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1
Portage & Main / Re: 28-40
« on: April 07, 2016, 03:23:35 PM »
I am pulling from the top and returning to the bottom. I add about 5 gallons per season.
Rick
Rick
2
Portage & Main / Re: 28-40
« on: March 27, 2016, 08:30:15 PM »
Open the ash pan door, give it about 30 seconds, and then open the fill door. Shouldn't be much smoke coming out the fill door. Do this even if the fan is running. Just remember to close the ash door when your finished. I never turn the fan switch off when loading.
I plumbed in a valve at the house loop, to use to fill and top up the stove. Just need the wife to open and close while I watch the gauge.
Agree it would be nice to have a light at the front and back, however, I really don't have to open the back door very often. Every couple of days or so to check. . For the front, I installed a light on my wood shed the provides plenty of light on the fill side.
I found cutting my logs 32 to 36 inches works best for loading ease. Any longer and the big logs are hard to get in. I keep a bar close to help with the really big ones.
I am finishing up my second year, very happy so far with the performance.
Hope this helps.
Rick
I plumbed in a valve at the house loop, to use to fill and top up the stove. Just need the wife to open and close while I watch the gauge.
Agree it would be nice to have a light at the front and back, however, I really don't have to open the back door very often. Every couple of days or so to check. . For the front, I installed a light on my wood shed the provides plenty of light on the fill side.
I found cutting my logs 32 to 36 inches works best for loading ease. Any longer and the big logs are hard to get in. I keep a bar close to help with the really big ones.
I am finishing up my second year, very happy so far with the performance.
Hope this helps.
Rick
3
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840
« on: February 16, 2016, 07:17:22 AM »
If your fan is no good, an option until you get a replacement, is to run a shop vac in "blow". The vacuum can act as the fan.
Rick
Rick
4
Portage & Main / Re: Should I upgrade from a cb 6048. To a 3444
« on: February 07, 2016, 11:59:42 AM »
For the heat load stated, and even if both homes heated dht, the Bl2840 should be plenty sufficient. I'm heating 2000 sq ft home with poor insulation and 30x40 shop with decent insulation but poor doors. Both are kept at 20 - 25 deg C. My 2840 would probably go 24 hours in mild weather and a full load.
You are better off making the stove work, then letting it idle.
Rick
You are better off making the stove work, then letting it idle.
Rick
5
Portage & Main / Re: Questions on finishing install of BL28-40
« on: December 13, 2015, 08:58:20 PM »
I burried some cat6 in the trench to the boiler, but have not used it. Most likely never will as I check/fill the stove twice a day anyway so I can check the temp there if a want to know it. I will however install a strobe light warning if the tempture gets to high.
If you have a plate exchanger for domestic hot water, you won't need a side arm.
Rick
If you have a plate exchanger for domestic hot water, you won't need a side arm.
Rick
6
Portage & Main / Re: Questions on finishing install of BL28-40
« on: December 13, 2015, 08:47:44 PM »
You'll want the pump pushing towards the house. I have one pump at the boiler for the house. And one in the shop. The pump for house is at boiler as the house is higher then the boiler, and in the event I have to replace it in a hurry, I don't want to fight trying to prime it.
My set up has the circuit going to a w/w plate exchanger then to w/air exchanger then through filter and finally back to the stove. Also have a bypass valve before going into the exchangers as well as around the filter. I run the stove at 180 and do not have a mixer on the domestic hot water. We just be careful with the faucets. The plate exchanger heats the domestic water going into the hwt. I turn the elements off.
I installed a receptical at the stove to plug the pump in.
Make sure to install bypass valves.
Rick
My set up has the circuit going to a w/w plate exchanger then to w/air exchanger then through filter and finally back to the stove. Also have a bypass valve before going into the exchangers as well as around the filter. I run the stove at 180 and do not have a mixer on the domestic hot water. We just be careful with the faucets. The plate exchanger heats the domestic water going into the hwt. I turn the elements off.
I installed a receptical at the stove to plug the pump in.
Make sure to install bypass valves.
Rick
7
Portage & Main / Re: Grounding?
« on: March 20, 2015, 12:23:26 PM »
I drilled a hole in one leg and grounded it there.
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: -30 fahrenheit!
« on: February 19, 2015, 02:27:49 PM »
i am getting 12 to 14 hours on a load with P&M 2840 in -30*C temps. I would say this is 1/2 to 3/4 filling up the stove. I am burning a mix of dry and green tamarac.
Rick
Rick
9
Plumbing / Re: insulation between burner and furnace
« on: February 05, 2015, 01:07:56 PM »
In my opinion, there is no need to insulate the lines, unless they are exposed in an area not being heated. The heat that you lose off the exposed pipe is basically "free" heat.
Rick
Rick
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water sample
« on: February 05, 2015, 07:32:09 AM »
I believe you send it directly to their head office. this is what i did and they sent me results within a week.
Rick
Rick
11
Plumbing / Re: what else did u put in your "boiler line trench"
« on: November 17, 2014, 11:46:34 AM »
I ran a 3/4" water line between house, stove and shop. Cat 6 network cable between the three. Extra power supply to stove. 4 way circuit to control lighting needs between the three. I also laid 2" SM over everything before back filling.
Rick
Rick
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Portage and Main owners
« on: November 13, 2014, 07:47:29 AM »
My new BL2840 has been heating the house for a week now. I dealt with Rory at head office and picked up the stove at the Factory in Piney. Everyone was a pleasure to deal with. Very happy so far.
Rick R
Rick R
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