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1
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 18, 2015, 07:20:21 AM »
Good morning Boilerman,
Thanks for the feedback!!
I have another Nitrite tester on the way. I did however find a test kit. I believe it is an older version. Maybe several years old. Do these chemicals deteriorate over time?
What would be an "extreme high level?"
As I was testing, my solution would indicate a pink color and when I swirled it would go clear. Once I got to 30 drops the color was almost purple, but as soon as I would swirl it around it would clear instantly. I stopped testing at 35 drops because I was getting no indication that it was slowing down.
So if the chemicals are still good the cure for these high levels would be...? Drain and dilute?
Thanks for your patience and expertise.
Randy
Thanks for the feedback!!
I have another Nitrite tester on the way. I did however find a test kit. I believe it is an older version. Maybe several years old. Do these chemicals deteriorate over time?
What would be an "extreme high level?"
As I was testing, my solution would indicate a pink color and when I swirled it would go clear. Once I got to 30 drops the color was almost purple, but as soon as I would swirl it around it would clear instantly. I stopped testing at 35 drops because I was getting no indication that it was slowing down.
So if the chemicals are still good the cure for these high levels would be...? Drain and dilute?
Thanks for your patience and expertise.
Randy
2
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 17, 2015, 07:30:06 PM »
Thanks Roscoe!!
We all have made sizable investments to live our lifestyles. Some much more than others!! And let's not forget all the "extras" such as chainsaws, splitters, PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), and other equipment such as truck(s) or skid steers/loaders/back hoes...The list goes on...
Twelve years ago when I started with my venture into wood burning, I wish there was a Blog or forum out there such as this one to help guide some of "newbies".
In the beginning, and even today, there is a LOT of mis-information out there on OWF.
Too many people trying to burn pure trash and garbage.
Too much smoke.
That's why a lot of jurisdictions have out right BANNED the new installations of OWF.
Even here in Pennsylvania, all new OWF have to be EPA certified.
Information is key.
Information is POWER.
If we all share, good, bad or otherwise, we all become better informed.
Thanks again!!
Randy
We all have made sizable investments to live our lifestyles. Some much more than others!! And let's not forget all the "extras" such as chainsaws, splitters, PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), and other equipment such as truck(s) or skid steers/loaders/back hoes...The list goes on...
Twelve years ago when I started with my venture into wood burning, I wish there was a Blog or forum out there such as this one to help guide some of "newbies".
In the beginning, and even today, there is a LOT of mis-information out there on OWF.
Too many people trying to burn pure trash and garbage.
Too much smoke.
That's why a lot of jurisdictions have out right BANNED the new installations of OWF.
Even here in Pennsylvania, all new OWF have to be EPA certified.
Information is key.
Information is POWER.
If we all share, good, bad or otherwise, we all become better informed.
Thanks again!!
Randy
3
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 17, 2015, 10:12:47 AM »
Good afternoon Boilerman,
I could not locate my test kit, as the first one I left in the furnace and it froze, and since I didn't want to be called a "dumb-ass" by the wife again, I brought it inside so that I would know where to find it. I think we all have gone through that!!
I did have some PH papers from the pool test kit and it came out a real strong 9. I believe that is good.
What exactly does the Nitrite test me? I was always under the impression that it related to the amount of Corrosion Inhibitor I had in my system.
Thanks for the Feedback Boilerman!!
Randy
I could not locate my test kit, as the first one I left in the furnace and it froze, and since I didn't want to be called a "dumb-ass" by the wife again, I brought it inside so that I would know where to find it. I think we all have gone through that!!
I did have some PH papers from the pool test kit and it came out a real strong 9. I believe that is good.
What exactly does the Nitrite test me? I was always under the impression that it related to the amount of Corrosion Inhibitor I had in my system.
Thanks for the Feedback Boilerman!!
Randy
4
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 16, 2015, 06:53:07 PM »
Good evening RSI,
Yes the probe was a copper and I do believe that the Chlorinated water quickly "ate" the probe.
The Heat Exchanger is a Flat Plate Stainless Steel (Marine Grade) Nickel-brazed for use in pools and hot tubs. They ain't cheap but they work wonders!!!
Randy
Yes the probe was a copper and I do believe that the Chlorinated water quickly "ate" the probe.
