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1

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: What type of spray foam?

« on: June 10, 2015, 08:34:06 AM »

I've been looking at the same thing. Closed cell is def the way to go however can you get closed cell to install yourself somewhere? Seem like the DOW Froth Pak's are 200sqft of 1" thick and are $300! Are they even closed cell? Seems like 3" of spray foam could cost you $600+ to insulate...?

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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Aquatherm 340 - General knowledge and questions...

« on: June 10, 2015, 08:24:45 AM »

Ok so we were going to install a OWB to run both the house and my shop. Well I didn't think about the $5K in pex I would need to cover the 500' run between the two buildings. Plus it's a steep hill between the house and shop. 30' rise or more I would say... No room by house for wood storage so I have to haul lots of wood up steep hill during winter. So after getting a Central 6048 used for a good price it sat due to lack of funds for pex.

After several very lengthy discussions with the wife, we are thinking it would be better for two smaller (cheaper) boilers. One in garage of house (prevents freezing during winter vacations, and wife more likely to help me fill it if inside during winter), and one down by shop. This also allows us to use the LP heat when it's cheap, lug wood in smaller quantities up the hill, and only fill the house boiler when we want to cut heat costs. I found a small older 30 gal IWB for the shop last fall (installed currently). It did pretty well  filling 2 times a day to keep it 60* but I don't know the manufacture so don't have a UL listing number for it for the insurance company. Not a big deal for the shop boiler but can't put it in the house without UL. I want the shop floor space back and to keep the mess and smoke outside so I found an older 200gal OWB to heat the shop.

So if you followed all this... I have a CHEAP 200gal OWB for shop and 30gal IWB I can't use in the house without UL listing code (from my understanding).

So I just located a Aquatherm 340 that I think would be a decent unit for the house. I think it's bigger and possibly newer than my 30gal IWB. I can't seem to find much information on the Aquatherms. Reliability, solid construction?, good unit? Just kinda looking for someone to clue me in on these.

Thanks!
Nathan

pics below are the little 30 gal IWB that I have no information on if anyone recognizes it. It's currently set up to be atmospheric (not pressurized), and with glycol to prevent freezing when i don't get down there for a week or two...

     

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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Reviving an old Dahl Wood boiler, How to???

« on: May 20, 2015, 09:41:40 AM »

pic2

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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Reviving an old Dahl Wood boiler, How to???

« on: May 20, 2015, 09:41:13 AM »

pic1

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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Reviving an old Dahl Wood boiler, How to???

« on: May 20, 2015, 09:35:48 AM »

Ok so I am always on the look out for cheap ways to upgrade my shop... I found an small (30gal) old IWB last summer and installed it inside my shop. Since then I decided that I want something bigger than will heat on 1 charge/day or less and would be outside the shop so I can keep the smoke out and the floor space open.

Shop is 24'x36' = 864 sqft with R5(ish) insulation.

Found a 230 gal Dahl boiler locally for $150. Panels have been taken off and it was already unhooked. No pump and only the front and rear tin panels. I was skeptical at first since it handn't been run in 8+ years. However, we filled it with a garden hose to the top with no leaks anywhere outside or inside!

So there is still quite a bit of sediment and corrosion inside the boiler from sitting. I plan on putting a sediment trap on before the pump but am wondering if I need to flush the entire system with a chemical of some sort to help remove some of it???

This is a cheap project so if it holds up for 2-3 winters I'll be happy. Pics to come... maybe

 

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Plumbing / Re: Plate exchanger with recirculation pump?

« on: May 15, 2014, 08:20:53 PM »

I'm actually getting a mixing valve and copper side arm with a used central 6048. If the side arm can't keep up I will add a plate exchanger later.

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Plumbing / Plate exchanger with recirculation pump?

« on: May 15, 2014, 07:55:43 PM »

Has anyone tried putting a thermostatically controlled recirculation pump in with a plate exchanger? I guess the idea was to have instant hot water with the added ability to keep the tank water hot. I honestly think the plate exchanger will keep us hot without much trouble but just curious if anyone has tried to do this... Would seem like the best of both worlds...

8

Equipment / Re: Anyone run Efco chainsaw?

« on: March 18, 2014, 06:56:28 AM »

NO!! I don't want another Stihl, lol! This one will be gone soon. Haven't touched it since probably early September. Glad to hear the grease thing is working for you. Hopefully that little Efco works out, can't beat the price you got it for! I was just at the hardware yesterday, got talking with the owner about them again, he says they seem to be holding up, very little repair issues coming back.

 Nstueve, I did look that up I guess it is lighter than I thought. For some reason I was thinking it was closer to the 64. I was wondering if the 61 was going to usher in a new line for epa and strato etc etc. I would like to see them come back with a big gun again, 100cc or so would be nice. Then I can go mess with my cousin and chase his 066 around the woods, lol. Why do you need a blue 6100 shipped from overseas? I thought Bailey's had them available? If not, I'd almost ask 7, I bet he'd help you.

That's hilarious about the huge flippy cap stock pile! I've thought for years they were just doing it for profit. If Stihl makes a dollar profit off each one, and I'm sure its more, pretty good pocket dipper they got there.

Yea I can look up just about anything I want pertaining to chainsaws. I work on them on the weekends and know my stuff inside and out pretty well.

