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[mlappin]

Buried the 125' of Logstor to the shop today, wasn't that bad actually except the getting across the 25' of main driveway took longer than digging the other 100'. Could just scratch the surface, barely. Needed a full size excavator instead of the Bobcat mini. Did slide six inch schedule 40 over the Logstor to protect it at the main drive as well as 6 inches of sand in the bottom of the trench and another 6" over it.

Anyways, from the OWB to the house is next one of these days. 15 years ago I made my own by wrapping insulation around 4" PVC then sliding that inside a 6" PVC. Worked great for a lot of years but the last 2 or 3 have spots it's been melting the snow off while the rest of the yard will have at a least a foot.

Plan was to dig it up on the corner about 20' from the house where it heads towards the OWB, pull the 4" and insulation out then slide the Logstor inside the 6" into the basement then run a new trench to the OWB. Will also be sliding a piece of 3/4" conduit in with it as well as plastic water line to the stove for a hydrant. Don't need the hydrant so much for willing the stove but the one line to a hydrant we used to use rotted off years ago and it is steel line, so waste of time fixing it as it will must likely just leak elsewhere.

Anyways after sliding this all inside the six inch I thought if closed cell foam could be had in a can, I'd just squirt a few cans full in each end to seal the water out. Have also though about just buying a case of silicone caulk and burning up half a case of caulk in each end. Any other ideals anyone?

[MerrellRoofing]

Flex Seal. I think that's what they call it. The stuff they spray on the screen door in the bottom of the boat.

[mlappin]

Would it fill big gaps? Or use just any old foam then spray it over the foam once it's cured?

[MerrellRoofing]

It might work over foam. I'm not sure it works at all. I wouldn't get in that boat and go for a ride.

[lindnova]

I have used the foam in a can.  It works good.  Doesn't go very far and big gaps can be hard to seal completely, but will do what you want to.

I would NOT use silicone caulk.  It is not designed to seal more than 1/2" and will just make a mess for you if you are sealing huge gaps.

I have the 4" insulated PVC with 1" pipes inside.  It is not the recommended way now, but works quite well for me.  I left both sides open.  I figure the one in the basement (lower) would let me know if water was getting in.  I don't remember what I have at the furnace, but I probably have some sort of draft stop there.

[GCTerpfan]

My understanding is the foam in the can is open-cell which is NOT water proof.  I don't know of any closed cell product that comes in a can.  You can buy DIY closed cell spray kits but they are for larger areas and were upwards of $600 when I looked into it.

[LittleJohn]

I think it would be better to leave the lower end open, and provide a spill way in case of leak.  That way you will know if your jacket has been comprimised, otherwise with both ends seal it will just fill with water and you will never know you have sprung a leak.

[yotehunter66]

Can you get a cap and drill two 1 1/4" holes run your lines through them and the silicone around them? That's what I did where it comes out by the burner.

[mlappin]

I think it would be better to leave the lower end open, and provide a spill way in case of leak.  That way you will know if your jacket has been comprimised, otherwise with both ends seal it will just fill with water and you will never know you have sprung a leak.

My thought on both ends was in a year like this the ground is extremely saturated no matter the depth buried, foaming both ends would help keep the ground water where it belongs.

[mlappin]

Can you get a cap and drill two 1 1/4" holes run your lines through them and the silicone around them? That's what I did where it comes out by the burner.

Well it would be the two pex lines, a 3/4" conduit and a 1" water line for a hydrant.

[prormk800]

Here is what I used to cap off the ends picked them up at Menards.