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[jimr]

The gasket I used is 1x1/4"

[slimjim]

I was going to try and sell you some of our new silicone coated rope gasket but at this point it is only in 1 inch, try cleaning it with a wire brush and then apply a thin coat of high temp silicone, work it into the rope as best you can and let it dry before closing the door, about 1/16 inch thick will do the trick.

[jimr]

thanks, I was going to try that

[Jim-NH]

I also have a leaky Shaver Furnace. Model 340. It was purchased in 2008 and installed in 2009.  The floor pan is leaking in multiple locations.  I did all required water treatments and tests. 

I have questions on how the stove is constructed. My main question is whether the end plates of the firebox are welded to the floor pan.  My planned repair was to cutoff wheel or plasma cut the sides just above the factory side to floorpan weld. 

I also am interested to speak with anyone who has done past repairs on a shaver furnace.  Is it bad steel or just where rust sits on the bottom during offseason.  Has anyone considered an anode rod like in a domestic hot water heater?  Would this help? 

The factory warranty sucks, they don't even return phone calls.  If you have a leaky Shaver furnace please send me your contact info and experience, I am starting a list to seek action.   

Thanks Jim-NH

[Scott7m]

I also have a leaky Shaver Furnace. Model 340. It was purchased in 2008 and installed in 2009.  The floor pan is leaking in multiple locations.  I did all required water treatments and tests. 

I have questions on how the stove is constructed. My main question is whether the end plates of the firebox are welded to the floor pan.  My planned repair was to cutoff wheel or plasma cut the sides just above the factory side to floorpan weld. 

I also am interested to speak with anyone who has done past repairs on a shaver furnace.  Is it bad steel or just where rust sits on the bottom during offseason.  Has anyone considered an anode rod like in a domestic hot water heater?  Would this help? 


The factory warranty sucks, they don't even return phone calls.  If you have a leaky Shaver furnace please send me your contact info and experience, I am starting a list to seek action.   

Thanks Jim-NH

The ones I've personally saw were a combo of bad welds and bad steel.

I'm not a believer in anode rods and believe they can actually be detrimental to the boiler. 

If you start with clean quality steel to build the stove and use a proper chemical, I don't think you'd have any corrosion issues.  However if you start with pitted and already rusty steel, it's not gonna last. 

[gandgracing]

I also have a leaky Shaver Furnace. Model 340. It was purchased in 2008 and installed in 2009.  The floor pan is leaking in multiple locations.  I did all required water treatments and tests. 

I have questions on how the stove is constructed. My main question is whether the end plates of the firebox are welded to the floor pan.  My planned repair was to cutoff wheel or plasma cut the sides just above the factory side to floorpan weld. 

I also am interested to speak with anyone who has done past repairs on a shaver furnace.  Is it bad steel or just where rust sits on the bottom during offseason.  Has anyone considered an anode rod like in a domestic hot water heater?  Would this help? 

The factory warranty sucks, they don't even return phone calls.  If you have a leaky Shaver furnace please send me your contact info and experience, I am starting a list to seek action.   

Thanks Jim-NH

Once you cut the bottom off you will see why it has rusted.  I couldn't believe how much welding slag they had left in there.

[fletcher0780]

1x1/4 nomex strip