I have a thing for "Blue" chainsaws. I have a small collection of Maktia Chainsaws b/c it's something that other saw collectors don't really care about, and they are new enough you can use them to cut as well as look at on the shop self. The 6100 Dolmar is currently under the knife and getting ported by another sawhawgz.com member who in infamous for good chainsaw modifications. We'll see what he can do with it. You should go sign up in Sawhawgz.com and watch/read along.

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Equipment / Re: a word on chain sharpening....

« on: January 28, 2014, 08:52:58 AM »

Just an outside prospective.

I have 3 grinders: 511a, 511ax, and a Silvey RazorsharpII with a custom swing arm (square grinder).

I will true a chain if its had the dirt nap to many times or hit the fence wire. But I carry a simiple husky clam guide that costs less than $20 at the local farm store. It includes 2 round files, 1 flat, 1 handle, and 1 guide. They are so simple to use even the worst hand sharpener can get by with 4-6 touch ups before needing a grind.

Honestly all you need is consistency. The same number of even file strokes on both sides. If you touch one up 3-4 times and want to check; you can measure with a digital caliper ($10 at any auto store or harbor freight) to make sure your tooth length is the same. Even if tooth length is off significantly it will only make you hook your cut to the side when bucking. The only other thing you really need is a decent raker guage to check and file the rakers.

I can't count how many of those husky guide sets i've sold but after teaching a guy for 5mins he can now sharpen on his own without depending on grinder time. Don't give away the fish, teach the guy to fish for himself.   

10

Equipment / Re: Stihl MS270C

« on: January 28, 2014, 08:41:03 AM »

MS270 and MS280

Both were made with a cable and buffer suspension system that was too soft. The extra flex has torn lots of the intake boots. I've done a couple dozen of them already out of my shop.

And not to piss in anyone's cheerio's here but the power to weight ratio is pretty bad on these saws. I can pick up my dolmar at 12.5lbs (0.2 heavier than 270/280) and it's 64cc and will run a 24in bar. Not to mention I can throw a 84cc big bore kit on it to run a 32in bar if I ever wanted to. Just sayin... If you want a small and light limber I would check out the Redmax series designed and powered by Zenoah/Komatsu out of japan. Some of the absolute best little limbers I've seen stock!

11

Equipment / Re: Stihl MS 271

« on: January 28, 2014, 08:00:23 AM »

how much are you looking to spend?

Not to bash on Stihl but there are better saws out there. I'm in a saws shop that doesn't run any dealer licences...

The absolute best bang for your buck is actually a redmax 3800/4000/4500. Their engines are bullet proof (made in Japan).

Way better power to weight ratio than the ms271 by far.
 
Stihl 271 - $440+ tax
50cc
12.3 lbs

Redmax 4500 - $250-$300 off ebay
44cc
9.6lbs

If you want interchangeable bars, I'd look for a Stihl 026/260 thats been rebuilt or low hour. $275-$325 (ish)

12

Equipment / Re: chain saw bars

« on: January 28, 2014, 07:46:32 AM »

I don't want to sound like I know a whole heck of a lot either but when the post starts out: "I had a shop put a new bar on", I have to figure that person is just starting out.

nah... I have plenty of cutters and tree service guys that want their saw fixed, with bar and chain on and sharpened so they can go strait to wood after they leave.

13

Equipment / Re: chain saw bars

« on: January 28, 2014, 06:55:04 AM »

if it's a big problem take it back to shop and have them install a tip kick back guard

no offense but if you need a tip guard... that's kinda like training wheels. I'd put one of those on for my 12-14 y/o nephews... If you are a grown adult you should read the manual and learn to use the saw or not use it at all.

I got my big boy saw  10 years ago 

Hey don't get me wrong at all... If your a novice that's fine we all have to start somewhere. I've been running a saw for close to 15years now. Cuttting and using a saw correctly is second nature to me now but I still get pinched and have kick backs every now and then.

OP,
Let us know if any of the info we've provided has been helpful. Specs on the both bars and chains and even a pic of both chains would be good to determine the problem. I certainly want to help you sort it all out!

Cheers
Nate

14

Equipment / Re: Anyone run Efco chainsaw?

« on: January 28, 2014, 06:44:52 AM »

Speed, the grease trick on the filter seems to work.  But the crappy flippy oil fill cap on my Stihl 210 broke again.  I put my last spare on (I think I bought 4 of them 2-3 years ago) and tried buying another replacement to keep in my stock when in town today and they are sold out at the shop.  If the Efco holds up, I may just get rid of the 210!   Do you need it for parts or to keep its twin that you own, company on your shelf of shame for abandoned saws?

That's about the biggest complaint I've heard on the newer stihl's is breaking the flippy caps. I walked into my dealer the other day to get a couple and asked how many he had in stock. He motioned me to come to the back and showed me a 2'long x 3'wide x 1.5'deep... It was divided into 2 compartments for the two different common size caps. It was heaped to the brim and he said they order 100 at a time... What does that tell you?

I'll be interested to hear more about the efco's and how they are holding up these days. I know another local shop near me picked them up...

15

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Help calculating Btu usage for Iowa...

« on: January 27, 2014, 12:44:36 PM »

check that...

Earth's chimney stacks are inserted 1/2 way down into the burn box.