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Topics - WoodMOJoe

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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Plate heat exchanger flushing fluid?
« on: December 04, 2017, 11:26:30 AM »
What liquid would be recommended for flushing a flat plate heat exchanger?

White Vinegar?-Straight or diluted?
Coil Cleaner?-I think I have some DiversiTech Pro-Green Indoor Coil Cleaner that I used on the A/C condenser this spring
Liquid Unobtanium?

Any tips or tricks?

I have a puddle pump and my ball valves on the flat plate have flushing ports.

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Door Gasket?
« on: June 12, 2015, 10:22:47 AM »
I need to replace the door gasket on my homemade firebreather and wondered what you all thought of this type/brand?

Rutland Grapho-Glas Stove Gasket Black Fiberglass Rope Tape

My door is a 20" x 20" that I bought pre-assembled from Earth Manufacturing here in SW MO.

Electronics / Aquastat for high limit cutoff?
« on: March 01, 2015, 10:49:43 AM »
I am well into my 2nd season of heating with my homemade OWB, and very happy with it.

When I built it I put a 190 degree snap disc limit switch in the fan circuit.  I either put it in the wrong spot (where it is "seeing" a heat hotter than my aquastat) or it is kicking out at a lower temp (defective), and kicking the fan out at too low a temp, so I took it out of the circuit within days of firing up the unit last year and have been running without a dedicated high limit. 

I am using the common Ranco aquastat for my fan control now and was wondering...can I use another identical ranco aquastat for a high limit switch on the fan, just in case the first aquasat malfunctioned?

And if so, how would I wire it in?

Or is there another way to have a high limit switch on the fan that would be better?

General Discussion / Parts is parts? Doors and Shaker Grate
« on: June 14, 2014, 06:03:24 AM »
Getting ready to build another boiler with my neighbor, for him.

It's going to be a large "conventional" unit, and will heat 2 homes and a small shop building.

Looking for a source for a shaker grate assembly (want to have the option of coal burning), and ash removal and wood loading doors. 

We have found one source (Royall), but was wondering if you all knew of any other manufacturers that would sell components like this, direct to an end user?

Equipment / Gasoline preference?
« on: February 18, 2014, 07:54:35 PM »
Lots of opinions here on oil types and mixing ratios but was wondering what you folks thought about gasoline?

In particular...

Is it a good idea to use ethanol-free fuel if possible?

And what about octane?  I think all the "regular" gasoline (87 octane) around here has at least 10% ethanol, but believe you can get "mid-grade"  (89 or possibly 91 octane) fuel that is ethanol-free.  Does it hurt/is it beneficial to run a higher octane (over 87), whether it has ethanol or not?

I have a brand new, never fueled Husky 455, planning on using Husqvarna 2-stroke oil @ 50:1 and would like to put it on the best fuel diet I could to start with and keep it there.  Hoping it lasts as long as my 30 yr old Stihl 028.

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Insulating Earth Door?
« on: January 29, 2014, 07:09:54 AM »
Was wondering if anyone had done it, or thoughts concerning...

I bought a pre-built Earth brand 20" x 20" door for my homemade build.  The door has a plate of steel that is spaced off the outside of the door about an inch into the firebox.

Was considering stuffing that 1" gap with some high heat fiber insulation, thoughts?

Electronics / Using 2nd thermostat to control blower only?
« on: January 08, 2014, 05:33:47 PM »
I know this has been discussed here before but my searching brought up nothing that made sense for my specific situation, so...

My system...propane upflow furnace w/AC, homemade outdoor boiler (online soon I hope!).

I am wanting to use a second thermostat to control the blower when the OWB is producing heat, and my existing thermostat to fire up the propane unit if the OWB fails to hold the heat up.   I was planning on using a cheap programmable t-stat (probably a Honeywell) for the 2nd t-stat, but would be glad to hear any recommendations.

***Here are pics of my existing wiring at the back of the t-stat and where that wiring connects to the propane furnace.  I guess the extra red and white wire at the furnace go out to the A/C compressor.***  Let me know if you need any more info, thanks.

***The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.***

Can't get the 2-75K pics to post, keep getting this message:

The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Grundfos 15-58 Check Valve?
« on: November 21, 2013, 12:14:01 PM »
There is a little white plastic piece in the outlet end of my pump.  Is that the check valve and do I want it in there?

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Heat gun on pex?
« on: November 21, 2013, 08:20:51 AM »
I am trying to help eliminate some 90s on my hx hookups in the basement and was wondering if it is ok to use a hair dryer or heat gun to help bend the pex into shape?

