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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what do you look for in a water to air Heat Exchanger?
« on: November 25, 2015, 08:30:03 AM »
Thanks for the recommendations!! I went with a 18x18 (recommended size from the guy doing the HVAC work) from Freeheat4u.com. This forum has saved my butt a few times through this project.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / what do you look for in a water to air Heat Exchanger?
« on: November 24, 2015, 04:03:57 PM »
I'm behind the ball with my project and i need to get a heat exchanger picked out asap. Looking around there aren't a lot of places that sell them and when they do it doesn't give much info on them or explain why theirs are better than any other one. For one, we have an Amazon Prime account and they sell them on there for a decent price, and we would get it in two days. Are those good enough for any kind of forced air system?
one i'm looking at is. http://www.amazon.com/18x18-Water-Exchanger-Outdoor-Furnace/dp/B00B1GRIS4
let me know what you think. I've looked around on here and haven't been able to find anyone who's talked about this.
one i'm looking at is. http://www.amazon.com/18x18-Water-Exchanger-Outdoor-Furnace/dp/B00B1GRIS4
let me know what you think. I've looked around on here and haven't been able to find anyone who's talked about this.
3
Plumbing / What size pump?
« on: April 06, 2015, 02:16:46 PM »
I'm having troubles figuring out the size of pumps i need for my application. I was recommended Gundfos Pumps because you can replace parts of the pump if it goes bad rather than buying a whole new pump. However i have no clue what pump to get.
Is there an graph that would show distance with pex size and how much HP my pump should be? I've tried searching the forums but can't find any related posts, which surprises me.
200ft round trip for the house
70ft round trip for the shed
Is there an graph that would show distance with pex size and how much HP my pump should be? I've tried searching the forums but can't find any related posts, which surprises me.
200ft round trip for the house
70ft round trip for the shed
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Plumbing / Re: Insulated Pex comparison chart?
« on: April 06, 2015, 12:48:44 PM »
For this project a trencher won't work so i will need a backhoe to come in to help. The guy who's doing the job has a wood boiler as well. He turned me on to a product called Insul-seal. It's basically PVC pipe with closed cell foam on the outside and then a thick plastic covering, then you pull whatever pex tubing through the conduit. It's made in a town just 30 minutes from my place, in SE Minnesota, and I'd love to give local business my money if their product can compete with other reputable buisnesses. However I've tried calling the company three times now, filled out their contact info on the website with my email and still haven't heard back... I'm very quickly loosing interest in their product.
http://insulseal.com/
http://insulseal.com/
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Plumbing / Insulated Pex comparison chart?
« on: March 09, 2015, 04:04:49 PM »
I purchased a boiler (P&M Ultimizer 3444)! Now to start planning everything else.
The Portage and Main dealer i'm buying the furnace through is out of Mankato, MN. He sells Rehau 1", and i've seen good reviews about the brand. He sells it for $12 a ft and $11 if it's over 300ft. I'm guessing I will only need around 150ft. A friend of mine also needs to buy some and both of us together would be buying around $450ft
I'd like to buy everything through my P&M dealer to make things easier but if i can find pipe through someone else for a better price i'd strongly consider it if it's rated decent.
Has anyone come out with some kind or chart or rating scale comparing all the insulated pex lines with the R-value and Price? or at least a list from 'best' to 'worst'?
thanks
New INFO for this topic:
I made some measurements last night. To the house it's about 80ft, to the Shop it's about 25 ft. I have not figured in any 'extra' that i would need for the install yet.
The Portage and Main dealer i'm buying the furnace through is out of Mankato, MN. He sells Rehau 1", and i've seen good reviews about the brand. He sells it for $12 a ft and $11 if it's over 300ft. I'm guessing I will only need around 150ft. A friend of mine also needs to buy some and both of us together would be buying around $450ft
I'd like to buy everything through my P&M dealer to make things easier but if i can find pipe through someone else for a better price i'd strongly consider it if it's rated decent.
Has anyone come out with some kind or chart or rating scale comparing all the insulated pex lines with the R-value and Price? or at least a list from 'best' to 'worst'?
thanks
New INFO for this topic:
I made some measurements last night. To the house it's about 80ft, to the Shop it's about 25 ft. I have not figured in any 'extra' that i would need for the install yet.
6
Portage & Main / Re: Do i go with the BL2840 or the BL3444. I'm on the edge!
« on: March 04, 2015, 07:57:27 PM »
well I'm buying a 34-44. Such a big chunk of money... I hope i'm making the right choice!
Thanks to you all for your opinions and help.
Thanks to you all for your opinions and help.
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Plumbing / Re: Should i buy the Pex from my OWB dealer?
« on: January 21, 2015, 05:56:54 AM »
Ya, the value flex isn't happening... I aint gonna skimp on this part of the project!
As far as length it may just be me ordering... and if so probably only a total of 170ft. However my neighbor is very strongly considering buying a stove as well and he will need pipe, also a co-workers brother is building a house and is looking at a used stove and will need pipe as well. So after that if it would work out, we could be ordering over/around 500ft total.
As far as length it may just be me ordering... and if so probably only a total of 170ft. However my neighbor is very strongly considering buying a stove as well and he will need pipe, also a co-workers brother is building a house and is looking at a used stove and will need pipe as well. So after that if it would work out, we could be ordering over/around 500ft total.
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Plumbing / Should i buy the Pex from my OWB dealer?
« on: January 20, 2015, 03:38:58 PM »
Does everyone usually just buy their pex from the same person who sold you their furnace? Would it be safe to assume that they would sell it to their own customers for cheaper rather than calling another boiler distributor who you didn't buy the OWB from?
