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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Owf test and tune
« on: March 14, 2014, 06:42:20 AM »
slimjim, "breach of the boiler"? you mean closest to where the gasses are coming out of the fire box? I can take the flue cleanout cover off and check their. thank you all for the replies.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Owf test and tune
« on: March 13, 2014, 05:11:16 PM »
That is a good point rsi. I did manage to burn 90% of the creosote off the fire box today. Is their a good range for stack temps? Wouldn't keeping the stack hotter clean up some of the creosote problems in the flue? Does that only apply to a straight flue? thank you for the replies.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Owf test and tune
« on: March 13, 2014, 11:00:26 AM »
top of the stack flush with the top aiming down into the pipe. the hair dryer on high was 10 min for 1 degree raise. shop vac is still 1 min for 1 degree. which stack temp range is ideal for a good burn?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Owf test and tune
« on: March 13, 2014, 10:15:55 AM »
Ok tried the hair dryer the stack temps the gasses are
natural draft 160-190
hair dryer 250-285
shop vac 340-380 degrees mostly coals left in the fire box so zero smoke.
natural draft
shop vac
natural draft 160-190
hair dryer 250-285
shop vac 340-380 degrees mostly coals left in the fire box so zero smoke.
natural draft
shop vac
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Owf test and tune
« on: March 13, 2014, 09:48:32 AM »
mlappin do you mean the actual gas temp or the outside of the flue? my flue is uninsulated and have had to clean it 2 times already it plugs with creosote junk at the last 90. I thought that most blowers were in that range too. thank you for the info.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Owf test and tune
« on: March 13, 2014, 09:24:49 AM »
I had some time so I figured I would do an experiment with my wood burner it is a home made unit just installed it in dec. The stove hasn't had any major issues but I can Never leave "Good enough alone".
Against my better judgement I made the stove natural draft, blah. It has worked ok and heated my house 950sf of barly insulated 10 ft ceiling 1900's house to a nice cozy 72 degrees all winter. But, when I turn on the fan to my 24x40 garage I can watch the temp drop and never catch up until I turn the fan off.
As many have had a rough winter, here in south central MI it was mid 40"s the other day the stove went 28 hr on a fill but today it was 0 -1 during my test
ok the "test" my set points are 170 on 179 off natural draft takes 90 min on average to reach 179
with the 0 temp outside I turned the fan on in the garage with the furnace on in the house the stove drops 1 degree every 1.5 min so it cycles quite often,
so I took my shop vac supposed to be 312 cfm not sure if that is the same number positive pressure vs negative, once the damper door opened I shoved the positive pressure side in the opening and turned it on.
with both loads running it took 5 min to raise 1 dgree water temp with both loads off 1 dgree a minute just over 30 minutes from 170 to 179 stove holds just over 300 gallons of water
so with a blower the cycle times are roughly 1/3 the time, what would that mean for wood usage? I just wanted to share my findings and see if that is some what normal
now some pictures
normal idle
just after damper opened
just after blower installed
10 min after blower installed
mostly coals in the stove except for the lagre round arter 12 hour over night burn except for the large round put that in in the am
wondering what size blower I should install and can I just tap into the solenoid wires and run that off the ranco aquastat?
thank you for the help getting me to this point
Against my better judgement I made the stove natural draft, blah. It has worked ok and heated my house 950sf of barly insulated 10 ft ceiling 1900's house to a nice cozy 72 degrees all winter. But, when I turn on the fan to my 24x40 garage I can watch the temp drop and never catch up until I turn the fan off.
As many have had a rough winter, here in south central MI it was mid 40"s the other day the stove went 28 hr on a fill but today it was 0 -1 during my test
ok the "test" my set points are 170 on 179 off natural draft takes 90 min on average to reach 179
with the 0 temp outside I turned the fan on in the garage with the furnace on in the house the stove drops 1 degree every 1.5 min so it cycles quite often,
so I took my shop vac supposed to be 312 cfm not sure if that is the same number positive pressure vs negative, once the damper door opened I shoved the positive pressure side in the opening and turned it on.
with both loads running it took 5 min to raise 1 dgree water temp with both loads off 1 dgree a minute just over 30 minutes from 170 to 179 stove holds just over 300 gallons of water
so with a blower the cycle times are roughly 1/3 the time, what would that mean for wood usage? I just wanted to share my findings and see if that is some what normal
now some pictures
normal idle
just after damper opened
just after blower installed
10 min after blower installed
mostly coals in the stove except for the lagre round arter 12 hour over night burn except for the large round put that in in the am
wondering what size blower I should install and can I just tap into the solenoid wires and run that off the ranco aquastat?
thank you for the help getting me to this point
7
Equipment / Re: Fiskars Axe
« on: March 11, 2014, 03:45:43 PM »
I bought a x27 back in December, it has split 90% of the wood ive cut. The other 10% is still in a pile. Most of my pieces are 30" long, goes right through most pieces 1-3 hits many in a couple years I will get around to building a inertia splitter but at 23 I still fell pretty good swinging a maul.
