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1
Fire Wood / Re: Looking for a recommendation for a supplier of a load of logs near Fenton, MI
« on: December 01, 2013, 09:28:17 PM »
I'm right next door in Howell, MI. I have been looking for a truck load of wood myself to get started with.
I emailed coxxs logging and got this reply: Freight is 4 hrs one way. 2 grand for 50 thousand lbs of wood. Ten cord .
we take pics of it. Before it leaves the yard. Fuel is killin us. Sorry. We normally get 1500 around here for approx 4 hrs of truckin
total. Just too costly. al
Which is about the only lead on a full truck load I have so far. If you have someone in this area you would recommend pm or post their information. I currently have 2 full and 2 split seasoned cords on hand but I want to add to that soon.
Thanks
I emailed coxxs logging and got this reply: Freight is 4 hrs one way. 2 grand for 50 thousand lbs of wood. Ten cord .
we take pics of it. Before it leaves the yard. Fuel is killin us. Sorry. We normally get 1500 around here for approx 4 hrs of truckin
total. Just too costly. al
Which is about the only lead on a full truck load I have so far. If you have someone in this area you would recommend pm or post their information. I currently have 2 full and 2 split seasoned cords on hand but I want to add to that soon.
Thanks
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Picking up the pieces...
« on: November 27, 2013, 02:46:27 PM »
Hello and Thank you to all that have helped me so far in my install. I have received a lot of information from you along my journey and without you I would still be trying to find a way to pay the contractor $7,000+ to install my owb.
Just few more questions...
So far I have:
Purchased an Earth Mountain Man 505 with 4 ports (set to arrive next week)
The first port, I am installing now:
So far I have installed:
The cement pad extra large for the furnace and a place to stand while filling.
70' (one way) of 1" logstor underground pipe. It's 60' in length with 4' down and 4' up in the trench. I have it enclosed in a 6" corrugated pipe with an insulated 3/4" fill line and a 10/3 underground cable for power. I then sealed the corrugated pipe with a 6mil plastic sleeve and double wrapped it with more plastic. I placed an empty perforated corrugated pipe with it in the ditch too hopefully to collect any water then surrounded them with sand before topping them off with dirt.
The barn I am servicing with the first run is 40'x40'x10'h on the first level and about the same on the second level. I am not installing any heat on the second floor but the floor/ceiling divider is not insulated so the heat will automatically be rising into that area. Inside the barn there is a 10'x40' room fully insulated which I am finishing off as a living area with full bath and kitchen as a place to sleep when I am building my house. The remaining 30'x40' area will be open for parking cars, tools, etc and is also insulated on the exterior walls. All the walls are 2x6 with spray foam insulation.
Today I went online and purchased a unit heater to heat the open parking area. I tried to shop around for a unit heater with a squirrel cage but nothing pre assembled jumped out at me.I ended up on taking a suggestion from this site and went on ebay and purchased a unit from freeheat4u. I was going to purchase the middle of the 3 units but then at the last minute decided go big or go home and bought the 200,000 btu unit that I don't really need since I will probably keep this area at 50f but I guess its nice to have in the event I want to crank it up when i am working out there?
Since the logstor came with 1" fittings and the unit heater has 1" fittings I think its safe to assume I am going to run 1" pex to the unit, depending on the route I am going to take I am guessing this will be a run of about 85' one way which will be my longest run but not my only run. First I am going to go from the 1" logstor into a distributor so I can have the 1" loop to the unit heater, a ?" loop to a plate exchanger for dhw, and a ?" loop through the finished area of the barn where I plan to add radiators to keep the heat regulated at about 65/70f (this is my main concern since ALL of the plumbing is in the finished area).
With all that said. I have a 70' run of exterior logstor and a 85' run of interior pex as my longest run. Doubled for the return gives me a total run of 155x2= 310'.
I do not have a pump on my owb. Since I will have a plate exchanger for my dhw that I want to keep looped continuously for on demand hot water. What brand and size pump do you recommend? I was advised to consider a taco 2400-20wb before but a few things have changed since then and I have more accurate numbers on my pipe lengths. The manufacture only had 2 pumps available both Honeywell's they just asked small or large lol I went with neither since I can probably install a nicer pump at a cheaper cost once I figure out what I am doing. (I have been reading just the head and pressure gets a bit confusing)
Anyway, this site hasn't steered me wrong yet so I'm throwing it out there once again and asking for suggestions on pump sizing and layout options. Yes, I do have previous suggestion which I am taking in as a factor but as you know, as things change in the install process, what was once good may not be best now...
thanks in advance
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
Just few more questions...
