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[monty3077]

I have been burning my new 6048 a month now and still am trying to figure everything out. Here in Ohio today it was really windy and cold.  Went out in the morning and the temp was 167 and had plenty of wood in it.   We turn the thermostat in the house down to 66 at night and when I get up I turn up to 69 or 70.  Is it normal for the water temp to get that low why the furnace is running for a while to get the house temp up? If so, would it be better to not fluctuate the house thermostat so much, that way it doesn't run as long to heat up 3 to 4 degrees? Owb is set to factory temp setting.   

[dwneast77]

I'm not familiar with the 6048 specifically, but that doesn't seem right to me.  You said it is set at factory settings, what are they?  There was plenty of wood in it, was it burning hot when you got to it? and did it recover quickly from that point?  It may have just taken a while for the fire to really get hot and with the demand of a 4 degree rise in your home might have been enough to bring the temp down, esp. depending on the size of your home and how long the fire was idle before the call for heat.  I don't know if this helps you at all.  I do keep my thermostat at a consistent temp.

[willieG]

I have been burning my new 6048 a month now and still am trying to figure everything out. Here in Ohio today it was really windy and cold.  Went out in the morning and the temp was 167 and had plenty of wood in it.   We turn the thermostat in the house down to 66 at night and when I get up I turn up to 69 or 70.  Is it normal for the water temp to get that low why the furnace is running for a while to get the house temp up? If so, would it be better to not fluctuate the house thermostat so much, that way it doesn't run as long to heat up 3 to 4 degrees? Owb is set to factory temp setting.

it is possable that yoru factory settings are off at 180 and on at 160.  You, finding the stove at 167 could have just showed up at the right time to see your stove falling from the 180 range and not ready to kick in yet ..or if your stove was running it may have jsut started or if it had been running a while there may have been a very small fire in the box as a result from you turning the thermostat down and maybe the stove only called for heat once all night resulting in a very slow burning coal bed. unless i am reading something wrong in your post there is a good chance your stove is working fine

[snakedriver]

Hi Monty,
Was the damper open or closed? Was the fire going or not? The factory settings are 185 and 175 (damper opens actually at 174 indicated).

We keep the vent and door to our bedroom closed in order to sleep in the cool. We do not adjust the thermostat. 
The temperature display has a "damper open" indication in the form of a dot between the first and second digits, much like a decimal point except on the upper part. Note that this is not necessarily a true indication; it is merely an indication that the signal has been sent to the solenoid in the door. The only way to know for sure if the damper is open, shut, or stuck (in my case, stuck open) is to take the louvered cover on the door which covers the solenoid and damper. 

Factory thermostat settings and an indication of 167 degrees should mean that the damper is open, supplying air to the fire. Sounds to me as if the fire goes out due to not enough requirement being placed on the system after your inside thermostat has been turned down. Try not adjusting it and leaving it set in order to troubleshoot.

Are you heating your hot water with the 6048? Is your wood seasoned (dry)?

Best,

Jerry

[snakedriver]

Monty,
One other thing, just fyi, is that the "swing" (ten degrees) is nonadjustable.  One may adjust the upper point but the lower point adjusts for the difference of ten degrees automatically.

Jerry

[muffin]

I have a 6048 too.  I think the default might be 180.  I know mine gets down in the 160s too.  If you add a  blower, that will help.  The natural draft is pretty slow at starting back up.

[monty3077]

Thanks for all replys.  I observed it today as much as I could and Muffin I think your right.   Once the damper opens it just takes awhile for the natural draft to get the fire going good again.  Damper does open at 174 like snake said just takes awhile to get back up to 185 with natural drift.   Will definitely look into the blower attachment.   Thanks. 

[snakedriver]

Monty, sounds as though it is working correctly and that the fire picks back up okay. The 6048 has a lot of water (393 gallons) to reverse the cooling. When the damper opens at 174 the water is still cooling off and will continue to do so until the fire resumes in full. It really doesn't matter how low the temperature gets (if the fire is still going) until the water temperature nears the 150-degree cutoff of the thermostatic valve.
Note also that the water will continue to heat above 185 after the damper closes, to some point. It swings past the upper and lower setpoints. All is good as long as the cycle continues.
Personally, I wouldn't fix it as it is working.

Nice heat, isn't it?    :-)

J

[muffin]

Monty, sounds as though it is working correctly and that the fire picks back up okay. The 6048 has a lot of water (393 gallons) to reverse the cooling. When the damper opens at 174 the water is still cooling off and will continue to do so until the fire resumes in full. It really doesn't matter how low the temperature gets (if the fire is still going) until the water temperature nears the 150-degree cutoff of the thermostatic valve.
Note also that the water will continue to heat above 185 after the damper closes, to some point. It swings past the upper and lower setpoints. All is good as long as the cycle continues.
Personally, I wouldn't fix it as it is working.

Nice heat, isn't it?    :-)

J

I agree.  I have a heavy, long term load on mine, heating a pool.  So I got the blower and it really helps a lot.  But the swings are not a problem unless you have heavy loads like mine.  The blower is awkward as it attaches to the door and sticks out a good ways.  You limit the door opening a bit.  So unless you really need it, I would stay with the natural draft.  You can also set the temp higher to assist.  I bump mine up in the winter to help.

[boilerman]

I also agree. The CB Classic design really does not need the blower fan on the door unless you have an extremely heavy heat load. Otherwise it will just push more heat out of the firebox, up the chimney and increase your wood consumption.