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[Red97]

Ok, I just built and installed my first boiler, as seen in the "homemade" section. It has been working ok all winter but it has a few minor problems, and I had so much fun building this boiler I just want to make a new upgraded version.

basic ideas for the new build, feel free to ad input,

48" of 37" id propane tank flat on both ends, no stupid dome

8x8 or 10x10 ash pan welded to the bottom of the fire box, that will allow the whole diameter to be filled with wood flat grates on the bottom

forced draft under the grates and above

some sort of hx with the flue, similar to portage & main ml36 start at the rear gases come to the front then travel to the rear then out the flue 8" dia.

undecided on tubes through the top of the fire box for extra heat transfer

waterjacket will be 1/8" square with braces on the walls.

Looking for some advise. thank you

[slimjim]

Take a really good look at our new one, the B-L series from P+M, you might find a new idea or two there.

[Scott7m]

To thin for your water jacket,  go with 3/16 if possible

[Rstory]

So you think grates will improve the furnace.

[Red97]

The grates should help a lot, with air coming up from under the fire should burn hotter and more efficient.

 Scott, why 3/16 over 1/8? is it a longevity thing or durability for holding the weight? just wondering? my current boiler has 1/4" waterjacket it is way overkill and a lot more expensive.

It appears the p&m bl series doesn't have water around the bottom of the stove? Does anybody know why? Is it just to keep temps up and the bricks hot?

Any opinions on tubes across the top of the fire box? I also like the idea of a water filled baffle at the rear of the fire box to keep smoke and gasses burning longer.

Thank you for the input.

[slimjim]

It is also sectional, think how easy it would be to patch when it leaks, take it apart, no crawling through the door to weld and when it gets really bad we sell you a new tank, we will always be able to replace parts like a tank even after the new rules

[Red97]

 

Easy little square is 2'' if you are wondering any other measurement.
I drew up some plans for the new boiler. Let me know what you think? It will be a little over 400 gallons if I make a square water jacket. Is that too much water for the fire box size? Thank you Joe.

[slimjim]

I hope you never need to patch those heat traps in the top of it, I hate welding overhead!

[Red97]

Slim, do you think the extra transfer would be worth it? My plan was to set the firebox on the mill and mill slots 4" deep and use 2x4 1/4" tube and use a 2x12 for the large heat baffle.

[slimjim]

  No I think a heat trap in the back would be fine, insulate it well and firebrick anything you can in the firebox

[BoilerHouse]

  No I think a heat trap in the back would be fine, insulate it well and firebrick anything you can in the firebox

+1.  Let the fire burn hot and take advantage of your heat exchanger by allowing the heat transfer to happen there.  Make sure the heat exchanger has access doors for cleaning.  If it works as it should it will be a brush-able powder rather than a caked on film.

[Red97]

I had planned on having a door on the front for the heat exchanger. I want to use some kind of brick/refractory on the lower half of the fire box. Probably just below half way. Will the water jacket on the bottom cause condensation problems behind the bricks? I think I am just going to do one large water filled baffle at the rear, Probably 3x12. thank you for the replies

[BoilerHouse]

You shouldn't have any problems with condensation by operating within normal temperature ranges. I am not aware of any condensation with mine.  Not a bad idea to remove the brick in the spring, clean it up, and coat the firebox with oil.