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[MattyNH]

Never shut off the boiler switch..If you do that your oil boiler wont function ie:pumps..  I would set the the settings at the oil boiler 160 high and 140 low..If your OWB boiler is set at 180 for example..Your oil beckett burner will never turn on..Cause you pumping in 180ishF water from the OWB..Your oil boiler will only turn on when your oil boiler reaches a low of 140F for example you lost your fire in the OWB...Make sure you keep your water specs up..Only saying that cause you are exposing all of your heating plumbing to the atmosphere, since you did a direct hook up.. 

[slimjim]

Any break on rise aquastat can be used to kill the burner circuit on the oil boiler, simply use the break on rise aquastat to monitor incoming wood boiler line use R+B terminals to interupt the B-1wire on the aquastat, reset the oil boiler aquastat to 185-160 where it should be and let the electronics work.

[Trint]

If its an older burner flipping the little switch shouldn't hurt it, mine is hooked up the same as yours and I have a switch between the burner and aquastat to shut the burner off.  Put the high temp back to 180 or lower (220 will make steam), and yes lowering the cut in will stop some of the cycling.  Slimjim's suggestion will work as well.

[slimjim]

The Idea of using the second aquastat is that when the wood boiler goes down ( you run out of wood) the oil boiler will return automatically to it's normal functions, some homes in very cold weather do not have enough radiation in them to heat the home properly at 160 degrees.

[kayakerski]

Slimjim,

Water boils at 212F at my house. I assume you asked that in response to my statement saying that the temp gage on my oil furnace only goes to 190F? I meant that the gage reads 190, meaning that it never reaches the 220f that tha aquastat is set to shut off at and not that 190F is the mechanical limit of the gage. Maybe the aquastat needs replacing?

[kayakerski]

Shoot, I'm still getting used to this forum and missed page 2 of all of your responses. I think you all have helped alot! I'll have to wait until later to thoroughly read through everything. The idea of setting L=140, H=160 sounds good to me but I want to look into what slim said about letting the electronics do the work.

Thanks again guys, I wish my CB dealer was as helpful.

Gregg

[kayakerski]

Ok so the way I see it is my first SAFE option is to set L=140 H=160 and see if I can effectively heat the house that way. If that doesn't work then I should try a break on rise aquastat.

I'm assuming that my house may not heat too well with the 160f water temp due to the fact that my house was built in 1860, is not insulated well and is 3300 sq ft. (Probably too much sq ft for my boiler but thats what they sold me). Also, my supply and return lines are 160' (110' of thermopex and 50' of white indoor pex with pipe insulation on it).

I will also make sure I keep a close eye on my water testing since I have an open system.

Gregg

[Scott7m]

Ok so the way I see it is my first SAFE option is to set L=140 H=160 and see if I can effectively heat the house that way. If that doesn't work then I should try a break on rise aquastat.

I'm assuming that my house may not heat too well with the 160f water temp due to the fact that my house was built in 1860, is not insulated well and is 3300 sq ft. (Probably too much sq ft for my boiler but thats what they sold me). Also, my supply and return lines are 160' (110' of thermopex and 50' of white indoor pex with pipe insulation on it).

I will also make sure I keep a close eye on my water testing since I have an open system.

Gregg

Hope your dealer didn't sell you a 007 Taco to boot!?

What pump do you run, seems most central installs I've seen had 007 no matter what the job was

[kayakerski]

I believe it's a 009 and I think I was told that it should be bigger than that. The dealer was not super helpful but theyre only 3 miles away.

[12valve]

I have a similar setup to yours Kayakerski ( just propane).  Here is what happened with mine.  When the boiler kicked on because one of your zones called for hear there is a slug of cold water that hits the boiler before it goes threw the plate exchager.  So that water is cold and it calls for heat so your oil lights up.  After a minute or so all of the water has run threw the plate X and when it gets to the boiler it is now heated so their is no more demand for heat.  Oil shuts off and you know the rest.  The reason this only happens when there is not alot of demand is because the time between the pumps kickin on give the water in the line( boiler side) time to cool off.  IDK if this is what is happening to you but it sounds similar to what happened to me.  I just turn my propane compleatley off (pilot and all) when the OWF is running.

[kayakerski]

12V,

That's sort of what I believe happens. It seems like there is a lag when there is a call for heat so the oil furnace runs for a few minutes.

Thats kind of what prompted this thread. I want to find a way to safely stop the oil furnace from kicking on under these conditions. It seems like I'm on the right path now and I also got alot of good info on other issues.

Gregg

[12valve]

K. is there any reason you cant just shut the valve off to the oil, pilot and all thats what I did.

[kayakerski]

I guess I can but I dont think its good for the older oil furnaces when you do that, from what I've heard. I don't know if the heat from the OWB water running through the oil furnace is enough to keep it safe or if the burner needs to fire. In any case, I would rather have the oil furnace ready to go when the water gets cool (fire burns out in OWB), just in case.

[12valve]

I re-read some of this post.  Why no plate X? 

[kayakerski]

I assume you mean a heat exchanger? My installer set it up this way.