The guy who i'm probably going to be buying my furnace through sells a couple different types of insulated pex line.
Value Flex @ $8.50 per ft and Rehau Pex @ $12.00 per ft
Between the two he has i'd probably go with the Rehau, but i'm still in the research stage and need some help.
Thanks
The guy who i'm probably going to be buying my furnace through sells a couple different types of insulated pex line.
Value Flex @ $8.50 per ft and Rehau Pex @ $12.00 per ft
Between the two he has i'd probably go with the Rehau, but i'm still in the research stage and need some help.
Thanks
9
Portage & Main / Re: Do i go with the BL2840 or the BL3444. I'm on the edge!
« on: January 19, 2015, 06:24:48 AM »
What types of wood are you burning? hard/soft? seasoned/green?
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Portage & Main / Re: Do i go with the BL2840 or the BL3444. I'm on the edge!
« on: January 19, 2015, 05:15:29 AM »
I get to Rochester 4 or 5 times a year. Mayo Clinic saved my life 17 years ago and has kept me going since. Some of the people there are like family to me.
I'm very glad to hear that! I wouldn't be surprised if you've ran into my wife a few times. She works in Radiology and i'm in IT/Networks.
On a side note I have my neighbor pretty serious about buying a furnace at the same time, he's still fuming mad from the gas prices last year. Is it unreasonable to see if the dealer would give a discount if we decide to buy two furnaces at the same time?
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Portage & Main / Do i go with the BL2840 or the BL3444. I'm on the edge!
« on: January 18, 2015, 02:31:11 PM »
I'm having a dilemma picking out the correct furnace for what we need and hope you can help.
We live in SE Minnesota outside Rochester. We have 12 acres of mostly hardwoods (oak, walnut, maple, cherry). I'm pretty good on leaving wood split and stacked for at least one summer to season. The OWB will be to replace our current indoor, forced air, wood burning furnace.
The OWB I want go buy will be heating the house and my work shop (steel pole barn, which is insulated in the back half). The shop currently has a hanging LP furnace. The house has a heat pump on the AC unit that can keep the house heated down to around freezing, also we have a LP furnace.
House
-roughly 3,000 sq ft
-Two living rooms that have high vaults, with currently no ceiling fans to move the air. The basement is only under half of the house and the rest is crawl space.
Shop
-Roughly 1,000 sq ft
-Insulated, and has 16 high ceiling.
With the heat pump we can effectively heat our house late into November or even early December. Even if the temps dip down past freezing at night and we have to burn a little LP through the night that's fine because it still won't burn much. Also with that in mind i can keep the burn hours of the OWB to a minimum to hopefully extend it's life a few years longer down the road, and can get by with less wood consumption.
Current Scenario - As of now i'm planning on only keeping my shop around 40 degrees F and then turn it up warmer when i want to spend some time out there. With that in mind i'm very confident that the BL2840 would be the right choice, regardless of the outside temps, with at least 12 hour burn times in mind.
Future Scenario - Possibly 5 - 10 years down the road when the kids get older i'll be spending more time out in the shop and I will want to keep it warmer all the time (maybe 50-60 F). Could the BL2840 still be plenty of BTU for that? Winters here usually stay above the Zero Fahrenheit and obviously when i know of a bitter cold snap coming i could turn down the shop temp to that 40 mark till it warms back up a little.
I don't want to get a boiler that's too big and have it smolder for most of it's life and have to worry about extra creisode and faster rusting. I get the impression that a, more regular, hot burning fire is by far the best option for these OWBs.
IS THERE ANYONE ELSE that has been in this situation already? I need to make up my mind soon as the EPA ban is getting closer.
We live in SE Minnesota outside Rochester. We have 12 acres of mostly hardwoods (oak, walnut, maple, cherry). I'm pretty good on leaving wood split and stacked for at least one summer to season. The OWB will be to replace our current indoor, forced air, wood burning furnace.
The OWB I want go buy will be heating the house and my work shop (steel pole barn, which is insulated in the back half). The shop currently has a hanging LP furnace. The house has a heat pump on the AC unit that can keep the house heated down to around freezing, also we have a LP furnace.
House
-roughly 3,000 sq ft
-Two living rooms that have high vaults, with currently no ceiling fans to move the air. The basement is only under half of the house and the rest is crawl space.
Shop
-Roughly 1,000 sq ft
-Insulated, and has 16 high ceiling.
With the heat pump we can effectively heat our house late into November or even early December. Even if the temps dip down past freezing at night and we have to burn a little LP through the night that's fine because it still won't burn much. Also with that in mind i can keep the burn hours of the OWB to a minimum to hopefully extend it's life a few years longer down the road, and can get by with less wood consumption.
Current Scenario - As of now i'm planning on only keeping my shop around 40 degrees F and then turn it up warmer when i want to spend some time out there. With that in mind i'm very confident that the BL2840 would be the right choice, regardless of the outside temps, with at least 12 hour burn times in mind.
Future Scenario - Possibly 5 - 10 years down the road when the kids get older i'll be spending more time out in the shop and I will want to keep it warmer all the time (maybe 50-60 F). Could the BL2840 still be plenty of BTU for that? Winters here usually stay above the Zero Fahrenheit and obviously when i know of a bitter cold snap coming i could turn down the shop temp to that 40 mark till it warms back up a little.
I don't want to get a boiler that's too big and have it smolder for most of it's life and have to worry about extra creisode and faster rusting. I get the impression that a, more regular, hot burning fire is by far the best option for these OWBs.
IS THERE ANYONE ELSE that has been in this situation already? I need to make up my mind soon as the EPA ban is getting closer.
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