Plumbing / Outside plumbing at homebuilt boiler
« on: November 19, 2013, 09:39:42 AM »
I finally got my homebuilt set on its foundation yesterday and was hoping for some input on my connections at the outdoor unit.  I will be enclosing the unit in an insulated metal shell eventually, but might run it "naked" at first to verify operation and watertightness.  It held an air test for about 2 weeks before I let the pressure off so not expecting any issues there.

I have provisions for 2 loops off the back of the boiler but will only be using one for now.  The 1" steel pipes with the blue thread caps are my returns and the 1" bungs on the lower half of the back of the unit are for supply.  Figured I would use a supply bung on the left half and a return pipe on the right (or vice versa) to facilitate tank mixing.

I am planning on putting my pump in the basement, and will be going through a 20 plate for my DHW and then a 19x20 hx that is in the plenum of my upflow gas furnace.

If my pump is in the house do I need to do anything, or make any other provisions besides just hooking the 2-1" pex lines to the respective supply and return bungs?  I do have ball valves to put on each line out at the furnace also.

Was also wondering if I should extend the steel return piping down below the level of the horizontal flue pipe, am worried about the heat it might get if the pex was above the height of the flue?

This is my first install so any thoughts and suggestions are most welcome, thanks.

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

Plumbing / General Plumbing questions
« on: May 16, 2013, 02:07:32 PM »
Now that my stove is finished (see pics in "Homemade" section) I am trying to get my parts list together for my plumbing fittings.   

My system will consist of OWB about 50' from the house, 20-plate HX for DHW and water-to-air hx in the plenum of my upflow furnace. 

Pump will be mounted in the basement near the furnace and water heater.  OWB will be the high point of system, and I am guessing there will be a difference of 6-7 feet from the high and low points of the system.

Was wondering:

Where should I place ball valves on the system?  I thought it might be a good idea to have them on all the hx ports to facilitate removal/replacement but without a "union" type fitting to break the piping down, do they do any good?  I figured I would need ball valves on the supply and return line out on the stove also, of course.

What about fill/drain ports and/or bleeder valves?  Was planning on doing most of the filling through the top of the stove (2" pipe) but wondered if I needed a hose bib or something on a line down in the basement, that I could use to prime the system?

Any thoughts or advice on the tricks you have learned on plumbing are most welcome.

Here is a pic of my equipment in the basement:

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

Plumbing / HX (water-to-air) ?s
« on: April 18, 2013, 07:30:15 AM »
I have an upflow propane furnace in my basement and plan on installing my hx in the main vertical plenum, about a foot above my a-coil, right below where it hits the horizontal trunk that feeds the whole house.

The vertical plenum is about 20" x 20", but I don't think a 20" x 20" hx would fit in that space, too tight.

Would you use a 19" by 20" in this situation?

Do you just attach a couple of small pieces of sheet metal angle to the insides of the duct to support the hx? 

Also, it seems that all the hx inlet ports I have seen are sweat connections.  Do I need to use a threaded adapter that sweats inside (male) the ports, outside (female), or does it matter? 

I am a total greenhorn when it comes to sweat soldering but it's time I learned.   ;)

Plumbing / Pex connections: Cinch...Clamp...$harkbite...or?
« on: April 15, 2013, 09:01:53 AM »
I have done quite a bit of PVC and CPVC, some black and galvanized steel, but I am a total novice when it comes to pex (and sweated copper for that matter).

What do you guys prefer/like/use to make your pex connections?  Brands, suppliers, tools?

It looks like there are 3 main types of connectors...cinch, clamp and "$harkbite$")?

From what research I have done I am leaning towards the cinch type but am open to all suggestions.

Are there some situations where you have to use a $harkbite just because it is impossible to get a cinch/crimp tool in a restricted space?

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Anode Rod...Good Idea?
« on: April 13, 2013, 06:55:14 PM »
I am building a OWB and was wondering if it would be a good idea to put in an anode rod?  I have a couple spare 1/2" and 1" bungs to poke something in, if needed.

Here in the MO Ozarks we have karst topography, lots of limestone and caves, and hard water. 

I am planning on filling the stove with my untreated, unsoftened well water. and using boiler treatment, of course.

Do any/some/most factory built OWBs have anode rods?  And if I was to put one in...magnesium or aluminum?

Plumbing / Drywells for Aquastat/Thermometer?
« on: April 13, 2013, 08:00:04 AM »
Could anyone give me a link for a drywell that is suitable to install my aquastat probe and/or a thermometer?

I have 1/2" and 1" bungs available to place the drywells in...thanks.

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