The Heat Exchanger is a Flat Plate Stainless Steel (Marine Grade) Nickel-brazed for use in pools and hot tubs. They ain't cheap but they work wonders!!!
Randy
5
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 16, 2015, 08:32:55 AM »
Good morning RSI,
When I originally installed my flat plate heat exchanger for my pool, I used the standard Central Boiler diagram. But I had three issues with that set-up...
1. Installing the Aquastat directly inline severely restricted my water flow.
2. My water would actually wear away the copper probe from the Aquastat.
3. With this set up the 3 way zone valve was either "ON" or "OFF" which created a tremendous drag on the furnace.
It took me about three seasons to perfect the heating of my pool. First, I took the damn Aquastat out of the water line. I use the "by-pass" line to control how much water is sent to the heat exchanger. Normally it is just cracked. Water will follow the path of least resistance, so the least resistance is the by-pass. By closing the by-pass valve I can "force" some water into the heat exchanger. My furnace is set at the Central Boiler standard 174 on and 185 off. By using this gradual way of heating the pool my water temps have not dipped below 170 before they start to rise.
And as a small insurance policy, I am using a home built timer to control the hours that the pool circulator pump runs. This helps to avoid the argument of whose turn it was to turn the pump off.
And another item that I found really helps is the addition of a solar blanket. I call it a blanket because it helps to keep the pool warm by trapping the heat "under the covers". The blanket also reduces the amount of evaporation that takes place. you would be surprised how much 'steam' comes off of a 85-88 degree pool on a 70 night!! I would have to put the loss at around an inch of water a night!!
I hope I did not wander too far away from your question.
Randy
When I originally installed my flat plate heat exchanger for my pool, I used the standard Central Boiler diagram. But I had three issues with that set-up...
1. Installing the Aquastat directly inline severely restricted my water flow.
2. My water would actually wear away the copper probe from the Aquastat.
3. With this set up the 3 way zone valve was either "ON" or "OFF" which created a tremendous drag on the furnace.
It took me about three seasons to perfect the heating of my pool. First, I took the damn Aquastat out of the water line. I use the "by-pass" line to control how much water is sent to the heat exchanger. Normally it is just cracked. Water will follow the path of least resistance, so the least resistance is the by-pass. By closing the by-pass valve I can "force" some water into the heat exchanger. My furnace is set at the Central Boiler standard 174 on and 185 off. By using this gradual way of heating the pool my water temps have not dipped below 170 before they start to rise.
And as a small insurance policy, I am using a home built timer to control the hours that the pool circulator pump runs. This helps to avoid the argument of whose turn it was to turn the pump off.
And another item that I found really helps is the addition of a solar blanket. I call it a blanket because it helps to keep the pool warm by trapping the heat "under the covers". The blanket also reduces the amount of evaporation that takes place. you would be surprised how much 'steam' comes off of a 85-88 degree pool on a 70 night!! I would have to put the loss at around an inch of water a night!!
I hope I did not wander too far away from your question.
Randy
6
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 15, 2015, 09:20:36 AM »
Good morning,
For all those that are interested I think I have managed to get a working link so that you can see some of my photos. I haven't yet added any descriptions, but I think if you have been following the thread they all should be pretty much self explanatory.
Thanks again!!
Randy
http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/rsprank/library/Furnace
For all those that are interested I think I have managed to get a working link so that you can see some of my photos. I haven't yet added any descriptions, but I think if you have been following the thread they all should be pretty much self explanatory.
Thanks again!!
Randy
http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/rsprank/library/Furnace
7
Central Boiler / Re: Proper way of stacking wood in e2400
« on: February 14, 2015, 10:11:05 PM »
Good morning,
I am experiencing similar issues with my 2400.
I hope someone out there has a solution.
But my first guess may be log length.
This year all my wood has been in the 26-30" length. Perhaps this is just a tad too long. How is your length?
Randy
I am experiencing similar issues with my 2400.
I hope someone out there has a solution.
But my first guess may be log length.
This year all my wood has been in the 26-30" length. Perhaps this is just a tad too long. How is your length?
Randy
8
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 14, 2015, 10:07:12 PM »
Good evening all,
I will try to answer all the questions that have been asked...
THANKS for all the Feedback!!
My Central Boiler Dealer is as follows...