So far I have:
Purchased an Earth Mountain Man 505 with 4 ports (set to arrive next week)
The first port, I am installing now:
So far I have installed:
The cement pad extra large for the furnace and a place to stand while filling.
70' (one way) of 1" logstor underground pipe. It's 60' in length with 4' down and 4' up in the trench. I have it enclosed in a 6" corrugated pipe with an insulated 3/4" fill line and a 10/3 underground cable for power. I then sealed the corrugated pipe with a 6mil plastic sleeve and double wrapped it with more plastic. I placed an empty perforated corrugated pipe with it in the ditch too hopefully to collect any water then surrounded them with sand before topping them off with dirt.
The barn I am servicing with the first run is 40'x40'x10'h on the first level and about the same on the second level. I am not installing any heat on the second floor but the floor/ceiling divider is not insulated so the heat will automatically be rising into that area. Inside the barn there is a 10'x40' room fully insulated which I am finishing off as a living area with full bath and kitchen as a place to sleep when I am building my house. The remaining 30'x40' area will be open for parking cars, tools, etc and is also insulated on the exterior walls. All the walls are 2x6 with spray foam insulation.
Today I went online and purchased a unit heater to heat the open parking area. I tried to shop around for a unit heater with a squirrel cage but nothing pre assembled jumped out at me.I ended up on taking a suggestion from this site and went on ebay and purchased a unit from freeheat4u. I was going to purchase the middle of the 3 units but then at the last minute decided go big or go home and bought the 200,000 btu unit that I don't really need since I will probably keep this area at 50f but I guess its nice to have in the event I want to crank it up when i am working out there?
Since the logstor came with 1" fittings and the unit heater has 1" fittings I think its safe to assume I am going to run 1" pex to the unit, depending on the route I am going to take I am guessing this will be a run of about 85' one way which will be my longest run but not my only run. First I am going to go from the 1" logstor into a distributor so I can have the 1" loop to the unit heater, a ?" loop to a plate exchanger for dhw, and a ?" loop through the finished area of the barn where I plan to add radiators to keep the heat regulated at about 65/70f (this is my main concern since ALL of the plumbing is in the finished area).
With all that said. I have a 70' run of exterior logstor and a 85' run of interior pex as my longest run. Doubled for the return gives me a total run of 155x2= 310'.
I do not have a pump on my owb. Since I will have a plate exchanger for my dhw that I want to keep looped continuously for on demand hot water. What brand and size pump do you recommend? I was advised to consider a taco 2400-20wb before but a few things have changed since then and I have more accurate numbers on my pipe lengths. The manufacture only had 2 pumps available both Honeywell's they just asked small or large lol I went with neither since I can probably install a nicer pump at a cheaper cost once I figure out what I am doing. (I have been reading just the head and pressure gets a bit confusing)
Anyway, this site hasn't steered me wrong yet so I'm throwing it out there once again and asking for suggestions on pump sizing and layout options. Yes, I do have previous suggestion which I am taking in as a factor but as you know, as things change in the install process, what was once good may not be best now...
thanks in advance
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: designing my system... education and experiences are welcomed and appreciated
« on: November 26, 2013, 10:09:29 PM »
Last weekend I had a 4' deep ditch dug and installed my pipe from the cement pad to my barn.
I took the dual 1" logstor pipe, an insulated 3/4 pex fill line, 10/3 w ground underground cable and put it inside of a 6" solid corrugated pipe. I then slid the 6" pipe inside of a 6mil plastic sleeve to seal out the water.
I dropped it in the ditch, laid another empty 6" perforated pipe along side it and back filled it with about 8-10" of sand followed by dirt hoping the water will find its way to the empty pipe first.
My thought is I will have enough wire to run 2 circuits for pumps. I will have an exterior fill line and hose bib off the 3/4 line and the dual 1" for supply and return to my owb.
I took pictures I will get them up soon.
I heard from Earth today and my unit ships next week. So now I have to find a means of unloading the box from a semi trailer, any suggestions? My neighbors tractor can't handle the weight.
