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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Adding anti-corrosive to boiler causes things to plug.....
« on: November 19, 2014, 08:31:30 AM »
We have some ugly water here with LOTS of iron and calcium. When the salt level gets low it's only a matter of days when you can start to see orange on things. The water replacement was not always by choice either, we had a couple of leaks and had to add water; I hope to have all of those buttoned up now.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Adding anti-corrosive to boiler causes things to plug.....
« on: November 18, 2014, 09:56:57 PM »
We're in the season where I need it to be running, but it's suppose to be 50 this weekend, so I could shut it down. Maybe run a strong muratic acid to take the rust out? If it is going to flake and plug things up all winter, then maybe this is the way to go............. Could you run some CLR? Iron out?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: if you're going to sell the boilers take care of the customer
« on: November 18, 2014, 09:40:55 PM »
Been there, my dealer was a moron. He did the company a disservice by selling for them. I'm glad you took care of the problem for the customer.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Temp and effiecency!
« on: November 18, 2014, 08:46:32 PM »
I ran mine at 150 for one year and would never do it again. Someone told me that you use less wood because it takes less energy to keep the water at a lower temperature. What I ended up with is a cool house when temperatures were single digits and the heat pumps/fans ran all the time. Plus, I had this tar like creosote that I had to scrape out of my stove. I ran it like that for 3 months, finally I cranked it back to 180 and my problems went away. No more tar and pumps ran less; I didn't notice a change of the amount of wood I was burning.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Adding anti-corrosive to boiler causes things to plug.....
« on: November 18, 2014, 08:33:20 PM »
It's called Corquest 1200. I get it from altheatsupply.com
So the anti-corrosive bonds to the iron in the water? Oh man, this could be a major problem...........
As I stated before, my dealer didn't do anything but drop the stove off in my yard, so the first 3 years it didn't have any anti-corrosive in it because I didn't know it needed it. BUT, I did empty the water out every spring and replace it in the fall. I pulled the plugs and peered inside this fall and there is a fair amount of rusty sediment in the bottom of the stove. Does this mean I will have flakes until all the rust is absorbed?
So the anti-corrosive bonds to the iron in the water? Oh man, this could be a major problem...........
As I stated before, my dealer didn't do anything but drop the stove off in my yard, so the first 3 years it didn't have any anti-corrosive in it because I didn't know it needed it. BUT, I did empty the water out every spring and replace it in the fall. I pulled the plugs and peered inside this fall and there is a fair amount of rusty sediment in the bottom of the stove. Does this mean I will have flakes until all the rust is absorbed?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Adding anti-corrosive to boiler causes things to plug.....
« on: November 18, 2014, 12:31:36 PM »
The dealer I bought my stove from was absolutely no help and I don't think is in business any longer, so I don't have anyone to ask what I am doing wrong.
When I add anti-corrosive to my boiler, my inline filter plugs with these tan colored flakes. It doesn't matter what brand I use, the higher the concentration of fluid, the more flakes I get. Has anyone had this issue before? Is the anti-corrosive absorbing any rust I have in my system or doesn't it work like that?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
When I add anti-corrosive to my boiler, my inline filter plugs with these tan colored flakes. It doesn't matter what brand I use, the higher the concentration of fluid, the more flakes I get. Has anyone had this issue before? Is the anti-corrosive absorbing any rust I have in my system or doesn't it work like that?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Plugged air and water heat exchangers, need some advice
« on: October 26, 2011, 11:11:25 AM »
Here is the in-line debris screen
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Plugged air and water heat exchangers, need some advice
« on: October 26, 2011, 11:06:52 AM »
A friend of mine suggested that I add some anti-corrosive agent to the wood stove for protection. I bought a gallon of it from him and used ¾’s of it. Within 5 days I noticed that the heat exchanger wasn’t working right. The house was chilly even though furnace blower ran continuously and showers weren’t much better. We suffered through for a month until early spring when I turned the electric hot water heater on. The air and water heat exchanger are plugged off with a heavy build-up. It has worked fine for the last two years, everything has been really hot – no complaints, the only thing I can tie it too is the anticorrosive agent, that’s the only thing that changed. I’m just now getting around to looking at it and this is what I found:
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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Plumbing / Need a new heat exchanger
« on: January 26, 2011, 10:11:09 PM »
I am running hot water up to the second floor to eliminate some accessive forced air heat runs. I have looked at heat exchangers http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200358285242&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT on ebay, but I think they are pretty expensive. I had thought about a 3/4" copper pipe inside of an 1 1/2" 10' long, what kind of btu exchange would that give me? Does this work? I've seen it done, but didn't know how well it worked.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Can the anti-corossive chemical cause heat loss?