Lawn Care Distributors
Terre Hill, Pa.
(717)445-8431
All of my furnaces have been run year round, except for a 2 day span during the early spring and late fall when they are shut down for a very thorough cleaning. The swimming pool is only run seasonally, although since I can heat my pool, my season starts a little earlier than everyone elses and ends a little later too! The garage is also seasonal. The house pump does run year round. Just for the domestic hot water in the summer and for all my heating needs during the colder times of the year.
All three pumps are mounted at the back of the unit. There is very little rise/fall in any of my circuits. Maybe 5 feet max.
The pumps are Taco 007. When I experience a "failure" it is with the plastic impeller. It looks as though it has been chewed on! The last one I replaced was missing almost half of the individual vanes and the others were severely worn. This area of Pennsylvania is known for it's "hard water". Usually during the semi annual cleaning, and especially the fall cleaning, I pull all three pumps and inspect the impellers. If any are showing signs of wear, they will be used in a non critical area, such as the garage or pool. All new pumps get installed for the house. I can deal with the pool not heating properly or the garage being cold but to wake up or come home to a cold house really is an unsettling feeling. I have probably replaced 5 pumps over the years and I am pretty sure that there will be another one replaced in the spring time. I realize the pump issue is not the fault of the furnace. I had never considered their expected life. I always just assumed that pump wear was a normal part of a hydroponic system.
I have just briefly made contact with my dealer about the cracks in the air chamber. Since the unit will have to be cool to do the upgrades, it will have to be scheduled when my furnace is down for spring cleaning. We haven't discussed whether it is something that the dealer needs to do or if it is something that I can install myself. I couldn't find any photos or even descriptions of the part or the procedure anywhere online. I have no idea what the "upgrade" is gonna entail. If it will help prevent the clogging of the air chamber I am all for it!! As trying to clean out a clogged air chamber can really be a pain.
I still have fantastic reaction chamber temps!! Unless I am running my wood and ash pile low for cleaning, I am commonly seeing temperatures in the 1.1-1.3 range!! I guess my concern is that the cracks in the chamber could "spread" to the firebox itself.
If I can ever figure how to post photos without getting the "uploader error"...
Again, thanks all!!
Randy
I will try to answer all the questions that have been asked...
THANKS for all the Feedback!!
My Central Boiler Dealer is as follows...
Lawn Care Distributors
Terre Hill, Pa.
(717)445-8431
All of my furnaces have been run year round, except for a 2 day span during the early spring and late fall when they are shut down for a very thorough cleaning. The swimming pool is only run seasonally, although since I can heat my pool, my season starts a little earlier than everyone elses and ends a little later too! The garage is also seasonal. The house pump does run year round. Just for the domestic hot water in the summer and for all my heating needs during the colder times of the year.
All three pumps are mounted at the back of the unit. There is very little rise/fall in any of my circuits. Maybe 5 feet max.
The pumps are Taco 007. When I experience a "failure" it is with the plastic impeller. It looks as though it has been chewed on! The last one I replaced was missing almost half of the individual vanes and the others were severely worn. This area of Pennsylvania is known for it's "hard water". Usually during the semi annual cleaning, and especially the fall cleaning, I pull all three pumps and inspect the impellers. If any are showing signs of wear, they will be used in a non critical area, such as the garage or pool. All new pumps get installed for the house. I can deal with the pool not heating properly or the garage being cold but to wake up or come home to a cold house really is an unsettling feeling. I have probably replaced 5 pumps over the years and I am pretty sure that there will be another one replaced in the spring time. I realize the pump issue is not the fault of the furnace. I had never considered their expected life. I always just assumed that pump wear was a normal part of a hydroponic system.
I have just briefly made contact with my dealer about the cracks in the air chamber. Since the unit will have to be cool to do the upgrades, it will have to be scheduled when my furnace is down for spring cleaning. We haven't discussed whether it is something that the dealer needs to do or if it is something that I can install myself. I couldn't find any photos or even descriptions of the part or the procedure anywhere online. I have no idea what the "upgrade" is gonna entail. If it will help prevent the clogging of the air chamber I am all for it!! As trying to clean out a clogged air chamber can really be a pain.
