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Messages - juddspaintballs

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 43
1
Plumbing / Re: Manifold Ciculation Pump Stopped Working
« on: June 11, 2020, 02:20:00 PM »
If power going out is what's making it get stuck, you could plug in a computer UPS to power it for the brief power flickers. 

2
General Discussion / Re: Drill bits
« on: May 20, 2020, 10:10:28 PM »
Drill slow, use a good drilling oil.  Norseman makes a good bit, especially if you use the slow and lubed approach.  They should last a long time.  If you're really drilling high carbon steel, a cobalt bit will help, but it can still be done at a low speed with lube with a standard quality HSS bit. 


Drill bits:
https://www.amazon.com/44170-Norseman-set-de-Bit/dp/B00627C8ZU/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=norseman+drill+bits&link_code=qs&qid=1590033141&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2


Cutting oil:
https://www.amazon.com/Forney-20857-Magic-Industrial-Cutting/dp/B003X3ZKXI/ref=pd_bxgy_2/141-5762093-5951527?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003X3ZKXI&pd_rd_r=72a7aef2-1876-4c80-a579-375c75a38f22&pd_rd_w=zZVDP&pd_rd_wg=hdxZH&pf_rd_p=4e3f7fc3-00c8-46a6-a4db-8457e6319578&pf_rd_r=R8DJA05R5Q7H7FFYQ2WH&psc=1&refRID=R8DJA05R5Q7H7FFYQ2WH



This chart will work up to 1/2" for twist drills. 


3
Equipment / Battery chainsaw
« on: April 21, 2020, 04:43:43 PM »
I decided to try out a Milwaukee M18 chainsaw.  It uses a 16" narrow kerf chain.  I had already sawed through two bullets in another tree I cut down before this video.  The battery was about halfway used up at this point, too.  Some nice fresh red oak.  It's not a professional saw, but it's a solid performer in the "farm" style saws.  I like it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zca8InugwKE


4
Heatmor / Re: 200CSS relief vent rubber ball
« on: April 20, 2020, 03:57:05 PM »
On mine, the top of the tank has a 1" or so pipe that goes vertical through the roof.  It has a weighted rubber ball on it.  It allows the water jacket/tank to pressurize up to about 2 PSI max.  If there's more pressure or a boil over, the pressure or water vents out of the pipe by lifting the ball.  It's simple

I don't know how the vent works on my dad's newer version Heatmor.  I'd copy it if I knew. 

I don't know how to replace the weighted ball on mine, either.  I still have the ball, but not the weight.  I don't know how heavy that weight was, either. 

5
Heatmor / 200CSS relief vent rubber ball
« on: April 18, 2020, 08:59:47 PM »
I was draining my boiler today and after the water started flowing out, I remembered to remove the rubber ball that sits on top for the relief vent.  When I moved it, the vacuum broke and water came out faster, but the metal rod that hung from the ball (weight) was missing.  I don't think it's very important, but...I would like it to be as designed or better.  My dad's newer version of the 200CSS has a candy cane hook where the relief ball is on mine.  Is there a special vent in there or is it just a 180 degree bend in tubing that I could replicate on my own boiler? 


PS: draining the boiler to move it to my parents farm to heat a greenhouse starting next season.  I'll be selling this house soon and moving over there, too. 

6
Site Suggestions / Re: What happened to the site?
« on: March 27, 2020, 09:56:26 PM »
Musta caught the corona virus

7
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 09, 2020, 05:39:19 PM »
No room.

8
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 08, 2020, 05:49:30 PM »
It appears I have unlimited hot water, now.

9
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 06, 2020, 12:06:39 PM »
I'll explain the pictures.  The flat plate had to mount horizontally because of the space I had. 


Boiler water comes in the right side of the flat plate and out the left side.  I have a bypass valve setup there just in case.  Cold domestic water comes in the left side and out the right side.  There's also a mixing valve on the hot output of the water heater so it doesn't come out as hot.  Boiler water that exits the flat plate goes to the water/air heat exchanger in the furnace and then back to the boiler.  I fired the boiler back up after this, so I'll know if I get hot water from the flat plate or not in a couple hours.






10
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 04, 2020, 08:09:41 PM »
Right now it's about 65 degrees going into the water heater.  After the flat plate, I hope it'll be nice and hot. 

11
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 04, 2020, 03:11:10 PM »
Flatplate and fittings are all here, now.  I need to anchor a 2x8 to my basement wall and bolt the flatplate onto that (brackets included with the flatplate).  I already put the 1" PEX crimp fittings and the 1"x3/4" bushings and 3/4" nipples into the flat plate.  I bought two lengths of braided stainless line in 3/4" for connecting from the house water to the flatplate and back to the water heater inlet.  I have two tee's and three ball valves for the pex so I can run the boiler water through the flatplate or bypass it as needed. 

12
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: January 31, 2020, 07:36:05 PM »
I bought the 30 plate 5x12 from Badger. 

13
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: January 31, 2020, 06:35:08 AM »
That's the way I'll do it, then.

14
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: January 30, 2020, 06:46:55 AM »

15
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: January 29, 2020, 07:10:08 PM »
I've ordered the flat plate, I need to still order the 1" pex parts to make this work for me.  Regular tee's?

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