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1
Shaver Furnace / Re: Thermowind Owners??
« on: February 09, 2014, 05:56:33 PM »
Hi brink1963,
Just wondering if you would provide some info on the circuit board you installed, have been looking into this same blower control.
Church
Just wondering if you would provide some info on the circuit board you installed, have been looking into this same blower control.
Church
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: silly questions
« on: December 18, 2011, 07:05:30 PM »
Thanks Martyinmi,
I have mentioned to others ( not here on the forum ) but those who ODW as well, ( networking ). And they were surprised at my temp setting as well. I just never readjusted it because it has been maintaining the house temp. I contacted the manufacturer as well and inquired their recommendation, they said they had one in use and it was running @ 130. Didn't mention anything in regards to raising it, just that if I had difficulty maintaining house temp, then to raise it to meet demands as needed. That it could be lowered in more moderate temps. Are you suggesting that I then should raise it at least 150* ? Still learning wth unit, didn't fire it after installed until Feb., this year. Ran it for couple of months using their stat setting @ 140*. Fired it this year around the first of Nov. It has really depended a lot on the weather as to how much h2o was on the door shelf. I have been playing with the blower, tryng to get it turned in if you will. I believe they have to much cfm for the unit, The stock blower was less in regards to their upgrade I went with. Like I said still following the leads found here applying what I feel what might be of advantage to efficiently operating it.
Thanks again for your feed back. Any other info would be appreciated.
Church
I have mentioned to others ( not here on the forum ) but those who ODW as well, ( networking ). And they were surprised at my temp setting as well. I just never readjusted it because it has been maintaining the house temp. I contacted the manufacturer as well and inquired their recommendation, they said they had one in use and it was running @ 130. Didn't mention anything in regards to raising it, just that if I had difficulty maintaining house temp, then to raise it to meet demands as needed. That it could be lowered in more moderate temps. Are you suggesting that I then should raise it at least 150* ? Still learning wth unit, didn't fire it after installed until Feb., this year. Ran it for couple of months using their stat setting @ 140*. Fired it this year around the first of Nov. It has really depended a lot on the weather as to how much h2o was on the door shelf. I have been playing with the blower, tryng to get it turned in if you will. I believe they have to much cfm for the unit, The stock blower was less in regards to their upgrade I went with. Like I said still following the leads found here applying what I feel what might be of advantage to efficiently operating it.
Thanks again for your feed back. Any other info would be appreciated.
Church
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: silly questions
« on: December 18, 2011, 03:21:49 PM »
For my clarification regarding sweating.
Are you talking about actual condensation being caused by such water temp diiferentials, cold water returning to a warm/hot surface and not the condensation of the moisture being released from the wood during burns? I have been getting that type of condition in the burn chamber, even worst during this mild weather, longer idle times. I have my temp set @140 with 5 degree on/off. Would your recommendations be to raise temp or widen on/off to help prevent this? This temp setting has been heating the home ok. I haven't taken a return water temp reading so I do not know what it is. The temp gauge on supply @ hx stays within that range. I have a open system boiler. I can understand the water jacket sweating due colder temp exposure.
Thanks,
Church
Are you talking about actual condensation being caused by such water temp diiferentials, cold water returning to a warm/hot surface and not the condensation of the moisture being released from the wood during burns? I have been getting that type of condition in the burn chamber, even worst during this mild weather, longer idle times. I have my temp set @140 with 5 degree on/off. Would your recommendations be to raise temp or widen on/off to help prevent this? This temp setting has been heating the home ok. I haven't taken a return water temp reading so I do not know what it is. The temp gauge on supply @ hx stays within that range. I have a open system boiler. I can understand the water jacket sweating due colder temp exposure.
Thanks,
Church
4
Shaver Furnace / Re: Hat/coat hanger...a Shaver option?
« on: December 15, 2011, 05:27:07 PM »
Lugnut,
I just sent you a PM.
Church
I just sent you a PM.
Church
5
Central Boiler / Re: Temp monitoring plans
« on: December 11, 2011, 07:24:43 AM »
Hello Ridgekid,
Glad to hear all went well in your absence with your wife taking care of the home fires. She made the attempt as would mine if need be I believe so I have to give her credit for that. I just have to get her over the idea of just tossing in the wood and shutting the door. She feels that as long as the house is warm all is well and working, I won't even attempt to retrain her, after 30 years we pretty much know what one will and will not do, but it works for us. Compromise / respect is the answer. I now have to get the domestic water on line, new washer installed late yesterday and she wants to use that option. I am leaning toward the installation of the flat pate after the HX then to the DHWX on the cold inlet. I have let the fire get low and if I installed as an on demand set up that would not be good if she had to endure a cold shower because of me. Not sure of the plate sizing as of yet, we are plumbed with 1" copper from the pex, any suggestions?
Again glad to hear all went well, I would have to beleive she would do it again if need be for you.