I took the dual 1" logstor pipe, an insulated 3/4 pex fill line, 10/3 w ground underground cable and put it inside of a 6" solid corrugated pipe. I then slid the 6" pipe inside of a 6mil plastic sleeve to seal out the water.
I dropped it in the ditch, laid another empty 6" perforated pipe along side it and back filled it with about 8-10" of sand followed by dirt hoping the water will find its way to the empty pipe first.
My thought is I will have enough wire to run 2 circuits for pumps. I will have an exterior fill line and hose bib off the 3/4 line and the dual 1" for supply and return to my owb.
I took pictures I will get them up soon.
I heard from Earth today and my unit ships next week. So now I have to find a means of unloading the box from a semi trailer, any suggestions? My neighbors tractor can't handle the weight.
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: unit heater suggestions???
« on: November 25, 2013, 09:00:25 PM »
nice set up you got there... how loud is the fan?
5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / unit heater suggestions???
« on: November 24, 2013, 10:26:37 PM »
I just wanted to get some advice from others on which unit heater they recommend. So far I have gained a lot of knowledge by asking simple questions on this site so I figure why not.
The unit heater is going to be hung in my 40x30x10h barn with good insulation near central Michigan. I planned on a 75,000 btu unit but I am not set on it. Just the same I was looking into a hot dawg h20 or dragon breath but after reading (on here) that they are noisier then units with a squirrel cage I though I might go with something quieter incase I get booted out of the house I have somewhere quiet to sleep lol.
Also, I am not one to hunt parts down and reassemble them. Id rather open a box and install it as is. So the unit on freeheat4u.com site seems okay?
What are your thoughts?
Thanks
The unit heater is going to be hung in my 40x30x10h barn with good insulation near central Michigan. I planned on a 75,000 btu unit but I am not set on it. Just the same I was looking into a hot dawg h20 or dragon breath but after reading (on here) that they are noisier then units with a squirrel cage I though I might go with something quieter incase I get booted out of the house I have somewhere quiet to sleep lol.
Also, I am not one to hunt parts down and reassemble them. Id rather open a box and install it as is. So the unit on freeheat4u.com site seems okay?
What are your thoughts?
Thanks
6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I'm going on vacation
« on: November 08, 2013, 09:14:58 PM »
could you plumb an electric tankless water heater in so that in the event the water temp drops below the set temp it would fire to keep the water in your system from freezing?
can't imagine it would draw much more power then multiple space heaters, it would also keep whatever your heating from freezing?
can't imagine it would draw much more power then multiple space heaters, it would also keep whatever your heating from freezing?
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: designing my system... education and experiences are welcomed and appreciated
« on: November 08, 2013, 09:05:06 PM »
Today I poured my owb slab, I made it 5'x10' with a 2'x2' cavity to run my pipe through. I was going to sleeve it but just as I was prepping to go buy the pvc the concrete truck called and gave me the en route notice.
I got bids on the concrete ranging from $1,000 cash to $1,500. Outrageous, a little elbow grease, scrap wood, few pieces of re-bar and $190 to have a yard of concrete delivered and it's good to go.
I also ordered wood - seasoned mix. I got 2 cords split and 3 cords whole, delivered and stacked for $200. Hopefully I can begin harvesting free wood and allowing it to season for myself now.
The official measurement from the corner of my barn to the corner of my slab is 60' so I'm figuring 75' of outdoor piping will do just fine.
I talked to the only logstor dealer around here. He laughed and said nobody around here ever buys bigger then 1", just not practical. He can get it but it will be expensive, the fittings will be expensive and it will be a waste of money for the added 0.0?
increase in pipe.
I also talked to a wood master stove rep, took him weeks to call me back, said he was busy lol. I told him I bought another stove and he got mad but offered his services in install supply at the cheapest rates I will find? Went on to talk about everybody spending their money on logstor only for it to become brittle after a few years. He will show me pieces that the lex pulls right out because the lex expanded and contracted squishing the foam. Said his 3 wrap will do the job, he can get me 5 wrap but will have to order more for the 75' I need?
What do you guys think about his logstor comment, possible or b.s.?
I got bids on the concrete ranging from $1,000 cash to $1,500. Outrageous, a little elbow grease, scrap wood, few pieces of re-bar and $190 to have a yard of concrete delivered and it's good to go.
I also ordered wood - seasoned mix. I got 2 cords split and 3 cords whole, delivered and stacked for $200. Hopefully I can begin harvesting free wood and allowing it to season for myself now.
