Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Pages: [1]
1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: How to lower pH level?
« on: January 26, 2012, 12:23:19 AM »
Muratic acid will reduce your PH.
That is what we use in pools. Try 3 oz per 300 gallons or so and see how that works. Will not damage your stove or anything.
If its too low raise with baking soda.
That is what we use in pools. Try 3 oz per 300 gallons or so and see how that works. Will not damage your stove or anything.
If its too low raise with baking soda.
2
Pools & Hot Tubs / Heating a pool w. Central Boiler
« on: January 26, 2012, 12:05:37 AM »
I heat a 20 x 38 inground gunite pool and spa 26k gallons off my central boiler. Ran from April 1st to November 15th or so. in CT.
The diagrams and advise from central boiler does not work. It took a long time and much trial and error to get the proper flow and to keep the boiler from running down from 180+ to 100 degrees in a matter of 4-6 hours. I used several MP Flat Plate heat exchangers 20 and 40 plate (very expensive)... the outputs are too small for 2" pool plumbing and you end up with a mess of a plumbing job.
Switched to a Triangle tube heat exchanger w/ 2" FPT connections for the pool and a few extras and control it all from my Pentair Easy Touch pool control system. This opens and closes my circularity pumps from the boiler. It;s not perfect and uses a massive amount of wood to heat the pool, but it works. Located in CT so it gets cold at night.
Interested in what others are doing for larger inground pools. We did my friends house with a 33k gallon pool too.
I may be make yet more adjustments next spring - adding a second heat exchanger to help pre-heat the water then run it through a second exchanger. Plumbing this is a hassle.
Also installed 4 CPVC high temp pipes in the bottom of my pool just for pumping hot water into at night. Works good but was expensive to plump as the pipe and fittings are expensive. Only wish I put pex into the concrete before we shot the shell - like in floor heat. Think this would have been a good solution. I was already framed and rebar when I thought of it.
Did the pool, electrical and plumbing myself.
Am interested in what others are doing in this area. Are you finding the thermostatic valve helps. Dont really understand the function of this part.
The diagrams and advise from central boiler does not work. It took a long time and much trial and error to get the proper flow and to keep the boiler from running down from 180+ to 100 degrees in a matter of 4-6 hours. I used several MP Flat Plate heat exchangers 20 and 40 plate (very expensive)... the outputs are too small for 2" pool plumbing and you end up with a mess of a plumbing job.
Switched to a Triangle tube heat exchanger w/ 2" FPT connections for the pool and a few extras and control it all from my Pentair Easy Touch pool control system. This opens and closes my circularity pumps from the boiler. It;s not perfect and uses a massive amount of wood to heat the pool, but it works. Located in CT so it gets cold at night.
Interested in what others are doing for larger inground pools. We did my friends house with a 33k gallon pool too.
I may be make yet more adjustments next spring - adding a second heat exchanger to help pre-heat the water then run it through a second exchanger. Plumbing this is a hassle.
Also installed 4 CPVC high temp pipes in the bottom of my pool just for pumping hot water into at night. Works good but was expensive to plump as the pipe and fittings are expensive. Only wish I put pex into the concrete before we shot the shell - like in floor heat. Think this would have been a good solution. I was already framed and rebar when I thought of it.
Did the pool, electrical and plumbing myself.
Am interested in what others are doing in this area. Are you finding the thermostatic valve helps. Dont really understand the function of this part.
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wood Boiler...too much work? regrets?
« on: April 29, 2011, 06:01:39 AM »
I have had my Central Boiler for 5 years. Regardless of what anyone say's it's a lot of work to keep going. I have resorted to buying wood even though I live on 26 wooded acres. Don't get me wrong I like the system and feel good that I don't have to burn oil. Have oil back up and sometimes I use it. Can easily burn 15+ cords in the winter for a 3200 sf house and garage.
Once you have the wood and it's close to the boiler then it's fairly easy- but not FREE by any means. If I took my time and labor I could easily buy oil, but thats not my goal. I don't like oil and all the problems it causes.
In Eastern CT.
Once you have the wood and it's close to the boiler then it's fairly easy- but not FREE by any means. If I took my time and labor I could easily buy oil, but thats not my goal. I don't like oil and all the problems it causes.
In Eastern CT.
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Swimming Pool Heat - 30K gal pool who's doing it?
« on: April 29, 2011, 05:57:05 AM »
I have a Central Boiler classic and a 30K inground gunite pool. Have been using my ventral boiler to heat the spa and the pool for the second year now... but can't seem to get it really working.
Central Boiler has really not been any help as their diagram and brochures do-NOT match up to reality.
My problem is that within 30-40 min my boiler goes from 190 to 140 and I have tried all kinds of pump and flow combinations. Not running any domestic heat-- just the pool.
Using 1 1/4" pex to Flatplate MP38 plate heat exchanger- about 50' run. Using TACO 007 circulator. Have tried 009. Water going in at 160% coming out at 95%- I have to really turn down the flow on the pool side- it is already mixed to get it working- this gets me 110+ water going out. Have a variable speed pool pump and a couple of flow valves.
AND I can go through a cord of wood in a week no problem.
Have gone from 48% to 71 and now trying to heat from 71 to 80+
Just cant keep the heat up in the boiler. Have a fan, tried the door open and an extra fan-have good hard wood.
THe only solution I can find it to run the pool heat for 30-40 min then let the boiler recover for 60 min or so then go again.
I have yet to find anyone heating a large inground pool... any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Central Boiler has really not been any help as their diagram and brochures do-NOT match up to reality.
My problem is that within 30-40 min my boiler goes from 190 to 140 and I have tried all kinds of pump and flow combinations. Not running any domestic heat-- just the pool.
Using 1 1/4" pex to Flatplate MP38 plate heat exchanger- about 50' run. Using TACO 007 circulator. Have tried 009. Water going in at 160% coming out at 95%- I have to really turn down the flow on the pool side- it is already mixed to get it working- this gets me 110+ water going out. Have a variable speed pool pump and a couple of flow valves.
AND I can go through a cord of wood in a week no problem.
Have gone from 48% to 71 and now trying to heat from 71 to 80+
Just cant keep the heat up in the boiler. Have a fan, tried the door open and an extra fan-have good hard wood.
THe only solution I can find it to run the pool heat for 30-40 min then let the boiler recover for 60 min or so then go again.
I have yet to find anyone heating a large inground pool... any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Pages: [1]