I still have fantastic reaction chamber temps!! Unless I am running my wood and ash pile low for cleaning, I am commonly seeing temperatures in the 1.1-1.3 range!! I guess my concern is that the cracks in the chamber could "spread" to the firebox itself.
If I can ever figure how to post photos without getting the "uploader error"...
Again, thanks all!!
Randy
9
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 14, 2015, 08:10:43 AM »
Joe,
The reply I got from the dealer is that CB offers an upgrade/repair to this problem. The way it sounds is that they will install a new set of pipes to handle airflow. He didn't get into a lot of specifics other than tell me it was "Part #2500062 $107.90" As the existing air chamber appears to be a section that was welded onto the water jacket, I hope they can understand my concern.
Do you know of anyone else that has had air chamber cracking?
Randy
The reply I got from the dealer is that CB offers an upgrade/repair to this problem. The way it sounds is that they will install a new set of pipes to handle airflow. He didn't get into a lot of specifics other than tell me it was "Part #2500062 $107.90" As the existing air chamber appears to be a section that was welded onto the water jacket, I hope they can understand my concern.
Do you know of anyone else that has had air chamber cracking?
Randy
10
Central Boiler / Re: What's Next??
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:21:50 AM »
Joe,
I have NEVER had any luck dealing directly with Central Boiler. Their attitude is like "You don't contact the manufacturer of the auto, you contact the dealer"
The dealer on the other hand, tries to appease me, but the pumps, solenoids, wiring are "normal wear items", like windshield wipers and tires on your vehicle.
I have too much money invested in wood processing equipment, saws, trucks, splitters to convert back to propane or other heat source. But I often wonder if I made the correct choice with Central Boiler.
Randy
I have NEVER had any luck dealing directly with Central Boiler. Their attitude is like "You don't contact the manufacturer of the auto, you contact the dealer"
The dealer on the other hand, tries to appease me, but the pumps, solenoids, wiring are "normal wear items", like windshield wipers and tires on your vehicle.
I have too much money invested in wood processing equipment, saws, trucks, splitters to convert back to propane or other heat source. But I often wonder if I made the correct choice with Central Boiler.
Randy
11
Central Boiler / What's Next??
« on: February 14, 2015, 05:43:10 AM »
Howdy all,
New to this blog but I have enjoyed the reading. Very informative.
I started with OWF in 2003 with one of Central Boilers monsters, the 5648. This thing was a beast!! And like most beasts it had one helluva appetite!!
I used all three zones. One for the house (heat and domestic hot water), one for the garage and one for the pool.
All three lines were about 100' in length. With the house and pool in the same trench.
This was before they came out with the ready made insulated PEX piping. Spent the better part of a weekend (and a LOT of beer bribery!) stuffing all of that tubing into those lengths of insulation. And gluing ends. Taping. Then stuffing all that in the green sleeves...fun times!!
In the spring of 2011 I got my first water leak into the firebox. I got that repaired. The plan was to make it through the next heating season and replace the furnace in the spring time.
I got the next leak Halloween of 2011. This was at the Heat Lock Baffle. No repairing this one!!
(I found that the furnace basically rotted from the firebox out!!)
I contacted my dealer and he said the Pennsylvania no longer allowed that style furnace to be sold new, so I would have to go with the newer models that were EPA Certified.
He had a new E-Classic 2400 on the lot for another customer, but he wasn't gonna take delivery for a month, so he sold me that one.
Well when we tried to remove the old furnace the back hoe got stuck in the yard!! Couldn't get the old one out, or the new one in!!
Plan B.
We set the new furnace on 4X4 posts lying on the ground. Ran some Pex piping above ground and into the house so that we wouldn't freeze!!
The next spring I built a pad and dug new trenches for the PEX lines. When I tried to dig up the old lines I found that the plastic wrap had deteriorated! That would explain my mammoth increase in wood usage!! So now I am buying the Factory Insulated Pex Lines. Great stuff!! At $10 per foot.
Now my maximum distance underground is only 25 feet!! 60 feet if I count all three lines!!
These two furnaces are like Night and Day!!
These E-Classics are truly a marvel with their reduced wood consumption and almost complete elimination of smoke. (When they are operating properly!)
I burn a variety of wood. It is all split and DRY. During the spring, summer and fall, I burn the biggest variety. Anything that I can get. Mostly FREE. Pine. Poplar. Maple. Etc. But it is DRY. In the winter when I have the biggest demand, I switch to oak, hickory and some locust. Again, it is DRY.