The official measurement from the corner of my barn to the corner of my slab is 60' so I'm figuring 75' of outdoor piping will do just fine.
I talked to the only logstor dealer around here. He laughed and said nobody around here ever buys bigger then 1", just not practical. He can get it but it will be expensive, the fittings will be expensive and it will be a waste of money for the added 0.0?
increase in pipe. I also talked to a wood master stove rep, took him weeks to call me back, said he was busy lol. I told him I bought another stove and he got mad but offered his services in install supply at the cheapest rates I will find? Went on to talk about everybody spending their money on logstor only for it to become brittle after a few years. He will show me pieces that the lex pulls right out because the lex expanded and contracted squishing the foam. Said his 3 wrap will do the job, he can get me 5 wrap but will have to order more for the 75' I need?
What do you guys think about his logstor comment, possible or b.s.?
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: designing my system... education and experiences are welcomed and appreciated
« on: November 05, 2013, 08:28:15 PM »
I had originally planned on filling with a 'T' from inside my home when I was going to go with brand x.
When I elected to go with the Earth unit things changed when I saw the video demonstrating how the 1/2" line fed into the rear of the unit - then once a day, you pull the handle on the front of the unit till water spews out, shut it off, then its good to go?
earth actually sells an underground pipe with (2) 1" pex, (1) 1/2" pex and electrical but a little research on it told me to keep shopping plus my local inspectors won't let the water & electric run together
But like RSI pointed out, its above ground, if the temp in the boiler drops thats prone to freeze? I don't like that either...
This forum just saved me future $ and time...
I like the solenoid valve idea, bit over my head right now till i do a little research, i can't see the boiler from inside the barn so i have no idea when it would be full, id rather hit the switch on the outside and monitor the fill...
what kind of solenoid/wiring option do you recommend... i am set on the logstor piping now and like i read will either change it to a 1 1/4" standard pex inside or run the pex-al-pex for the same size fittings
with a 350' loop what size and brand pump do you recommend?
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
When I elected to go with the Earth unit things changed when I saw the video demonstrating how the 1/2" line fed into the rear of the unit - then once a day, you pull the handle on the front of the unit till water spews out, shut it off, then its good to go?
earth actually sells an underground pipe with (2) 1" pex, (1) 1/2" pex and electrical but a little research on it told me to keep shopping plus my local inspectors won't let the water & electric run together
But like RSI pointed out, its above ground, if the temp in the boiler drops thats prone to freeze? I don't like that either...
This forum just saved me future $ and time...
I like the solenoid valve idea, bit over my head right now till i do a little research, i can't see the boiler from inside the barn so i have no idea when it would be full, id rather hit the switch on the outside and monitor the fill...
what kind of solenoid/wiring option do you recommend... i am set on the logstor piping now and like i read will either change it to a 1 1/4" standard pex inside or run the pex-al-pex for the same size fittings
with a 350' loop what size and brand pump do you recommend?
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: designing my system... education and experiences are welcomed and appreciated
« on: November 05, 2013, 06:02:19 PM »
also, if I pay the extra $ for logstar 2 line pipe, how should I run my 1/2" water supply line? I would prefer it be in the jacket to keep it from freezing?
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: designing my system... education and experiences are welcomed and appreciated
« on: November 05, 2013, 05:54:13 PM »
from owb to point of entry on my barn... I have not seen 1 1/4 in the underground insulated jacket?
I talked to a local logstor rep whom stated he has the 2 pipe logstor in any length, pickup only, for 12.95 a foot.
or
Badger has a 1"/1"/3/4"/3/4" 5 wrap for 7.25 a foot, free delivery
I am not trying to go cheap, I would rather spend once than twice, I just don't want to waste money... if I only have 1" from owb to barn does it make since to step it up to 1 1/4" once inside or should i keep looking for 1 1/4" insulated underground?
I talked to a local logstor rep whom stated he has the 2 pipe logstor in any length, pickup only, for 12.95 a foot.
or
Badger has a 1"/1"/3/4"/3/4" 5 wrap for 7.25 a foot, free delivery
I am not trying to go cheap, I would rather spend once than twice, I just don't want to waste money... if I only have 1" from owb to barn does it make since to step it up to 1 1/4" once inside or should i keep looking for 1 1/4" insulated underground?
