Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Pages: [1]
1
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: November 11, 2013, 09:55:53 PM »
I had one other question. I am wondering if I should have the draft opening on the fan motor fully open or partially closed. It is called an air flow adjust in the manual.
2
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: November 11, 2013, 09:47:11 PM »
Thanks for the feedback Slim. I'm not sure what the stack temperature is but will measure at some point. I have some creosote buildup but not as much with the colder temperatures outside. I have the stove running at 180. I have to say that I am very impressed with the wood consumption. We had our first very cold night with a low of -15 celcius and windchill of -25. I filled the stove in the early evening and checked it 12 hours later. The stove was still full with charcoal looking logs. I noticed this evening that the fan rarely turns on and when it does, the temperature rises 10 degrees in a very short period of time. The brick and grate system in the bottom allows any moisture to drain from the firebox area and I'm sure the firebricks contains the heat very well.
3
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: November 10, 2013, 07:09:21 PM »
Although my stove is running well I had a bit of a surprise the other morning. When I opened the ash pan door, the stove started to vibrate and I could hear the fan rattle. The fan was off at the time so I can only assume that The vibration was caused by a sudden change in air pressure. I opened the firebox door and the vibration stopped. I had opened the ash pan door a number of times in the past few weeks and this did not happen. The heat exchanger and stove piping were clean at the time. No damage to the unit or fan. Any thoughts?
4
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: October 22, 2013, 08:32:17 PM »
So far, I am very happy with the stove. It seems to be a good quality stove and I am quite certain it is burning less wood than my previous stove. The fire brick gets very hot and seems to maintain the heat for considerable time when there are small amounts of wood left in the stove. The real test will come when the temperatures here fall to -30 Celsius next month. The stove also seems to be very well insulated. You do have to be careful when opening the door. On one occasion, I opened the door too quickly and had to hit the dirt as a massive ball of fire headed my way 
I am going to continue to adjust the max temperature and differential to find the more efficient burn. Trying the temp. at 185 and diff. at 10 degrees at the moment. I'll probably try 190 on the weekend when I have time to monitor the stove more closely. Thanks for your suggestions.
I am going to continue to adjust the max temperature and differential to find the more efficient burn. Trying the temp. at 185 and diff. at 10 degrees at the moment. I'll probably try 190 on the weekend when I have time to monitor the stove more closely. Thanks for your suggestions.
5
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: October 21, 2013, 09:35:12 PM »
Hi Slimjim,
Just reading your comment again and recommendation about turning the max. temperature on the boiler to 190. Just wondering what your rationale is and why this might be more efficient. I was considering lowering the temp. from 180. I am certainly looking for the most efficient burn. I appreciate the feedback.
Just reading your comment again and recommendation about turning the max. temperature on the boiler to 190. Just wondering what your rationale is and why this might be more efficient. I was considering lowering the temp. from 180. I am certainly looking for the most efficient burn. I appreciate the feedback.
6
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: October 21, 2013, 09:23:13 PM »
I also have my bl28-40 installed and running. The weather here in Northern Ontario is already cold with our first snowfall last night. I am also wondering about the most efficient heat settings. I have the temperature set for 180 F and the differential at 10. I generally find that although the fan shuts off at 180, the stove will often reach a temp. of 183 to 185 before it begins to cool. I am wondering if I should reduce the max temperature setting to 170 or 175 degrees. On another note, I had to add 9 ft of piping to the stack and instead of using guy wires, I have supported the chimney to the lifting hook on the top of the stove with a telescopic rod that is normally used to support a chimney to the roof of a home. It works well and provides enough support for high winds.
7
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: September 01, 2013, 08:51:33 PM »
I am installing my new stove and am having some challenges finding the fitting to connect my old poly b pipe to the new pipe (from ground to the stove fitting). I am looking for a copper or brass barbed fitting for a the poly b with an inside diameter of 7/8 inch. The male threaded end can be 3/4 or 1 inch in diameter. I have looked for this part online and have visited a number of stores. If anyone knows where I can find this part, please let me know. Thanks.
8
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: July 23, 2013, 10:41:04 PM »
I am looking for a device to monitor the temperature of the water in the copper piping as it enters the house. The device should have a low and high temperature sensor and an alarm system should the water temperature drop below 160 or above 180 degree (roughly). It would need to have a probe that could somehow attach to the piping. It would be helpful if the system was wireless so that the alarm itself was upstairs. Even better, there might be an IPhone option. Do any of you know of such a device? Thanks.
9
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: July 15, 2013, 10:35:53 PM »
I have decided to purchase one also and hope to have it shipped in the next few weeks. I will keep people posted as to how it performs. I'm sure I will have more questions. Thanks.
10
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: July 06, 2013, 07:24:19 PM »
Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me if P&M requires that the use of glycol in their boilers. I have done some research and it is quite expensive.
11
Portage & Main / Re: Ultimizer BL 28-40
« on: July 03, 2013, 10:45:20 PM »
I am trying to find out more about the BL28-40 from an owner. However, I am not sure when they first went into production and whether they have been tested by an owner for a winter.
I currently own a Central Boiler CL-17 that sprung a leak this past winter for the first time in 20 years. Although I have considered buying another CB, I have a couple of friends who have had serious problems with water leaking from the welds --- their stoves are less than 5 years old. I don't believe that many of the new non-gasification brands have improved in terms of design or burn efficiency.
For a conventional boiler, the BL28-40 seems like the more efficient design among the stoves I have researched. I live in Canada, and toured the P&M factory in Piney, Manitoba last spring. I was impressed with the overall quality of their stoves, particularly this model.
I currently own a Central Boiler CL-17 that sprung a leak this past winter for the first time in 20 years. Although I have considered buying another CB, I have a couple of friends who have had serious problems with water leaking from the welds --- their stoves are less than 5 years old. I don't believe that many of the new non-gasification brands have improved in terms of design or burn efficiency.
For a conventional boiler, the BL28-40 seems like the more efficient design among the stoves I have researched. I live in Canada, and toured the P&M factory in Piney, Manitoba last spring. I was impressed with the overall quality of their stoves, particularly this model.
Pages: [1]