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[racnruss]

My Father in law has an H2. 

This past weekend I cut a piece of steel 16" x 16" and 3/8"thick.  We hung this plate of steel a couple inches below the top of the firebox just under the chimney hole.
This created a plate that the fire will have to go around before getting out the chimney, hopefully creating an increase in efficiency due to the heat being forced to travel closer to the sides and top of the firebox.

I should have taken some pictures but I'm sure its easy to picture with your imagination.   I'll check with him in a few days to see if he thinks its making any difference.

It always bugged me when I'd open the door and see the fire just rushing right out of the top.

[hondaracer2oo4]

The h4s have this plate. I have an h4 and extended the flue pipe down 10 inches into the firebox and the. Hung the plate from the bottom if the flue pipe extension. It seemed to help with efficiency.

[AirForcePOL]

I would be interested if he sees any changes in wood consumption or not.  I have always thought about doing this.  How did you suspend the plate from the top of the firebox?  I always thought about building a frame on the sides of the firebox to suspend a plate like that.

[racnruss]

Air Force,

we hung the plate with 3 sections of 3/16" cable, about 30" long. 

First we drew a 6" circle in the middle of the plate and then drilled three 1/4" holes equal distance apart on the circle.  We fed each cable through a hole and clamped a 1/8" cable clamp on the end to stop the cable from sliding through.

At the top he has a black pipe to class A chimney adapter on top of the stove.  We drilled 3 holes in the side of it to pass the cable through.  Once through, we put a washer and another cable clamp on the outside of the pipe.  Then we could slide the cables in and out to achieve the proper height we wanted and level.

Also, we had drilled a 1/2" hole in the middle of the plate to pass a rope through.  This helped in lifting the plate into place and holding it there while we got the cables set close to final placement.  Then we just took the rope out.

I got the steel for free and the hardware cost about 15 bucks.  This way there was no alterations or welding to the stove itself.  And the black pipe to chimney adaptor is about a 15 dollar part at Menards if we ever have to replace it.

[racnruss]

Well, a follow up on the homemade efficiency plate for the H2.

Talked to F in Law today and he thinks that the plate is a good thing and saving him some wood.  Now I know, it would be easy to imagine wood savings just because we want to believe it is happening...but, there may be some evidence to prove it.


He says that the door on his Hardy is hot to the touch now, whereas before the door never got hot to the touch.   This would support the idea that heat is banking out from the new plate and touching the sides of the firebox more.  Because he is seeing an increase in his  door temp, it is logical to believe that the sides and back of the firebox are having an increase also.

So far it looks like it was worthwhile.

[jnicol6600]

I extended my flue down on my h2 about 6 or 8 inches this year. I kept it even with the top of the door so it didnt take up too much room. Its been so darned cold I dont know if it helped or not

[hondaracer2oo4]

Any of your guys with H2s tried that auger bit the Hardy dealer from somewhere in the midwest was selling? You can do the same thing if you just get the 6 inch auger bit from Harbor Freight. I think it was about 60 bucks. Its suppose to force the flue gasses against the flue pipe which is touching the water jacket on the way up the stack.

[AirForcePOL]

Do you know if that auger will fit good inside the flue pipe?  They have the 6" auger bit for $50 plus 20% off any one item right now.  If it will just fit right in I might go buy one.