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / designing my system... education and experiences are welcomed and appreciated
« on: November 05, 2013, 01:17:35 PM »
Hello to all, I am looking for some feedback for designing my outdoor wood furnace system.
I recently began researching outdoor wood furnaces and through process of elimination ended up pulling the trigger on an Earth owb Mountain Man 505. It was a hard choice, found a lot of nice furnaces along the way but for my needs and budget this was the furnace for me.
I went through my local distributor who was helpful but I prefer a direct route. I don't like product that has changed hands several times that has incurred price mark ups along the way. I like saving money when I can and spending it where I need it.
I ordered my mountain man 505 with 4 (ports) outputs and 4 inputs, polar wrapped, etc. anything that could be factory done, I did... now I will take over from there. (The reason I didn't order the pumps or anything else is because I wanted to choose what I need, buy local (hopefully) from somewhere that when things hit the fan I know I can find a replacement part without delay?)
Also I had a competitor company come out. The price for their furnace was awesome but by the time they got done quoting my parts and install we went from $8,000 to $15,000. I know I can get parts and do the install myself for cheaper than $7,000. I even sent their estimate to other owb companies who were shocked on how high their quote was. This forced my decision to do it myself.
I attached a quick drawing on my thoughts so far...
I have the earth mountain man 505 plumbed with 4 output ports for:
1) serve my barn
2) serve my pool and spa (future use)
3) serve my home (future use)
4) spare
I plan on running 4 different loops, independent of each other
My first run... what I need for this winter
Tomorrow I am setting a 5'x10'x6" concrete foundation myself for ($190) then from the owb I need to run 60' underground to my barn.
I need 1" supply, 1" return, 1/2" water fill line, and electric in the ditch (code requirements say separate electric and water but my well has both???) either way, i contracted someone to dig the ditch 4' deep x 1' wide x 60' long, ($500) i will put the plumbing down one side and electric down the other then the local spray foam guy said he would spray foam around the pipe ($500), I am thinking logstor brand pipe but I would like all 3 water lines in one? Anyone know where I can find this stuff in south-east michigan?
From the feed into the barn I get a little confused. My barn is 40'x40' overall and two stories. The upper level I do not plan on heating, however I am going to insulate it and allow the heat from the open parking area to escape into it. The owb is my primary and only form of heat for the barn. I do have a backup electric toe kick heater in the utility closet to keep the essential plumbing from freezing but thats it. Inside the barn I have a finished off 10' x 40' area that I plan on residing in while I build my house. The entire barn first floor has 10' ceilings and constructed of 2"x6" with spray foam all the way around (not yet, but soon it will). All the doors are also insulated and windows were the best I could afford.
Once the 1" supply enters the barn, I want a temperature gauge, then I plan on installing a 'main' run through the barn walls ending in the south/west corner of the barn where I plan on placing a hanging heater at the end of the supply.
From the hanging heater, I am going to install a 'main' return line paralleling the supply back out to the owb.
My thoughts is having a pump circulating the main line 24/7 and branching off of the main line with the components?
the fist component will be a 20 or 30 plate heat exchanger with mixing valve plumbed in for domestic hot water, i currently have a tankless h2o tank, so plumbing will be a bit tricky, any advice?, i want to heat my water with my owb first then have my electric h2o heater as a backup
next components will be
6' baseboard heater
6' baseboard heater
15' baseboard heater
15' baseboard heater
installed around the inside of my living area, they will draw from the supply line and drain into the return line. I got advice from a pro that they should all be independently thermostated so that they cycle as needed to keep the heat even and reduce demand but I would prefer one thermostat, any advice?,
(I also think a water to air exchanger mounted elsewhere in the barn and ducted along the ceiling would be cheaper and easier to install then 4 baseboards... but what do i know, the pro told me to go baseboard because heat goes up?)
finally in the area designated for parking I want to install a large enough btu water to air wall hung unit to heat the 40x30x10 portion of the barn when I work on my cars, the rest of the time I will keep it at 50ish but having the ability to knock the chill out to change oil or brake pads would be awesome...
Im guessing the run from the owb through the barn and back with a +10% allowance will put me at a 350' loop. Any suggestions on a good pump?
also any advice and tips on what i should use, shouldn't use and what to run away from... i like shutoffs and isolation so when things go wrong its easier to fix, sharkbite connectors look great, i see 10' straight pipe at my local home depot which might save me from wrestling with a coil, any other tips?
