(to get the treatment mixed well)....should I still leave the pump running to circulate the water?

10

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: newbie question on AC

« on: May 23, 2013, 01:20:33 PM »

 The entire system is drained and the boiler itself is clean and ready for summer. I'm not worried about freezing any water..my only concern was airflow. I thought the central air fan might struggle to move the air quickly through the ducts. Sounds like leaving it in would be okay. thanks!

11

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / newbie question on AC

« on: May 22, 2013, 04:22:22 PM »

Hello! This is my second post for help on this site. Thanks to all who helped me before! This is my first summer owning an OWB. I did a search on this forum but couldn't find any info on my topic. I have a wood doctor WD8000 and also have central air in my house. My heat exchanger is currently installed in my air duct for heating(forced air). My question is when I run my AC....do I need to remove the heat exchanger or can it be left in place? thank you!

12

Electronics / Re: blower fan will not work consistantly...

« on: January 23, 2013, 09:05:07 PM »

im not sure if you can replace parts..i would think you can..im not much of "fixer" of electrical equipment...blowers are cheap i just replace mine teh one i use is in graingers catalauge and is about 52 bucks or something line that...so i think i have wore out 2 in 11 years so that is around 10 bucks a year for blower cost. that is cheap enough for me to just buy one.

cool..thanks! I was already looking at grainger. I'll just get two blower assembles and have a spare. I already have a brand new pump as an extra. It seems like electronics are being built with less quality lately..even the china stuff seems worse(like that was even possible). I just installed heat in my shop. I went through 3 brand new t-stats before one worked correctly. I think some of the brand new parts we get are still crap. 

13

Electronics / Re: blower fan will not work consistantly...

« on: January 23, 2013, 08:12:14 PM »

info from another forum on the net

quote- A capacitor start motor that doesn't start, Usually has one of two problems:
1) Capacitor or wiring is bad
 2) Centrifugal switch is stuck.

What is the centrifugal switch? Is that the relay/switch that operates the damper door?


Also...where is a good place to get parts? Can you get replacement parts for the blower assembly?...or do you need to buy the whole unit?

thanks to all for the help and replies !!!!

14

Electronics / Re: blower fan will not work consistantly...

« on: January 23, 2013, 06:30:49 PM »

Have you tried turning the fan by hand when it is supposed to be running? If you have a volt meter, check the voltage at the fan. You might have a bad connection or defective contacts in the aquastat. Also check the wire connections to the capacitor. I doubt it is bad if it works on and off but could be a bad connection.
It is also possible for the motor to get a bad spot and if it stops in that position it won't start again but once it gets running it passes that spot fast enough to not make a difference.

thanks for the reply! Another member also messaged me and said the same thing about the motor having a bad spot. It has not "acted up" since earlier so I was un able to really test anything. I checked all the connections and checked for resistance with a volt meter....everything looks good. I'm leaning towards the motor having a dead spot.   

15

Electronics / Re: blower fan will not work consistantly...

« on: January 23, 2013, 04:04:57 PM »

thanks again! I do appreciate your time. The fan is running right now on it's own. I know if i directly hot wire the fan...it will work. My problem is that it's not predictable...so it might work now...but will change. I just read another post on here about someone having a the same problem. There fan would not start so they would spin the motor(by hand) and it would start working again. They replaced the fan motor capacitor. To me it seems like my aquastat is working(it is brand new). When the fan is not turning on properly...I can manually turn the temp dial and hear a click, but no fan...that tells me the stat is working. I'm i wrong? Shouldn't there be a way to test this with a meter?
  I don't know anything about hvac..but do know about brushed motors. The motor(when running) is strong and quiet with minimal sparks. When getting up to speed and during operation...it always sounds and works the same. It's a matter of getting turned on. I would think if the brushes or other parts are worn, you would see other issues while operating the motor. If a capacitor is bad it would makes sense...the fan eventually always turns on...some times it just takes longer. Maybe the "bad" capacitor is not holding a charge. If the motor had other issues I don't think it would keep turning on and running good.
 On a side note...I agree about the Honeywell. My actual settings read different than my gauges. The last aquastat seemed to have a mind of it's own. That's why this one is new. But it's still not accurate when you compare the setting on the dial vs the actual temps.