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[mlappin]

Weird on the solenoid, looks like a standard Dormeyer like I used on mine, still using the original solenoids and the holes don't look anything like that. Course mine are older so probably better material.

[RSI]

What kind of temperature is the boiler running at when heating the pool? Have you ever checked the return temps? Rotted out firebox and heating pool are common with poorly setup systems.

[rsprank65]

Good morning RSI,

When I originally installed my flat plate heat exchanger for my pool, I used the standard Central Boiler diagram. But I had three issues with that set-up...
1. Installing the Aquastat directly inline severely restricted my water flow.
2. My water would actually wear away the copper probe from the Aquastat.
3. With this set up the 3 way zone valve was either "ON" or "OFF" which created a tremendous drag on the furnace.

It took me about three seasons to perfect the heating of my pool. First, I took the damn Aquastat out of the water line. I use the "by-pass" line to control how much water is sent to the heat exchanger. Normally it is just cracked. Water will follow the path of least resistance, so the least resistance is the by-pass. By closing the by-pass valve I can "force" some water into the heat exchanger. My furnace is set at the Central Boiler standard 174 on and 185 off. By using this gradual way of heating the pool my water temps have not dipped below 170 before they start to rise.

And as a small insurance policy, I am using a home built timer to control the hours that the pool circulator pump runs. This helps to avoid the argument of whose turn it was to turn the pump off.

And another item that I found really helps is the addition of a solar blanket. I call it a blanket because it helps to keep the pool warm by trapping the heat "under the covers". The blanket also reduces the amount of evaporation that takes place. you would be surprised how much 'steam' comes off of a 85-88 degree pool on a 70 night!! I would have to put the loss at around an inch of water a night!!

I hope I did not wander too far away from your question.

Randy

[RSI]

Did you have the copper probe in the pool water line? If so, it is not surprising that it quickly failed. Copper is not compatible with pool chemicals. It might have even been turning your water green.

Is the plate heat exchanger a bolt together type or brazed? If brazed it is surprising it is lasting that long. The pool chemicals will eat the copper out of the brazing.

[rsprank65]

Good evening RSI,

Yes the probe was a copper and I do believe that the Chlorinated water quickly "ate" the probe.
The Heat Exchanger is a Flat Plate Stainless Steel (Marine Grade) Nickel-brazed for use in pools and hot tubs. They ain't cheap but they work wonders!!!

Randy

[boilerman]

If it is a marine grade stainless exchanger used on the pool it should be nickel brazed and will be fine...most indoor boiler plate exchangers are copper brazed which would be a quick failure in a chlorinated pool application. The aquastat used in the pools side monitoring should have been used with a stainless well not a copper well. Regarding pump issues, what is the PH and nitrite level of the water in our outdoor boiler? Your Eclassic should have come with a test kit.

[rsprank65]

Good afternoon Boilerman,

I could not locate my test kit, as the first one I left in the furnace and it froze, and since I didn't want to be called a "dumb-ass" by the wife again, I brought it inside so that I would know where to find it. I think we all have gone through that!!

I did have some PH papers from the pool test kit and it came out a real strong 9. I believe that is good.

What exactly does the Nitrite test me? I was always under the impression that it related to the amount of Corrosion Inhibitor I had in my system.

Thanks for the Feedback Boilerman!!

Randy

[Roscoe]

rsPrank65

Its good to hear someone actually talk about the negatives of their stove.

After spending THOUSANDS of dollars, most guys wont say a word about the problems of their stoves (unless they owned a wood doctor LOL) even tho they have them. I believe it helps others when we talk about them.

[rsprank65]

Thanks Roscoe!!
We all have made sizable investments to live our lifestyles. Some much more than others!! And let's not forget all the "extras" such as chainsaws, splitters, PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), and other equipment such as truck(s) or skid steers/loaders/back hoes...The list goes on...
Twelve years ago when I started with my venture into wood burning, I wish there was a Blog or forum out there such as this one to help guide some of "newbies".
In the beginning, and even today, there is a LOT of mis-information out there on OWF.
Too many people trying to burn pure trash and garbage.
Too much smoke.
That's why a lot of jurisdictions have out right BANNED the new installations of OWF.
Even here in Pennsylvania, all new OWF have to be EPA certified.
Information is key.
Information is POWER.
If we all share, good, bad or otherwise, we all become better informed.

Thanks again!!

Randy

[Jwood]

Thanks Roscoe!!
We all have made sizable investments to live our lifestyles. Some much more than others!! And let's not forget all the "extras" such as chainsaws, splitters, PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), and other equipment such as truck(s) or skid steers/loaders/back hoes...The list goes on...
Twelve years ago when I started with my venture into wood burning, I wish there was a Blog or forum out there such as this one to help guide some of "newbies".
In the beginning, and even today, there is a LOT of mis-information out there on OWF.
Too many people trying to burn pure trash and garbage.
Too much smoke.
That's why a lot of jurisdictions have out right BANNED the new installations of OWF.
Even here in Pennsylvania, all new OWF have to be EPA certified.
Information is key.
Information is POWER.
If we all share, good, bad or otherwise, we all become better informed.

Thanks again!!

Randy

 

[boilerman]

rsPrank65 - extreme high nitrite levels resulting from adding too much of corrosion inhibitor without testing can breakdown plastic pump impeller, seals, etc. that's why I was asking

[rsprank65]

Good morning Boilerman,

Thanks for the feedback!!
I have another Nitrite tester on the way. I did however find a test kit. I believe it is an older version. Maybe several years old. Do these chemicals deteriorate over time?
What would be an "extreme high level?"
As I was testing, my solution would indicate a pink color and when I swirled it would go clear. Once I got to 30 drops the color was almost purple, but as soon as I would swirl it around it would clear instantly. I stopped testing at 35 drops because I was getting no indication that it was slowing down.
So if the chemicals are still good the cure for these high levels would be...? Drain and dilute?

Thanks for your patience and expertise.

Randy

[aries9245]

Please keep us up to date I hope they do right by you and take care of your issue..

[Corneroffice]

Hey Randy, I have a similar issue going with my 2400 and was wondering how you made out with CB and the replacement kit?
Thanks!
Jody