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
I recently began researching outdoor wood furnaces and through process of elimination ended up pulling the trigger on an Earth owb Mountain Man 505. It was a hard choice, found a lot of nice furnaces along the way but for my needs and budget this was the furnace for me.
I went through my local distributor who was helpful but I prefer a direct route. I don't like product that has changed hands several times that has incurred price mark ups along the way. I like saving money when I can and spending it where I need it.
I ordered my mountain man 505 with 4 (ports) outputs and 4 inputs, polar wrapped, etc. anything that could be factory done, I did... now I will take over from there. (The reason I didn't order the pumps or anything else is because I wanted to choose what I need, buy local (hopefully) from somewhere that when things hit the fan I know I can find a replacement part without delay?)
Also I had a competitor company come out. The price for their furnace was awesome but by the time they got done quoting my parts and install we went from $8,000 to $15,000. I know I can get parts and do the install myself for cheaper than $7,000. I even sent their estimate to other owb companies who were shocked on how high their quote was. This forced my decision to do it myself.
I attached a quick drawing on my thoughts so far...
I have the earth mountain man 505 plumbed with 4 output ports for:
1) serve my barn
2) serve my pool and spa (future use)
3) serve my home (future use)
4) spare
I plan on running 4 different loops, independent of each other
My first run... what I need for this winter
Tomorrow I am setting a 5'x10'x6" concrete foundation myself for ($190) then from the owb I need to run 60' underground to my barn.
I need 1" supply, 1" return, 1/2" water fill line, and electric in the ditch (code requirements say separate electric and water but my well has both???) either way, i contracted someone to dig the ditch 4' deep x 1' wide x 60' long, ($500) i will put the plumbing down one side and electric down the other then the local spray foam guy said he would spray foam around the pipe ($500), I am thinking logstor brand pipe but I would like all 3 water lines in one? Anyone know where I can find this stuff in south-east michigan?
From the feed into the barn I get a little confused. My barn is 40'x40' overall and two stories. The upper level I do not plan on heating, however I am going to insulate it and allow the heat from the open parking area to escape into it. The owb is my primary and only form of heat for the barn. I do have a backup electric toe kick heater in the utility closet to keep the essential plumbing from freezing but thats it. Inside the barn I have a finished off 10' x 40' area that I plan on residing in while I build my house. The entire barn first floor has 10' ceilings and constructed of 2"x6" with spray foam all the way around (not yet, but soon it will). All the doors are also insulated and windows were the best I could afford.
Once the 1" supply enters the barn, I want a temperature gauge, then I plan on installing a 'main' run through the barn walls ending in the south/west corner of the barn where I plan on placing a hanging heater at the end of the supply.
From the hanging heater, I am going to install a 'main' return line paralleling the supply back out to the owb.
My thoughts is having a pump circulating the main line 24/7 and branching off of the main line with the components?
the fist component will be a 20 or 30 plate heat exchanger with mixing valve plumbed in for domestic hot water, i currently have a tankless h2o tank, so plumbing will be a bit tricky, any advice?, i want to heat my water with my owb first then have my electric h2o heater as a backup
next components will be
6' baseboard heater
6' baseboard heater
15' baseboard heater
15' baseboard heater
installed around the inside of my living area, they will draw from the supply line and drain into the return line. I got advice from a pro that they should all be independently thermostated so that they cycle as needed to keep the heat even and reduce demand but I would prefer one thermostat, any advice?,
(I also think a water to air exchanger mounted elsewhere in the barn and ducted along the ceiling would be cheaper and easier to install then 4 baseboards... but what do i know, the pro told me to go baseboard because heat goes up?)
finally in the area designated for parking I want to install a large enough btu water to air wall hung unit to heat the 40x30x10 portion of the barn when I work on my cars, the rest of the time I will keep it at 50ish but having the ability to knock the chill out to change oil or brake pads would be awesome...
Im guessing the run from the owb through the barn and back with a +10% allowance will put me at a 350' loop. Any suggestions on a good pump?
also any advice and tips on what i should use, shouldn't use and what to run away from... i like shutoffs and isolation so when things go wrong its easier to fix, sharkbite connectors look great, i see 10' straight pipe at my local home depot which might save me from wrestling with a coil, any other tips?
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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