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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / low performing plate exchanger
« on: December 02, 2013, 07:28:08 AM »
My water-to-water plate exchanger no longer functions well, so I figured it was plugged up. My exchanger was plumped with hose spigots to facilitate flushing. Here's the procedure I followed to clear things up: I flooded the plate exchanger with CLR and let it soak inside for 24 hours; I flushed the exchanger both ways using clear krylon tubing so I could see what came out; I got some gunk out, but I saw no improvement in function. In addition, I now have greenish, stinking water when I first use hot water, even six days after performing my procedure (I have a on-demand propane unit plumped downstream, and it supplies my hot water now and during the summer). This greenish, foul-smelling water does clear up if I let the water run for a few minutes, but the next time I use the hot water after down time, the greenish, stinking water at start up reoccurs. I do have the bleeder setup, which I have set to no bleed. I think the bleeder system, for my use, was a waste of money. From what I can tell, if a plate exchanger needs cleaning after a few years, the investment in the equipment and the loss of energy associated with heating water is not worth it. I have a water softener upstream of the plate exchanger, so I anticipated no calcium buildup or any clogging issues.
What flushing techniques work? Has any one used vinegar as a way to avoid introducing chemicals to his potable water? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? Thank you.
What flushing techniques work? Has any one used vinegar as a way to avoid introducing chemicals to his potable water? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? Thank you.
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Central Boiler / Re: No domestic hot water
« on: December 01, 2013, 06:41:58 AM »
If anyone has successfully used CLR to unclog a water-to-water heat exchanger, I'd very much appreciate the procedure followed. I tried doing mine this way: I flooded the plate exchanger and let the CLR sit inside for 24 hours; I flushed the exchanger both ways using clear krylon tubing so I could see what came out; I got some gunk out, but I saw no improvement in function. In addition, I now have greenish, stinking water when I first use hot water (I have a on-demand propane unit plumped downstream, and it supplies my hot water during the summer), even six days after performing the "fix." This greenish water does clear up, but the next time I use the hot water after down time, the greenish, stinking water at start up reoccurs. I do have the bleeder setup, which I have set to no bleed. I think the bleeder system, for my use, was a waste of money. From what I can tell, if a plate exchanger needs cleaning after a few years, the investment in the equipment and the loss of energy associated with heating water is not worth it. I have a water softener upstream of the plate exchanger, so I anticipated no such clogging issues.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: smoke roll out
« on: January 26, 2011, 01:08:33 PM »
Thanks everyone. I think juddspaintballs might be on to the method I should try. My damper opens at 175 and closes at 185 (standard from CB), and roll out is less when the fire is at its lowest. Central Boiler makes a remote temperature kit, and if I can see the temperature going down inside my house, then I can just wait until its at 177 or 176 and then load up. Attached is a photo of the Fields Electric draft inducer I'm considering, but this is an $800 unit. You all can read about how a man in Pennsylvania modified his CB 6048 here: http://www.woodheat.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=21&Itemid=102
Thanks again.
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
Thanks again.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: smoke roll out
« on: January 26, 2011, 12:49:03 PM »
Scratch
Currently, I'm burning mostly oak and ash, some poplar, cut last last spring. This wood is split. I sometimes augment this wood with some large round beech and poplar. No garbage pallets. The smoke really rolls out as I add "cold" wood, especially if the stove is on the way up from 175 to 185. I have the taste of smoke on my tongue almost all the time, and I try to load just once a day. I am surprised at the lack of attention to roll out on this forum. I thought there might be some tricks to the game. Maybe I'm too sensitive.
Currently, I'm burning mostly oak and ash, some poplar, cut last last spring. This wood is split. I sometimes augment this wood with some large round beech and poplar. No garbage pallets. The smoke really rolls out as I add "cold" wood, especially if the stove is on the way up from 175 to 185. I have the taste of smoke on my tongue almost all the time, and I try to load just once a day. I am surprised at the lack of attention to roll out on this forum. I thought there might be some tricks to the game. Maybe I'm too sensitive.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / smoke roll out
« on: January 25, 2011, 09:25:09 PM »
I'm new to this forum as a registered member, but I've been reading through the discussions for a few days. I was wondering if any of the other forum members have a successful way of combating smoke roll out. I have a Central Boiler 6048, and this is my second season. My only issue is how much smoke exhausts from the loading door during reloads. I find it very difficult to load wood with so much smoke pouring out. It's so bad I've considered a Fields Electric draft inducer on the stacks just to suck the smoke out when loading, but this is an expensive option, and I'm not sure how effective it would be on windy days. Any help or suggestions anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Joe
Joe
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