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[stratton]

Looking for advice -
I am adding an 80 gallon buffer tank. Pipe from boiler to buffe will be 1.25 inches. Ports on buffer tank are only three quarter inch. Will there be a restriction problem? the tank is a hot water heater so there is no coil inside. Do you guys think this will work or do I need a tank with 1.25 inch. I really do not want to return this tank if I dont have to.

Luke

[slimjim]

Not sure why you require a buffer tank? are your return temps really low when a quick heavy heat load happens or what is it you are trying to accomplish?

[Steinacher Sales]

Need, more information on what you are doing. Why so big lines running to the buffer tank?

Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726

[Sprinter]

Wow?

You will be fine with your 3/4" taps as long as you combine several. Is this a gas or electric tank?

I use 2-3  3/4" bungs for the supply and an equal amount for return. You will make a header for S&R, you will increase the size as soon as possible. Now that you have two large S&R lines, put a tee on each. One side of the tee to boiler, other side to load (house).
What this does is divide the velocity between the combined 3/4" bungs, this will reduce or eliminate turbulence that might die stratify the tank.
Look at the Tarm, or varmobeneen storage tanks, they too are single fed lines, piped in reverse return if more than one tank is used. Don't forget, it's very easy to just weld on larger sized bungs exactly where you want them. For stuff I need AWS certified my guy is $69/2"bung plus bung cost. And he's done 4 for a hundy when I prepped it. I have two 120 gal and 1-75 gal waiting to be done now.

Gas water heater= top 2-3 bung to supply
Drain and gas valve for return.

Electric water heaters, benefit of side heater element bungs, anywhere from 1"-1.25" more than enough for 8 GPM flow without destrat.

[stratton]

Thanks for the helpful pointers. slim you hit the nail on the head. current setup really works well.I am trying to achieve more of a flywheel effect. this is quick overview of house setup.
  a.2in primary loop
  b 1.25 tied into primary
  c.42 gal in boiler
  d temp drops 20 deg on first run for heat  Im looking for a little hourse power with the extra btus
 

[slimjim]

You might try using those ports piped to the primary manifold using mono flow tees and separate them so they purposely ghost flow to the tank, Sprinter made a good point in using 1 inch to the tank and reducing right at the tank.

[stratton]

 Slim, forgot to add another detail. I was going to pipe from boiler to buffer and back to boiler. Im very appreciative for  the advice, but ill have to consult with my plumber. You guys lost me with some terminology.it will be basic for him but its latin to me.
     Slim on a side note, i graduated from UNITY COLLEGE back in '84' Is that your neck of the woods?? thx Luke

[slimjim]

Unity, thats where all the hippies hang out at the common ground fair.

[Sprinter]

Why are you using 2" for headers, do you really have that big of a load? That's what I use on commercial or farms with several greenhouses or buildings. You just need to pipe for 2-4' per second velocity. 1.25-1.5 ID's covers most .   What type of tank you have?

[stratton]

Sprinter the house primary loop is 2in pipe.i was told by my plumber it is an old gravity system. The tank im using is electric hot water heater.
I will post pictures later tonight, thx for taking interest in my little project......

[stratton]

sprinter some new pics also some pics of my wood pile.

[Sprinter]

Is it still gravity or has it been converted?

With that American it will most likely have 1" ports where the elements are, just remove them and use those for S&R as long as you keep velocity low , you won't have problems.

Now you will have an air eliminator/ dirt separator / buffer in one.

[stratton]

Sprinter, thx