« on: January 11, 2011, 03:45:30 AM »
I drained my boiler and changed a few things this fall. I filled it with straight water and ran it for a month or so because I didn't have any anti-corrosive agent. It was recommended that I use this stuff from Certified Labs for wood boilers because it was some of the best. I know it leaves a white film/coating on the insides of all the system components in order to prevent corrosion. The jug said that one gallon would treat up to 300, I'm not sure how large mine is, and so I guessed. I poured in 3/4 of the gallon into the system and within a week I started to get loss of heat from the air and water heat exchanger. There use to be a major temperature difference between the inlet and outlet, but the other day I felt the return lines and they are almost as hot as the feed. I know that in automotive if you mix the antifreeze wrong it will cause separation of the glycol and leave a jelly like film in the cooling system and diminishing its ability to dissipate heat. My question is, can a wrong mixture of woodstove anti-corrosive cause a film that slows the heat exchangers ability to dissipate the heat? Has anyone else run into this? Is there a fix?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Chosing a pump, just when you think you know.......
« on: February 21, 2010, 09:59:40 PM »
I appreciate everyone’s input on my air in the system dilemma. But finding that piece of the puzzle has only made me feel that there is more missing.
I have B&G 100 pumps on my boiler at work. The maintenance guy told me that they were an "industry standard" and you couldn't beat them because would work in almost every application, so I used them on my wood boiler at home. I have a friend with a wood boiler that has a B&G NRF-22 on it, which I thought looked way to small for what I was doing. After all, it was only 1/25hp Vs. the 1/12 of the 100, certainly won't do the job.
After educating myself on pumps and how to read the pump charts, now I am more confused than ever; but, In all of this I guess I found my minimum requirements. I have read through the B&G website and compared/contrasted the pumps that are approximately the same in pump volumes and head pressures.
My question is:
How can the B&G 100 compete with a pump the size of a softball, is half the hp, uses half the electricity, costs a quarter as much, and pumps the same amount of water @ equal head pressure? I feel like I should sell all of 100's I have, including the ones at work, put these little pumps in their place and be further ahead.
What is the advantage of the 100 as the "industry standard"? How come everyone doesn't use the smaller and more efficient pumps? I feel like I've cheated myself,
but it's my own fault (especially after I just bought a brand new B&G 100 trying to solve the air problem 
)
I have B&G 100 pumps on my boiler at work. The maintenance guy told me that they were an "industry standard" and you couldn't beat them because would work in almost every application, so I used them on my wood boiler at home. I have a friend with a wood boiler that has a B&G NRF-22 on it, which I thought looked way to small for what I was doing. After all, it was only 1/25hp Vs. the 1/12 of the 100, certainly won't do the job.
After educating myself on pumps and how to read the pump charts, now I am more confused than ever; but, In all of this I guess I found my minimum requirements. I have read through the B&G website and compared/contrasted the pumps that are approximately the same in pump volumes and head pressures.
