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[dwneast77]

About a month ago I put this air channel together made from black pipe.  Until last Feb. I fought with the original air channels plugging up with creosote and ash with no good way to clean them out.  Last Feb, I had a welder here and we came up with a channel that brought the air up to the top of the firebox (sort of copying the P&M Opt. 250 as well as my Wood Doctor HE10000 designs).  It  got me through the season and I'll hang on to it for emergencies if I ever need it again.  The problem with that design is that it didn't give me even flow of air over the fire.  My hottest fire was around the nozzle but did not spread out accross to the sides or front and back.  This caused a substantial amount of bridging. 

So here is my new design.  Took me a little time figuring out sizing of pipes but I got it right on the first try and it has been working very well.  Most importantly, IT IS EASILY REMOVABLE FOR CLEANING. 

Total cost for this fix was about $135 and about 1 hour to put it together.  No welder needed.  Last year I had the welder cut out the back portion of the original air channel to allow access to the air inlet hole.  If there is ever a warranty (yeah right) issue, I can have it welded back in pretty easily. 

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[Ohiowood]

I use a bent hoe to clean the sides every day, takes seconds. When needed I run a flexible wire, like a drier vent cleaner though all the holes.

Hope that works out well for you.

[Roger2561]

downeast - I really like your design upgrade.  What size black pipe are you using?  Does it fit through the firebox door without disassembly when it needs cleaning?  I'm seriously thinking of trying something like this myself but will wait until burn season comes to an end.  The other issue I'm messing with is, how do I block the air holes along the sides and the back if I want to stay with the new upgrade?  I don't want creosote to get in there and corrode everything, plus I want to be sure that I can easily remove whatever I use if there is ever a warranty issue. 

[dwneast77]

This is the parts list and a sketch I did the other day for someone.

Ohiowood -  I used to try to do the same thing, but it was just full of crud.  Beyond that, the channel was beginning to fall apart.  I had a bad crack 2 years ago.  When I had a welder in to fix it, we actually cut out a square  in that spot to clean out the channel as best as we could then welded it closed again.  One year later that area was splitting open again.  I'll attach a photo.  And now it is still continuing to split and peal open.  Rediculous I think, for the age.

Roger -  Inlet pipe starts with 2", down to 1 1/4" going to each side.  Half way up each side I down-sized to 1".  I didn't plan to but my True Value store didn't have enough 5 or 6" nipples to finish construction.  1" is plenty from that point anyway I would say.  My fire is actually a little hotter at the front so I know it's getting plenty of air there.  Not sure how to block your holes.  Mine are open, it's full of crud back there.  I would have to cut it all out of mine.  The top edge of my original channel is loose so creosote flows right down the walls and in behind there.  I do have the spacer bar kit installed which keeps the firewood from fetching up on the new channel.  That would be a consideration to keep in mind since I think your air channel is built into the wall.  The channel is easily removable and does fit through the door at an angle and then drops right down.  I use my 5' crowbar to help lift the back end up to slide it into place.  Regarding warranty, all I have to do is have a welder come in and put the back portion of the channel back in place and of course re-do the side channels as well since they are pretty well junk.