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[Ryan L]

 Hello, newbie here but a vetrin wood burner! I installed a new 5036 boiler last summer and last winter was my first year burning it, Love the stove! much better than the woodstoves in the house! But i did have 1 issue with the stove that my dealer called temp. creep, what happened approx. 3 times last year was the stove would increase in temp. just setting idle, slowly but surely the temp would rise degree by degree, until i would scrape the underside of the dampner door and where it meets the door, and i continued to do that about once weekly, seemed to work until i came home from work and found the temp. creeping again( max setting on auquastat is 180) i was at 190 and it continued to climb slowly but surely to say 198 until i kicked the furnace and hot water on to lower temp, went out and scraped the doorframe and rope seal, seemed to work, but this is hapeening on warm(60-70degree) days, my dealer has been helpful and sugessed door crack but found none, rope seal has a good crush line around it and dampner door seals well(checked with feeler guage) dealer suggested propping a wheelbarrel up in front of door too limit wind around dampner door, this has been my only worry with this stove i do not want it getting to hot when i am not around, has anyone else had this issue and if so what are some remidies! Thank you, Ryan

[slimjim]

Sounds to me like you may have too much draft from a high stack that is pulling a vacume on the boiler allowing fresh air to be drawn in from outside. If you have more stack than the original boiler came with you might try putting a barometric damper on in place of the clean out cap, this will break the draft

[Ryan L]

 i have the factory shipped 8 ft.(2 4' sections) installed with no cap,  i will remove 1 section and try that, i understand the hot flue pulling hard on the seals of the door and damper, anyone else with this issue, i would love to burn all summer but when it's 90deg. outside what will happen then??? could i adjust the door latch cam bolt to pull the door down tighter or will that increase the risk of door fractures? i only burn seasoned wood(not covered) but seam to get alot of the black crusty crosote,condensation, running down the damper door face and hardining of the rope seal at bottom of door? Thanks, Ryan

[Scott7m]

That's where your air seep is, likely where the hard creosote is. 

Don't be scared to death tho, we'll all have our furnaces boil at some point due to an air leak if we burn long enough.  There is a huge difference tho in one creeping up 5-8 degrees on a warm day vs one going from 170-212 in 20 minutes. When the rate of climb is real high it will boil hard and fast and could boil off to much water

But, with a slow creeper it sounds like your situation is manageable and likely easily fixed.  All the cramp gathers on your door though because the door is cold and condensates gather there, run down, soak into seals and ruin them. 

[Ryan L]

thanks so much for the advice! have been watching this fourm for a couple years, searching for questions i have had and usually find the answers on here, reguarding your reply, i have seen on here that people replace there door rope seal and silicone it to help fix this problem(seal stays somewhat flexible)? this was the first year on this stove and rope seal is hard on bottom. i have had 1 "boil" on stove, it was the first time i reqinized this problem and was on a sunday morning, went out and stove was at 205 and was about 15-20gal. low on water(think it was the damper door crusted up), never went that high again but don't want it to! What's the best treatment for the rope seal? This was what i thought all along as the rope will have a hard time sealing when it is rock hard??

[Scott7m]

You def need new rope, you may be able to prolong the life of your door seals by resilicoming them in, and then putting silicone on top of the rope seals so the rope is encased in silicone, it works on some models but I'm not sure about yours in particular

[slimjim]

We now have a new 1 inch silicone coated coated rope gasket that we are using on all our new stoves and sending out to our previous customers for replacement that works really well, not sure if it will work on your stove as I'm not sure what size yours is.

[MattyNH]

We now have a new 1 inch silicone coated coated rope gasket that we are using on all our new stoves and sending out to our previous customers for replacement that works really well, not sure if it will work on your stove as I'm not sure what size yours is.

How long is that rope suppose to last for?

[Scott7m]

It should last twice as long as a conventional

[Ryan L]

So is it common to have to replace the rope seal yearly?

[Scott7m]

Most boilers can go 3-4 years, but with your door not being insulated and being a relatively cool burn with cb it wouldn't surprise me..   I'm sure many folks with cb can go a good while but it does seem to be an issue for you

[slimjim]

I'm still using my original rope from 10 years ago, the key is to be sure it seals well because if not the creosote only gets worse.