My question is:
How can the B&G 100 compete with a pump the size of a softball, is half the hp, uses half the electricity, costs a quarter as much, and pumps the same amount of water @ equal head pressure? I feel like I should sell all of 100's I have, including the ones at work, put these little pumps in their place and be further ahead.What is the advantage of the 100 as the "industry standard"? How come everyone doesn't use the smaller and more efficient pumps? I feel like I've cheated myself,
but it's my own fault (especially after I just bought a brand new B&G 100 trying to solve the air problem )12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Air getting into my system causing slow flow......frustrated
« on: February 14, 2010, 10:35:52 PM »i have a feeling your air intercooler is your problem. why? because its design is for cooling air ,and not for exchanging water to hot air. i would think that it is the highest component in your system ,which would explain air buildup. the cooler may be creating excess head pressure causing pump to start cavitating. i would try useing radiator instead. although i have read truck radiators do not work as well as the real thing, try for yourself. i would still try to find someone to calculate all your ft/head gpm requirements based on ft/dia pipe type/model of all exchangers. don't know how they will calculate radiator? my feeling is that your current pump is going to be undersized for your application,also explaining your pumps slow death. in another post i talked about my issues with pump sizing 101. theres really more to it than just moving water. best of luck.
The exchanger in the shop is actually lower than the stove - which makes it more frustrating why the air and pressure builds up. I have a truck radiator in the house. It was recored and the truck rusted out. It keeps the house at 70 without any problem; it actually makes the air in the plenum hotter than what the fuel oil did. I agree, the pump may be undersized, but again, I took a guess. I don't understand how something that is made to flow over 1000 cfm would cause any kind of restriction. But as mentioned earlier, if the pump is on the edge, then it wouldn't take much to push it over.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Air getting into my system causing slow flow......frustrated
« on: February 13, 2010, 04:58:14 PM »
Here is a strange turn of events.
Out of frustration and lack of a pump change out I isolated just the house heat exchangers by closing the valves in the garage. I stocked the furnace and left for work. When I got home the house was warm and the furnace fan had shut down. I crusied into the basement to do my usual air bleed off and, to my suprise, the air had purged itself out of the system - just like it use to do. I thought to myself, weird, and went on with my afternoon. On my heat exchanger in the garage I had put a pepcock on the top of it to bleed air off. With both the inlet and outlet valves closed off I opened the valve and let out a tremendous volume of pressure! (purged water and air until nothing came out) I then opened the valves and the system worked normally. After about 4-5 hours in the garage that night I could start to hear the air bubbles in the lines again. I went into the house and checked, sure enough, full of air and slow flow. I was like, WTF is going on here? So I went back to the garage and turned the valves back off - few hours go by, system back to normal.
So you know, the garage exchanger is a brand new air-to-air intercooler of a truck chassis. I picked the heavy duty aluminum radiator/intercooler combination for $150 - not to shabby. New from the factory, just off last years model, so they scrapped them out - I removed the factory plugs. It measures 13" tall, 58" long, 8" wide, with 4" inlets/outlets. (the radiator is about 1/3 larger and was bolted to the intercooler, but that's for another building) I made plates to reduce to 1" Pretty good deal I thought - there is a pile of them in case anyone is looking.
My question is; why is a system that is vented to the atmosphere building pressure in the heat exchanger? Why doesn't it do it all the time, only when I open the garage valves? I could see if it was plugged or old or something, but it can obviously flow way more than I need. How do I over come this? Add a booster pump and a powered gate valve? After all this I bought a new B&G 100 that I probably don't need - was big $$. Now my garage is cold, so I need to find a remedy.
Out of frustration and lack of a pump change out I isolated just the house heat exchangers by closing the valves in the garage. I stocked the furnace and left for work. When I got home the house was warm and the furnace fan had shut down. I crusied into the basement to do my usual air bleed off and, to my suprise, the air had purged itself out of the system - just like it use to do. I thought to myself, weird, and went on with my afternoon. On my heat exchanger in the garage I had put a pepcock on the top of it to bleed air off. With both the inlet and outlet valves closed off I opened the valve and let out a tremendous volume of pressure! (purged water and air until nothing came out) I then opened the valves and the system worked normally. After about 4-5 hours in the garage that night I could start to hear the air bubbles in the lines again. I went into the house and checked, sure enough, full of air and slow flow. I was like, WTF is going on here?
