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[willieG]

i doubt they test it in the water... but most of the pipe is not bad on initial install (not saying it doesnt happen)  but  perhaps those installing it pop a hole in it or  later on after install a year or two down the road a stone rubs a hole in it. many things can happen i guess. taht is why a lot of folks now are using a second tile and even clean sand below and above the pipe when they install it... remember this pipe plays a vital role in teh heating of your house, it should be counted almost as important (or more so) than the brand of stove you choose...and like your stove, your choice of pipe may well hae to do with your budget. what ever type of pipe a user buys they should do all they can to ensure its integrity not only when they install it but to do everything they can to ensure its life

[juddspaintballs]

I forget exactly what brand of foam I bought, but it's very similar to this stuff:
http://www.tigerfoam.com/


I wouldn't buy exactly what your dealer tells you to buy either.  My dad got his installed by his dealer and they used a triple wrap bubble foil insulation inside of a drainage tile on his (about the cheapest/worst option out there).  I'm moving this week and probably installing my boiler at the new house this spring.  I fully intend to use spray foam again since it's performed so well so far and it's not incredibly expensive, especially on longer runs. 

[Crow]

    I made a mess across the nicest part of my property to put in the pipe I purchased, but put a LOT of screened sand below and above to protect it. The trench was 18-20 inches wide so LOTS of sand and each side also. In most cases you get what you pay for, and to do this again because I cheaped out on pipe or pipe preparation would be a kick in the a$$.

[andyjs]

Are there any good 4 line pipes every one a seen the pipes were touching.wanting to heat hot tub also and not run another pipe from boiler.

[cantoo]

Judd, I have heard that frost movement or expansion and contraction can cause movement and crack the sprayfoam and allow water to get near the hot pipes, have you heard of this? Next year I will have a 100' run to install and I'm considering my options again. Logstor here is around $15 a foot plus taxes so it adds up quickly. We have lots to deal with here, heavy clay, stones, wet conditions, frost conditions and a dutch wife so I have to make the right decision.

[juddspaintballs]

I've never heard of that.  Spray foam does have some give to it if you've ever poked at it after it's cured.  Mine is buried 4' deep for the majority of the run, but where I entered the basement wall I had to come up to only about 1' deep to get through my 1875 stone basement wall.  If you can keep your entire run below the frost line, then you don't even have to wonder.  I wouldn't think twice about using it again even if I had the same issue at this new house, though.

[slimjim]

The underground pipe is not the place to cheap out, I have sold and installed thousands of feet of Logstor here in the northeast and never had even one failure of the product, I will not do a permanent install with anything else.

[JD Jim]

 
I just checked a website for logstor....while it might not be cheap, it just might be the best, and I am a firm believer in you get what ya pay for......I say do it once and never look back. May have used it in my own install had I know about it or where I could get my hands on it without spending $$ on shipping costs.

[powerstroke]

I was always scared since I insulated my own lines and pulled them through a 6 inch tile that I would have the issue of them losing alot of heat to the ground.  I know there are alot of good insulated pipe choices but I just couldnt swing the cost.  I have a 60 ft run to my shop and a 127 foot run to my house.  The pipe going to my house is 1inch for the exchanger and 3/4 inch for the hot water coil in the furnace.  I got a little bit of snow yesterday.  Just enough to cover the ground.  The pic below shows the 127 foot run which comes in right below the window I am looking out of.  Straight shot to the furnace which you can see in the distance.  Zero snow melt.  The lines are 30" down and pulled through 6" black corrugated pipe.  This is my 4th year and am very happy with them.  It has been over 24 hours since mother nature laid that dusting down.  My shop is at the right in the photo.

[ITO]

 I think some people can get away with much more than others, drainage and water tables have huge effects. Logstor is an awesome product, I would say if I were a dealer use it 100 per cent, will it always be better than anything else as a do it yourselfer?

[LittleJohn]

 

I agree with ITO, unless all conditions are know hard to say what you can get by with minimal heat loss. I would say at a minimum try to get below the frost line, but above the water table; that will give you the best chance at keeping your lines dry and warm.

When i installed my distribution lines I used the high dollar stuff, Uponor Ecoflex (sorry had to name drop cause family member works for Uponor) , and buried it 6' down to get below footing. 

[nightowl]

I installed a 5 wrap 1" lines 100 feet from boiler to house with temp gauge on feed and return at boiler and   also where it entered the building. My temp loss has been  1degree each way in the ground. pipes are down 14" to36" with sand 6"below 8" on each side and6"on top with top soil. Had a few inches of snow with below freezing temp then temp went above freezeing for a few days and the snow melted where the lines were first. So i dont think my lines are bad with a 1 degree loss each way. What i'am trying to say is to check your water temp at each end before replaceing you lines it would be a lot cheaper.

[automan77]

I have about a 1 dregree loss at 150 ft from stove to furnace with zsupply 3 wrap with a double outter pipe at 3ft deep

[andyjs]

Losing 6 degrees on each side plus water coming out of pipe at boiler

[Scott7m]

Logstor is probably the best overall.   The wrapped lines can be good id installed properly, double tiling them makes them hard to beat for the money

as far as 4 line, ahh, if u just wanna do a hot tub u sure dont need more lines for that

just use a close t design off of the main boiler loop