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[DaveWertz]

I have a stihl farmboss 290. I have been cutting more wood than I ever thought I would, 30+ tress that my buddy wants dropped and I keep the wood. Well I have been blowing threw chains left and right with all that I am cutting. Im tired of sharpeining them all the time, they just dont stay sharp long. Im not sure exactly what chains they are all I know is that they are the stihl brand for a 20" bar.


What chains do you all use or prefer that will stay sharper longer, Mind you I dont get down in the dirt and stones with it and its almost ALL hard oak.

What sharpeining items do you all prefer? I use old fashioned hand files but that is getting old quick. I have a dremel tool but do not have the attachments to sharpen a chainsaw chain. I need something that works quick in the field and wont butcher my chain.

[Scott7m]

Hmm....  I use stihl full chisel chains, I can literally cut 12 pick up loads of wood without touching it with a file, as long as I never let it touch soil or anything beside wood.  That's with a new chain, now after I initially sharpen it, I can't go as many again before touching it up

Most people go way overboard and waste time when all it need is a quick touch up that only takes 2 minutes. 

I take special steps to insure my chain stays sharp, I never attempt to cut all the way through a tree on the ground, I use a cant hook, and if there is dirt on a log where it's been skid, it only takes an extra minute to knock off some spots so my chain doesn't have to go through the dirt. 

I see guys who go out with several chains to cut wood for a few hours and can't believe it.... 

[DaveWertz]

We got a tri axel load a few weeks back. I went threw 2 chains to cut that myself. I didnt think that was horrible but im gonna be honest. I am not the best at sharpening chains with a hand file. So im sure that is why I am sharpening more times than I need to,

[Scott7m]

Yea I'm not trying to sound mean or anything but that's likely where a lot of your trouble is.  We have electric sharpeners on our tool bench and such but honestly the old hand file is hard to beat, and u can easily ruin a chain with an electric sharpener. 

Your likely taking to much off and not keeping them even n such, it's just hard to say but you should be able to cut a heckuva lot of wood if your not in dirt

[slimjim]

I don't know if any of you have tried the self sharpening chains, I don't run them but a buddy of mine has the same problems with sharpening and for guys like him that can't sharpen a garden hoe they work great and are not that expensive, saves a lot of time for him, I tried his saw one day and they do cut very well

[Speed]

I'll second what Scott said. Stihl chains are probably the best you are going to find for holding an edge, followed by Oregon. I usually can get 2-3 cords out a chain before I even think about sharpening, provided I don't find surprises in the wood. If you keep an eye on what the chain is throwing, its a good indicator of chain sharpness. Big chips are good, sawdust is not.

 Now don't take this the wrong way, but, how proficient are you at filing? If not done properly, they aren't going to cut good, or hold an edge very long. Are you keeping the rakers filed to correct depth? If you are only filing teeth, 4-5 filings and the rakers aren't going to let chain cut any more. Also, the dremel style sharpeners don't impress me. No good way to assure correct angles, and to long on the tooth, you'll overheat tooth and it won't have correct temper anymore. That will cause it to lose edge quickly, also. If there is no one around you that can teach you, go to Madsen's website. They have a very good tutorial on chain sharpening. I believe they (Madsens) have video on YouTube also. That should get you pointed in the right direction.

[CountryBoyJohn]

I have the same saw, the MS290, with a 20" bar as well.  When I got the saw, I ordered 2 extra "aggressive cut" chains.    I have cut 10 cords this year using 3 chains.  I sharpened each of them 1 time.  I could've gone even longer, but I got into a very sappy soft maple and it got hot and basically "glued" my cut ports down in 1 use.  I have them sharp now (2nd time), ready for next season.  I alternate taking the chains to a "pro" and doing them myself.  I know an old-timer who has been sharpening chains longer than I have been alive.  Does them for $3 each. 

[johnybcold]

Just a FYI ( or the local power shop feede a line of crap) the last few times I went to homedepot they did not have aggressive chains so I went to a local lawn mower/ chainsaw shop and he said the big boxes don't sell them anymore, and the chainsaws they sell have the wrong clutch for aggressive chains.

[CountryBoyJohn]

Jonny, I assume you are talking about a saw other than Stihl?  You can't buy Stihl or Stihl products at big box store.  You can only get them through authorized dealers.  There aren't clutch matching issues with Stihl chains and Stihl saws.  Again, disregard if you were talking about another brand.

[johnybcold]

Ya I have a smaller echo I would like to get another longer chainsaw, it would be nice to have a short and long. Once in a while I do get some thick logs and have to make 2cuts

[artbaldoni]

I use the http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-505698191-8-Inch-Chain-Filing/dp/B0035AKJN0 Husqvarna guide, haven't used my bench grinder for years. Also look at http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/index.html Pfred sharpening kit, does tooth and rakers at the same time.

[DaveWertz]

I guess my problem with hand filing is my lack of taking my time. I dont think I get my angles and or my depth guide matched correctly. Now the depth gauge is suppose to be just a hair shorter than the blade right?

[DaveWertz]

Artbald. How much are those files for the raker/sharpener from pfred? they dont give a price. Any experiance with them? I like the design of them they look simple to use. I have to see the size of my chains so I can get the correct one. Not sure what stihls sizes are off hand

[Speed]

I guess my problem with hand filing is my lack of taking my time. I dont think I get my angles and or my depth guide matched correctly. Now the depth gauge is suppose to be just a hair shorter than the blade right?

A few minutes with the file will save you a whole lot of time with a sharp saw singing through wood vs slower cutting dull chains. Take the time its worth it. Also, your saw will last longer as its not in a constant struggle. Yes the rakers should be shorter than the teeth, they make gauges for this, stihl has them for less than $3. And don't take them down too far, or the saw will get VERY grabby.

[artbaldoni]

Here is the old style one. http://www.amazon.com/Chain-sharp-Dual-Sharpening-Profile-Chain/dp/B001FA80GK

Here is the new style. http://www.amazon.com/Pferd-Chain-Sharp-Filing-Guide/dp/B0046VN5Z6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_lg_10