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[mlappin]

Came up awhile ago about using a P&M 250 Optimizer as a forge, I use this instead.

Have had a few uses for this, today was getting a broken stub shaft out that a walking tandem pivots on. Tried numerous times in the field to get this apart, even had three torches with rosebuds and still couldn't get enough heat. Redneck forge did it with no problems today.


Bottom third of a 55 gallon drum, originally just had the slots cut in bottom with the thought a natural draft would be hot enough, it wasn't. Added the piece of pipe with three 3/32nd holes drilled in it, hook the air hose to it and run a few pounds of pressure. Set the drum on several bricks, then use more bricks on the inside to limit the amount of charcoal it takes.





Bricks and charcoal with the rock shaft assembly about to be lowered in. Usually dump one small bag of charcoal in, light that then after it's taken off add more.

[mlappin]

As the charcoal burns down just keep adding more to the top, usually keeping about 6-8 inches of coals under the piece creates the most heat.






Broken piece finally out, 2 1/2" shaft, 3/8" wall tube it's in. Takes a lot of heat to get that much mass red hot all the way thru. Was rusted together enough with the torches the inner shaft absorbed most of the heat even though we were just heating the socket it slid into. Heated it for a couple hours yesterday then let it completely cool, reheated today and it popped right out with a inch driver and a 3 lb maul.

[mlappin]

Good picture of just how hot regular old charcoal can get with a little o2 added. Starting don't even have enough pressure to make a 0-120 pound gauge read, pressure will have to be turned up a little as you go so the ash doesn't block the holes in the barrel. Was maybe running 3-4lbs after burning up five 8 pound bags of charcoal. Too much air  though doesn't make it much hotter, but you can almost watch the level of the charcoal drop.