Watkincm, I'm not sure how far you have come in your troubleshooting of your G Series but hopefully Marty and Richard have been able to help you identify your problem. One thing came to mind when you said that the blower runs throughout the night and the unit smokes a lot.. The next time the boiler calls for heat and the blower kicks on, take the cover off of the damper and ensure that it is rotating all the way to the open position. It is possible that the damper is not rotating enough during a cycle which would not allow the furnace to fully gasify and would cause it to run longer each time to reach the 180 deg. set point especially while it's under a load. How much area are you heating with your unit?
I would definitely check your damper. Undo the cover on the front of the stove with the snap latch, set the cover off to the side, then grab the round disc (the damper) with a finger and your thumb and see if you can rotate it slightly in each direction, if you can’t move it not only may it not be opening all the way, but it also might not be closing all the way which can greatly add to your creosote problem.
The third morning I had my G400 running I woke up to see a little smoke coming out of the stack even though it wasn’t calling for heat, the damper wasn’t closed all the way but I could still move the plate. Turns out the shaft that runs thru the damper motor and turns the plate was inserted too far into the damper motor and was bottoming out in the recess the end of the shaft fits in on the stove itself. I loosened the lock bolt on the damper itself that takes a 10mm wrench and slid it out not even a 1/16” of an inch and that was the end of the problem. To be fair though, my 400 was also the demonstration stove at a dealer meeting and it was gone over numerous times thru the day and maybe something got moved or tweaked different than it came from the factory.
I’ve also found if you remove the two quarter inch bolts that take a 7/16” wrench that holds the damper motor on to clean your damper when reinstalling tighten the bolts finger tight then you can still move the damper motor around a fraction of a inch in either direction, move it round till it feels like that shaft is centered in the recess then retighten the two bolts, if slid all the way in one direction then retightened I think this could also cause the shaft to bind. Like I said, I think it could, it’s only happened once and never did it again.
Another thing I did with more was after the damper stuck open the damper itself (the round disc with two tapered slots cut in it) was creosoted up and its mating surface on the stove, I simply used my pocket knife to scrape it off, then lightly hit it with a scotchbrite pad then sprayed both surfaces with Fluid Film and in a moon it still moves as free as when I serviced it over a month ago. Fluid Film is hard to beat, is like WD40, PBlaster, Never Seize and cosmoline all in the same can.
Given your area as well until winter actually starts you may have to do like Garn users or European users of gasifiers do and learn to batch burn.
Not exactly what you’ll have, but an interesting read regardless.
http://www.lowcarboneconomy.com/profile/eco_angus_ltd/_case_studies_and_projects/case_study_of_a_wood_gasification_log_boiler_in_a_6_bedroom_house_in_wrington_north_somerset/14404
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Topic: New Heatmaster G200 Owner (Read 16428 times)