So I went back to the garage and turned the valves back off - few hours go by, system back to normal. So you know, the garage exchanger is a brand new air-to-air intercooler of a truck chassis. I picked the heavy duty aluminum radiator/intercooler combination for $150 - not to shabby. New from the factory, just off last years model, so they scrapped them out - I removed the factory plugs. It measures 13" tall, 58" long, 8" wide, with 4" inlets/outlets. (the radiator is about 1/3 larger and was bolted to the intercooler, but that's for another building) I made plates to reduce to 1" Pretty good deal I thought - there is a pile of them in case anyone is looking.
My question is; why is a system that is vented to the atmosphere building pressure in the heat exchanger? Why doesn't it do it all the time, only when I open the garage valves? I could see if it was plugged or old or something, but it can obviously flow way more than I need. How do I over come this? Add a booster pump and a powered gate valve? After all this I bought a new B&G 100 that I probably don't need - was big $$. Now my garage is cold, so I need to find a remedy.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Air getting into my system causing slow flow......frustrated
« on: February 11, 2010, 06:18:50 PM »
My deal is that it worked from the start; if I had problems from the beginning I would make multiple changes. But it does seem to be getting progressively worse; now it won't keep the house warm and we have not so hot showers. I have isolated the water flow to the house heat exchanger and it still didn't recover. I have new pump on its way.
My setup worked as a non-pressurized system. The air is a new thing that emerged one night out the blue. You can purge the majority of the air out with fresh water. Then over the course of a couple of days the water level would drop a bit, then level off, that’s how I knew the air was purged out. Now it's just the opposite. I see the water level indicator rising to a certain point - then I know the air has displaced the water. I agree on the pumps slow death because of its deteriorating performance.
What pump would you recommend to increase volume? I don't know the progression of model numbers for B&G as a next step up. I took a stab in the dark with the B&G 100; a business had them on their boiler that's how I got the model #. No one could tell me what I needed; everyone around here uses the little taco or B&G 1/125 hp pumps that you can buy at Menards and it works for them; I knew from the start that wasn't going to work for me. All the local wood burner guys just sell what the stove dealer recommends - that's why I came here for advice.
My setup worked as a non-pressurized system. The air is a new thing that emerged one night out the blue. You can purge the majority of the air out with fresh water. Then over the course of a couple of days the water level would drop a bit, then level off, that’s how I knew the air was purged out. Now it's just the opposite. I see the water level indicator rising to a certain point - then I know the air has displaced the water. I agree on the pumps slow death because of its deteriorating performance.
What pump would you recommend to increase volume? I don't know the progression of model numbers for B&G as a next step up. I took a stab in the dark with the B&G 100; a business had them on their boiler that's how I got the model #. No one could tell me what I needed; everyone around here uses the little taco or B&G 1/125 hp pumps that you can buy at Menards and it works for them; I knew from the start that wasn't going to work for me. All the local wood burner guys just sell what the stove dealer recommends - that's why I came here for advice.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Air getting into my system causing slow flow......frustrated
« on: February 10, 2010, 09:56:57 PM »after re-reading your post the line of (the flow is half of what it was) i would try another pump first thing....if after you purge the system then the pump should pump that same as it did on day one...if not...i suspect trouble right there!
also i looked on line and i could not find any info on your pump of what its "lift" is or head pressure ect. but i suspect it is well within reason if it worked ok for a month
half the flow is just a guess; I didn't actually measure it. But it is significantly less than when it started.
here is a link that gives all the specs on the pump.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/70101/Bell_and_Gossett_SERIES_100_Inline_Circulator_Pump
What is there to go wrong with a pump? How can it make air?
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