So here are my issues so far...
1. Replaced a door seal. Probably just me being paranoid, but I did it anyway.
2. Several times I have had the air chamber clog with Creosote. I suspect this is coming from the wood being too long and ash build up. I can normally break it free with some compressed air and heat.
3. I have replaced most of the electrical connections for the solenoids. They all seem to have worked loose over time.
4. I have already replaced one solenoid due to "elongation" of the holes for the pin that holds the dampener.
5. Replaced several Taco 007 water pumps. I can do a cartridge swap almost as fast as NASCAR pit crews can change a tire!!!
6. Now I find that one of my air chambers has two cracks. The dealer told me that they offer an "upgrade" or "replacement" for this. I pay for it and they will install it.
So are all of these issues common place or should I begin to look for another heat source? And for what else should I prepare? As I do ALL the maintenance work I would like to have an idea of forthcoming maint issues/breakdowns so that I can prepare accordingly.
Thanks all!!
Randy
New to this blog but I have enjoyed the reading. Very informative.
I started with OWF in 2003 with one of Central Boilers monsters, the 5648. This thing was a beast!! And like most beasts it had one helluva appetite!!
I used all three zones. One for the house (heat and domestic hot water), one for the garage and one for the pool.
All three lines were about 100' in length. With the house and pool in the same trench.
This was before they came out with the ready made insulated PEX piping. Spent the better part of a weekend (and a LOT of beer bribery!) stuffing all of that tubing into those lengths of insulation. And gluing ends. Taping. Then stuffing all that in the green sleeves...fun times!!
In the spring of 2011 I got my first water leak into the firebox. I got that repaired. The plan was to make it through the next heating season and replace the furnace in the spring time.
I got the next leak Halloween of 2011. This was at the Heat Lock Baffle. No repairing this one!!
(I found that the furnace basically rotted from the firebox out!!)
I contacted my dealer and he said the Pennsylvania no longer allowed that style furnace to be sold new, so I would have to go with the newer models that were EPA Certified.
He had a new E-Classic 2400 on the lot for another customer, but he wasn't gonna take delivery for a month, so he sold me that one.
Well when we tried to remove the old furnace the back hoe got stuck in the yard!! Couldn't get the old one out, or the new one in!!
Plan B.
We set the new furnace on 4X4 posts lying on the ground. Ran some Pex piping above ground and into the house so that we wouldn't freeze!!
The next spring I built a pad and dug new trenches for the PEX lines. When I tried to dig up the old lines I found that the plastic wrap had deteriorated! That would explain my mammoth increase in wood usage!! So now I am buying the Factory Insulated Pex Lines. Great stuff!! At $10 per foot.
Now my maximum distance underground is only 25 feet!! 60 feet if I count all three lines!!
These two furnaces are like Night and Day!!
These E-Classics are truly a marvel with their reduced wood consumption and almost complete elimination of smoke. (When they are operating properly!)
I burn a variety of wood. It is all split and DRY. During the spring, summer and fall, I burn the biggest variety. Anything that I can get. Mostly FREE. Pine. Poplar. Maple. Etc. But it is DRY. In the winter when I have the biggest demand, I switch to oak, hickory and some locust. Again, it is DRY.
So here are my issues so far...
1. Replaced a door seal. Probably just me being paranoid, but I did it anyway.
2. Several times I have had the air chamber clog with Creosote. I suspect this is coming from the wood being too long and ash build up. I can normally break it free with some compressed air and heat.
3. I have replaced most of the electrical connections for the solenoids. They all seem to have worked loose over time.
4. I have already replaced one solenoid due to "elongation" of the holes for the pin that holds the dampener.
5. Replaced several Taco 007 water pumps. I can do a cartridge swap almost as fast as NASCAR pit crews can change a tire!!!
6. Now I find that one of my air chambers has two cracks. The dealer told me that they offer an "upgrade" or "replacement" for this. I pay for it and they will install it.
So are all of these issues common place or should I begin to look for another heat source? And for what else should I prepare? As I do ALL the maintenance work I would like to have an idea of forthcoming maint issues/breakdowns so that I can prepare accordingly.
Thanks all!!
Randy
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