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[Bluegrass Wood Burner]

I have the timberline sharpener and am having trouble getting mains chains as sharp as they were when I first got it. One side seems to be tighter when I try and do both teeth as I go. Any tips would sure help. I bought a new chain and it cut very very good. I hit a nail on a pallet and re sharpened and can't get that razor sharp feel. It seems it's jumping a little when I cut. Cuts straight but too much saw dust not enough shavings.

[ralphxj]

The best way to get it razor sharp is to go around a few times and only take off a very small amount. If you hit a nail you probably have some teeth VERY dull or ever damaged so it might take a few 0asses to get it sharp. Don't try to take too much off with each pass or you will break the carbide. Also make sure it's set and adjusted so the cutter is sitting correctly in the teeth or your spend a lot of time removing metal that isn't making the chain any sharper.

[Bluegrass Wood Burner]

Shouldn't the carbide bit bite about the same on left and right teeth? One it seems it over biting when the other is fine. I feel the over biting is what's hurting me. I'm gonna slow Dow and take very little off and go couple three times around all teeth. Slow and steady seems to be the key.

[Bluegrass Wood Burner]

By the way , thanks Ralphxj for the help

[ralphxj]

Shouldn't the carbide bit bite about the same on left and right teeth? One it seems it over biting when the other is fine. I feel the over biting is what's hurting me. I'm gonna slow Dow and take very little off and go couple three times around all teeth. Slow and steady seems to be the key.

The bit "should" bite the same amount, however I have found then when my chains get really dull, from normal use or hitting something (nail, dirt, etc) they quickly start to wear one side quicker then the other which causes the issues you are having. Under normal use, the 2 sides seem to cut the same, but when really dull it always seems like one side is way diffrent from the other.

[coolidge]

As mentioned go around a few times, couldn't get by without mine.

[Bluegrass Wood Burner]

I ruined a cutter when I first got the sharpener by over biting, so now when I feel that extra friction I back off and adjust. Those carbide cutters are not cheap. I went ahead and bought couple extra. I just need to slow down and take off smaller amount of shavings at a time. Just thought there might have been tricks that I didn't know about for lining them up.

[heat550]

I have the timberline sharpener and am having trouble getting mains chains as sharp as they were when I first got it. One side seems to be tighter when I try and do both teeth as I go. Any tips would sure help. I bought a new chain and it cut very very good. I hit a nail on a pallet and re sharpened and can't get that razor sharp feel. It seems it's jumping a little when I cut. Cuts straight but too much saw dust not enough shavings.

Cut the rakers down . and dress your grinding wheel .  I make some awesome sharp chains with my timberline . devils in the details
I only go around once and dress the wheel for every chain .. If you get chains you hit a nail pretend its a skip tooth for few sharpening s there's no need to cut all rest down for 3 nail damaged teeth . you can tell I don't sell chains LOL I cut about 15-25 cord per chain .. only thing that screws me up is when i find barbwire in the logs ... 

Heat550

my chains don't jump at all pressure has to be same on every tooth when your sharpening . I set up a indicator to see the flex .
but that's super over kill . I remove the burr on each tooth with brass .. thats more over kill ..
I have youtube of a just sharpened chain . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oP1VG7PVcEU

[BIG AL]

I usually go around a couple times as well with mine , small cuts , and I go slow. I usually check out the chain first and look for any bad teeth first and start there if there are any. I also mark where I start on the top of the tooth with a sharpie marker so I know when I get back there. I often do one side first then I reset for the other if needed. Then I use a flat file across the top of the teeth to see if I need to take the rakes down. I will even take a hand file in the woods and dress the chain as needed. But then again I run 2 or 3 saws on the same day so I do a lot of sharpening some nights.

[heat550]

What happens to my chains is the metal  under rivet on the back of the tooth gets to thin . I even have couple that stress crack there also ..
I used husqavarna Bar oils and it helped but is just a wear factor ..  I normally have tooth left but rivet gets to close to bar and tooth dont ride flat anymore.. I think Im expecting to much at 25 cord per chain ..    

Heat550

I inspect chains pretty good cracks are a issue and they get tossed . I always have oilers on saw wide open 353 has a adjuster on bottom that helps alot to get Bars to last longer ... 2006 353 and Im on my second bar .325 chain .. The1981  77 I use in video has 3/8 chain I have less issues with chain but the does same thing to back tooth but lasts longer more metal ..