Church
Glad to hear all went well in your absence with your wife taking care of the home fires. She made the attempt as would mine if need be I believe so I have to give her credit for that. I just have to get her over the idea of just tossing in the wood and shutting the door. She feels that as long as the house is warm all is well and working, I won't even attempt to retrain her, after 30 years we pretty much know what one will and will not do, but it works for us. Compromise / respect is the answer. I now have to get the domestic water on line, new washer installed late yesterday and she wants to use that option. I am leaning toward the installation of the flat pate after the HX then to the DHWX on the cold inlet. I have let the fire get low and if I installed as an on demand set up that would not be good if she had to endure a cold shower because of me. Not sure of the plate sizing as of yet, we are plumbed with 1" copper from the pex, any suggestions?
Again glad to hear all went well, I would have to beleive she would do it again if need be for you.
Church
6
Central Boiler / Re: Temp monitoring plans
« on: December 02, 2011, 01:41:13 PM »
Ridgekid,
"I can call the wife and tell her when to add wood! That's the main purpose of this set-up-to monitor when I'm away."
I don't think even with your set up that I could get my wife to reload the boiler.
I shared with her one of my experiences with opening the door to quick without letting it clear the chamber, it was some what of a scene out of "Backdraft" and that is all she needed to remind me that she still knows how to fire up the propane!
Church
"I can call the wife and tell her when to add wood! That's the main purpose of this set-up-to monitor when I'm away."
I don't think even with your set up that I could get my wife to reload the boiler.
I shared with her one of my experiences with opening the door to quick without letting it clear the chamber, it was some what of a scene out of "Backdraft" and that is all she needed to remind me that she still knows how to fire up the propane!
Church
7
Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver auto dampers
« on: November 22, 2011, 07:42:31 PM »My 165 I had first had the 50 cfm blower and my 250 has a 75 cfm fanBeen following this discussion and had some thoughts come to mind:
The 165 comes with a 50 cfm blower with a slide damper for blower air control during off cycle, keeping the fire to a minimum to prevent boiling during off cycle and yet open enough for adequate fire during call for heat.
When ordering the soleniod / damper upgrade, the blower is increased to 75 cfm.
The 250 comes with a 75 cfm blower, ( standard ? ), with or w/out damper upgrade ( ? ).
The increase in blower cfm on the 165 is for ease of installation of damper upgrade when ordering such option.
Thoughts,
1 ) Wouldn't the increase in the blower cfm create a possible overfiring situation ?
2 ) Increased wood consumption ?
3 ) Creating more of a water "hot spot" then conditioning more of the volume of water during a less intense burn cycle ?
4 ) Wouldn't controlling the air flow also contribute to effeciency ? Blower speed controller or slide damper installed along with damper ?
I understand the use of a damper to shut down air flow during off cycle, ( natural draft stoppage ).
Just some thoughts, looking for other opinions and insights.
I understand there are a lot variables when it comes to getting the most out of burning your wood, just looking to get the most from the least.
Thanks,
Church
8
Plumbing / Re: Controlling / compensating for lateral pex movement ?
« on: October 31, 2011, 07:56:21 PM »
RSI,
Not sure of the brand of pipe right off, I purchased the triple wrapped 4 pipe system. I have thought about trying to control the movement by securing it in the basement, but concern is what is it going to do at / to the boiler plumbing? It is a very straight install from house to boiler, there are very few if any curves / offsets on install. I do have some piping left that I could install the radius with.
Thanks for your reply.
Church
Not sure of the brand of pipe right off, I purchased the triple wrapped 4 pipe system. I have thought about trying to control the movement by securing it in the basement, but concern is what is it going to do at / to the boiler plumbing? It is a very straight install from house to boiler, there are very few if any curves / offsets on install. I do have some piping left that I could install the radius with.
Thanks for your reply.
Church
9
Plumbing / Re: Controlling / compensating for lateral pex movement ?
« on: October 29, 2011, 10:50:48 AM »
Thanks Mikenc,
Do you think I am being to concerned about the movement? I could rework my plumbing and raise the pump to give more room for that type of installation, I have about 14" to the pump now from the 90 on the pex entrance.
Do you think I am being to concerned about the movement? I could rework my plumbing and raise the pump to give more room for that type of installation, I have about 14" to the pump now from the 90 on the pex entrance.
10
Plumbing / Controlling / compensating for lateral pex movement ?
« on: October 29, 2011, 09:36:26 AM »
My description of my installation. Approximately 65' from stove to entry of basement at 40+ inches below grade. Entry into basement then vertical rise w/ 90 to floor joist ( 48" with pump install in this rise ). Then converted to use of copper, 14' horizontal to mechanical room entry w/ 8' to heat exchanger. The lateral movement in the insulated Pex w/ water temperature @140 is approximately 5", the movement seems to be putting a lot of torque on the copper lines. How are others controlling / compensating for this movement? Should I attempt to install a piece of Pex in a radius between the entry and pump location or use another shark bite in the horizontal run and allow movement there? I have searched the gallery for other install pictures, but I could have over looked them.
Thanks for any info that you could give me regarding this situation.
Church
Thanks for any info that you could give me regarding this situation.
Church
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