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Messages - schoppy

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HeatMaster / Re: Spring cleaning
« on: June 04, 2019, 11:29:28 PM »
Yoder when I had my first Gasser, the G400, it was really bad(8" stove pipe). We had a lot of rain and the rear seal for the venter plate didn't seal well and I had creosote streaks covering the back of the unit and puddles of creosote at the bottom in the back.

This year the ash on the top in the back (by the venter ass.) was light and powdery but the ash on the floor had to be gently scraped off, like it got wet then baked on.

I'll keep using my rain cap adjusting the height for the time of the heating season.   

HeatMaster / Re: Spring cleaning
« on: June 02, 2019, 07:18:50 PM »
Spent all day today doing the final cleaning. Really makes me want to install that GEO system I have sitting in my shed and sell my wood equipment.

E Yoder the only area of the unit that wasn't dirty was the air intake damper in to the primary combustion area. I guess I could have taken some pictures before I started cleaning but I'm betting my unit was not out of the norm going through 13 cords this season(and I clean it every year like this). Same goes for the exhaust venter area in back, ash was built up a lot. It also reaffirmed to me the importance of keeping a rain cap on my unit. I keep mine pretty high (it's a home made cap) in cold weather and keep it lower when rain is possible. The rain will come down the chimney drain through the venter and absorb into the ash under the venter which would be corrosive. I know it's 409 stainless but not impervious to corrosion. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure-or something like that. I ended up having to clean my shop vac filter 3 times this year. I put the bottom refractory back in as well as all the panels and we're ready for next year.

I also got my water sample results back and all is good.         

HeatMaster / Re: Spring cleaning
« on: May 30, 2019, 09:00:23 PM »
I have a tool I made to keep the openings clear under the side panels but the creosote really built up behind the panels. I also make sure the ash does not build up under the side rails.

Guess I'll just have to keep cleaning it.

HeatMaster / Spring cleaning
« on: May 27, 2019, 09:11:10 PM »
Since this site seems like a ghost town lately I thought I would throw out a question.

Has anyone found an easy or efficient way to remove accumulated creosote from the G series gasser's? I removed all the panels today with the help of my grandson, later than normal due to ankle surgery which still has a cast on my leg. Plenty of creosote behind the panels and at the floor in the front and back.

Share your secrets!

HeatMaster / Re: Blower fan
« on: March 14, 2019, 10:19:11 PM »
The cool/cold outside air through the rear vent does cool off the entire motor including the bearings as the entire motor is separated from the flue gas by the mounting plate. The problem is that high temps from the flue gas will transfer heat through the blower wheel and motor shaft to the inner bearing. This bearing receives more heat anyway during normal operation. This is why most high efficiency furnaces have gone to incorporating a cooling fan on the shaft just behind the inner bearing to cool it. I'm on my 3rd season and so far so good but I do have a backup if needed. 

HeatMaster / Re: Replace or repair refractory nozzle?
« on: December 16, 2018, 08:04:33 PM »
If yours are breaking apart like mine were they should come out pretty easy, in pieces. You will need to clean out all the ash from the bottom before removing the old ones and then again after you take them out. This will allow the easy installation of the new ones. The new ones also come with plugs (some type of fireproof material I'm guessing) in the outer holes and these should be left in place. When setting the new pieces, go slow and easy so you don't chip or crack off pieces of the new brick. They have beveled ends so you need to align them in the bottom and keep them tight together against each other so the gasser slot is as small as it can be. You will see that they need to be installed with the air channels lined up with the front block but that is a no brainer. 

Heatmaster sent me all four pieces for the bottom but my front and back pieces were ok so I left them in place and now I have spares for those.   

HeatMaster / Re: Replace or repair refractory nozzle?
« on: December 09, 2018, 09:35:30 PM »
There are four separate pieces of refractory in the bottom of the G200 primary burn chamber. My center 2 pieces broke apart at the end of my second season and they did replace them under warranty. I would get the refractory and change them out instead of a temporary fix.

HeatMaster / Re: Stack temps
« on: December 09, 2018, 09:25:59 PM »
I checked mine when I knew it was really gassing hard. I got 351 degrees (F) and my secondary burn chamber down under was glowing red. This was at the top of my stack which is 7 1/2 feet tall.

HeatMaster / Stack temps
« on: December 06, 2018, 09:59:37 PM »
Not sure if this question has been asked before but has anyone tested the stack temps on their gasser when running wide open? Is there any tech data that says what it should be? I have the G200.

I plan on testing mine tomorrow as it's supposed to be our coldest day so far this year.

HeatMaster / Re: Temperature settings
« on: December 03, 2018, 09:58:21 PM »
Ditto on the coals also. I load my G200 twice a day and getting the hang of matching the wood amount to the temperature load is the trick to ending up with that good coal bed every 12 hours or so.

HeatMaster / Re: Temperature settings
« on: December 02, 2018, 07:17:19 PM »
I was just wondering what the high limit is RSI?

Does the higher settings reduce moisture in the primary chamber mlappin (especially in lighter load times)?

HeatMaster / Re: Temperature settings
« on: November 29, 2018, 08:04:17 PM »
Appreciate the responses. How about any Heatmaster gasser owners, have any of you guys tried higher operating temps and if so why and what results have you seen?

HeatMaster / Temperature settings
« on: November 27, 2018, 11:16:29 PM »
Hey guys question for you. I have a friend who has a CB gasser. He says he raised his operating water temp settings from 180/160 to 185/170 to help eliminate moisture in his primary combustion chamber.

Have any of you guys done or heard of people doing this on CB or any brand gassers? I get condensation/creosote on the inside of mine especially during light load times. Seems like you'll use more wood if you raise the temps also.

HeatMaster / Re: I think my g-200 has brain damage
« on: November 18, 2018, 08:36:51 PM »
Call your dealer or the factory, they've always been helpful to me.

HeatMaster / Re: G200 water flow
« on: November 13, 2018, 09:31:09 PM »
Thanks d5knapp, I have never checked my stack temp but I think I will for the heck of it this winter. I have 3 speed pumps for my loops and I will check the temp on all 3 speeds to see if there is any difference.

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