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Help me design my new conventional boiler
« on: March 09, 2014, 06:15:58 PM »
I had planned on having a door on the front for the heat exchanger. I want to use some kind of brick/refractory on the lower half of the fire box. Probably just below half way. Will the water jacket on the bottom cause condensation problems behind the bricks? I think I am just going to do one large water filled baffle at the rear, Probably 3x12. thank you for the replies
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Help me design my new conventional boiler
« on: March 08, 2014, 05:07:11 PM »
Slim, do you think the extra transfer would be worth it? My plan was to set the firebox on the mill and mill slots 4" deep and use 2x4 1/4" tube and use a 2x12 for the large heat baffle.
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Help me design my new conventional boiler
« on: March 08, 2014, 03:29:36 PM »
Easy little square is 2'' if you are wondering any other measurement.
I drew up some plans for the new boiler. Let me know what you think? It will be a little over 400 gallons if I make a square water jacket. Is that too much water for the fire box size? Thank you Joe.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Help me design my new conventional boiler
« on: March 06, 2014, 07:55:04 AM »
The grates should help a lot, with air coming up from under the fire should burn hotter and more efficient.
Scott, why 3/16 over 1/8? is it a longevity thing or durability for holding the weight? just wondering? my current boiler has 1/4" waterjacket it is way overkill and a lot more expensive.
It appears the p&m bl series doesn't have water around the bottom of the stove? Does anybody know why? Is it just to keep temps up and the bricks hot?
Any opinions on tubes across the top of the fire box? I also like the idea of a water filled baffle at the rear of the fire box to keep smoke and gasses burning longer.
Thank you for the input.
Scott, why 3/16 over 1/8? is it a longevity thing or durability for holding the weight? just wondering? my current boiler has 1/4" waterjacket it is way overkill and a lot more expensive.
It appears the p&m bl series doesn't have water around the bottom of the stove? Does anybody know why? Is it just to keep temps up and the bricks hot?
Any opinions on tubes across the top of the fire box? I also like the idea of a water filled baffle at the rear of the fire box to keep smoke and gasses burning longer.
Thank you for the input.
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Help me design my new conventional boiler
« on: March 05, 2014, 09:37:53 PM »
Ok, I just built and installed my first boiler, as seen in the "homemade" section. It has been working ok all winter but it has a few minor problems, and I had so much fun building this boiler I just want to make a new upgraded version.
basic ideas for the new build, feel free to ad input,
48" of 37" id propane tank flat on both ends, no stupid dome
8x8 or 10x10 ash pan welded to the bottom of the fire box, that will allow the whole diameter to be filled with wood flat grates on the bottom
forced draft under the grates and above
some sort of hx with the flue, similar to portage & main ml36 start at the rear gases come to the front then travel to the rear then out the flue 8" dia.
undecided on tubes through the top of the fire box for extra heat transfer
waterjacket will be 1/8" square with braces on the walls.
Looking for some advise. thank you
basic ideas for the new build, feel free to ad input,
48" of 37" id propane tank flat on both ends, no stupid dome
8x8 or 10x10 ash pan welded to the bottom of the fire box, that will allow the whole diameter to be filled with wood flat grates on the bottom
forced draft under the grates and above
some sort of hx with the flue, similar to portage & main ml36 start at the rear gases come to the front then travel to the rear then out the flue 8" dia.
undecided on tubes through the top of the fire box for extra heat transfer
waterjacket will be 1/8" square with braces on the walls.
Looking for some advise. thank you
13
Home Made / Re: Draw the water off the top or bottom?
« on: January 29, 2014, 08:57:39 AM »
On my homemade unit. I pull from the middle. And return at the top. My return lines run 40 inches into the tank. Had a little boil over and lost over 60 gallons of water,but the pumps were still submerged. If it was the other way I probably would have lost both of my pumps.
14
Home Made / Re: First wood boiler build
« on: December 18, 2013, 08:06:30 PM »
Thank you for the compliments. This is my first major fab project. I have made bumper and brackets for my trucks, but never a project like this. Now I have to get my wood pile built up. I think I have a good pile started then I fill the stove. Lol.
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: natural draft question
« on: December 17, 2013, 07:12:29 PM »
Thanks for the pic. The way my grate is set up it does the same thing as yours pulls the air down below the coals I have taken the louvered door and added some height on the flue it seemed to help alot. I mat just cut the louvers off and just leave the top piece to cover the solenoid.
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