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[Roger2561]

Hi folks, I am by no means a plumber or an expert in this stuff but I know there are a lot of people in here who are a lot smarter than I am so here goes;  I have the CB 1" Thermopex piping with a Taco 009-F5 circ at the OWB.  The HX is approx. 75 feet from the OWB.  The high set point is 190 at the OWB and approx. a degree or 2 loss before the HX.  The HX is a 50 plate, 12X5 brazed HX.  The water temp out of the HX is 170.  Because I'm using baseboard emitters I'd like to get that temp up some (ideal would be 180 after the HX) what size HX would you recommend that I replace it with to achieve a 180 degree temp (10 degree delta T) out of the HX? 

I'm learning so much from you guys in this site but I still have questions & concerns about things so don't be surprised if you see me asking more questions in the future.  My younger bro and I built an apartment on the second floor of my house for him and one thing I have learned from that project, I HATE PLUMBING!   Roger 

[slimjim]

The 50 plate is fine Roger, Try a bit larger circ on the Wood Boiler side of the exchanger.

[Roger2561]

The 50 plate is fine Roger, Try a bit larger circ on the Wood Boiler side of the exchanger.

Slimjim, Thanks for the reply.  What would you recommend?  Roger

[slimjim]

Wellllll, lets see, we all know you like green for a color, I personally like yellow tractors and red circulators, how about a Grundfos 26-99 3 speed and give it a shot on medium speed, Sorry Roger I just couldn't resist on the colors thingy!!!

[Roger2561]

Wellllll, lets see, we all know you like green for a color, I personally like yellow tractors and red circulators, how about a Grundfos 26-99 3 speed and give it a shot on medium speed, Sorry Roger I just couldn't resist on the colors thingy!!!

 

[cando attitude]

Hi folks, I am by no means a plumber or an expert in this stuff but I know there are a lot of people in here who are a lot smarter than I am so here goes;  I have the CB 1" Thermopex piping with a Taco 009-F5 circ at the OWB.  The HX is approx. 75 feet from the OWB.  The high set point is 190 at the OWB and approx. a degree or 2 loss before the HX.  The HX is a 50 plate, 12X5 brazed HX.  The water temp out of the HX is 170.  Because I'm using baseboard emitters I'd like to get that temp up some (ideal would be 180 after the HX) what size HX would you recommend that I replace it with to achieve a 180 degree temp (10 degree delta T) out of the HX? 

I'm learning so much from you guys in this site but I still have questions & concerns about things so don't be surprised if you see me asking more questions in the future.  My younger bro and I built an apartment on the second floor of my house for him and one thing I have learned from that project, I HATE PLUMBING!   Roger


Hi Roger,

Just a couple of thoughts..........as you stated the incoming water temperature from boiler is around 188-190 with temp drop.  Your target for your exit temp on the baseboard side is 180.  As these two temps approach each other, the required heat transfer area goes up significantly.  As Slim stated, you can increase flow on the boiler side and increase plate size.  Another way to get temp up is to reduce flow on the baseboard side although I'm not sure if that is an option in your case.

Also, not sure where your differential is set but if 190 is the max, and the differential is anywhere near the 8-10 range it says that on average your true water temperature will be right in the middle of these two points.

Can't help but comment on the tractor thingy


" A good day for me is piddling in the woods on tractor, cutting & gathering a little firewood for the boiler"

Reds my color........Farmall style

Cando

Cando

[Roger2561]

Hi folks, I am by no means a plumber or an expert in this stuff but I know there are a lot of people in here who are a lot smarter than I am so here goes;  I have the CB 1" Thermopex piping with a Taco 009-F5 circ at the OWB.  The HX is approx. 75 feet from the OWB.  The high set point is 190 at the OWB and approx. a degree or 2 loss before the HX.  The HX is a 50 plate, 12X5 brazed HX.  The water temp out of the HX is 170.  Because I'm using baseboard emitters I'd like to get that temp up some (ideal would be 180 after the HX) what size HX would you recommend that I replace it with to achieve a 180 degree temp (10 degree delta T) out of the HX? 

I'm learning so much from you guys in this site but I still have questions & concerns about things so don't be surprised if you see me asking more questions in the future.  My younger bro and I built an apartment on the second floor of my house for him and one thing I have learned from that project, I HATE PLUMBING!   Roger


Hi Roger,

Just a couple of thoughts..........as you stated the incoming water temperature from boiler is around 188-190 with temp drop.  Your target for your exit temp on the baseboard side is 180.  As these two temps approach each other, the required heat transfer area goes up significantly.  As Slim stated, you can increase flow on the boiler side and increase plate size.  Another way to get temp up is to reduce flow on the baseboard side although I'm not sure if that is an option in your case.

Also, not sure where your differential is set but if 190 is the max, and the differential is anywhere near the 8-10 range it says that on average your true water temperature will be right in the middle of these two points.

Can't help but comment on the tractor thingy


" A good day for me is piddling in the woods on tractor, cutting & gathering a little firewood for the boiler"

Reds my color........Farmall style

Cando

Cando

Cando - Thanks for the info.  To answer your question regarding temp diff. My high set point is 190 (sometimes it spikes as high as 195) as stated and the low set point is 183.  Are you saying to say increase the FPHX size as well as the circ?   

As for the Farmall; I learned to drive a tractor at a young age on my dad's Farmall Cub.  That was a fine small tractor; perfect size for a family farm.  The way my brothers and I operated the thing, it's s wonder it kept running.  After my Uncle decided he no longer needed his tractor, he sold his Farmall Super "A" to my dad for a $1.00.  One of my older brother's still has the tractor and like you he uses it to get to the woods to get his firewood for the upcoming heating season.  Now one of my younger brothers is restoring a Farmall "M" along with his son.  My brother wants my nephew to not be afraid to get his hands dirty and not count other people do the work for him, plus that's why they make soap.  Now my nephew has the bug and has purchased a Farmall "H" to restore when they are done with the "M".  Once in awhile I'll jump on older brother's "A" and go for a quick spin.  It takes me back to my younger years when life was seemingly more simple.     Roger   

[cando attitude]

Start with doing one at a time.  Your HX should be large enough.  I would first start by increasing the flow on the boiler side.  Overall, this is going to take some effort due to the fact that you're attempting to get your baseboard side temp so close to your feed temperature on the boiler side.

As stated previously, another way to get the temp up on the baseboard side of the HX would be to lower the flow rate of that side.

Cando

[Roger2561]

First of all I want to thank everyone who took the time to educate me on circs (I'm saving my pennies to purchase a Grundfos 26-99).  Now you've got me reading and I'm learning a lot about these things but there is one thing I cannot find any information; knowing that the OWB side of the system is an open system, does it matter if the circ is of bronze or cast iron construction?  I don't want to buy a circ that may corrode and be susceptible too early failure.  Thanks.  Roger