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[RSI]

Ok, looking for opinions. Even if you have no interest in doing this.

Would you rather:
A: try mounting the parts inside the dryer and possibly have to remove permanently the back panel
or
B: have a separate box that would just need an air hose going to the dryer? The box would probably be 12x12x18". Probably smaller with custom made heat exchangers.

I would guess the separate box could be up to about 6 feet away (maybe more) but close is better.

The box would require a lot less modifications to the dryer also and may allow for switching back to gas / electric heat in a few minutes (or few seconds if you don't mind making it suck the air through the box all the time but there is a chance of the extra restriction causing overheating).

[Ridgekid]

Funny- During Easter dinner we disccused your dryer idea. Wife was all for it. We discussed adding a "winter" dryer. One that would use the OWB during the winter months. Of course we would have to find a second dryer.

If we ended up buying a new one, would a Gas or electric dryer be better for your installation? (Which one would be easier to modify?)

[RSI]

The wiring is a lot simpler on a gas dryer because they run on 120v.
Electric will work but since it is 220 you would need to re-wire it for 120v.

If you have a very good number of people using craigslist in your area there is a good chance a free dryer will get posted with the heat not working. I think I ended up paying $50 for the one I used.
If you get a used one, make sure the drum seal is good. Otherwise it won't work. If the heater is still working but it won't dry very good then the seal is most likely bad.

[Ridgekid]

My wife reminded me my son had a Dryer that was not in use. But's it's electric. If I move forward on this I'll look for a gas unit for the simplicity of the install. (just have to add receptacle).

If I move forward on this, which is being encouraged by the wife, it won't be until the start of the next season. I have too many projects in the works now. Should of had the boat de-winterized and ready for a trip by now.

[RSI]

It might be worth taking a look at the dryer.
Most electric dryers only use the 220 for the heater and run the motor off on 120 off one leg. It may be fairly simple to just put a 120v cord on it.

[Ridgekid]

Yeah, but is it easier to add the HX to a Electric or Gas dryer?

[RSI]

That probably depends on the brand.

[tawilson1152]

Hey, I like the pink warning that I am dragging up an old thread.
Now that I've got my boiler running I'm thinking about this too. I'm recall reading somewhere that you can use one leg of the 220v going to the electric coil in the dryer to run a circ pump, then it's controlled by the tsat in the dryer.

[RSI]

Are you going to keep the heating element connected? If not I would rewire the dryer for 120v. Most have 120v motors and controls and just run them on one leg of the 220 and use the other just for the element.

If you need help finding any parts, let me know. I now have a source for 8x8 heat exchangers and would like to find out how good they would work out for this.

My dryer has a 12x12 single row and works good enough but I think a smaller 3 row would work better.

[6Monty6]

Here is my air to air clothes dryer heat exchanger--HE 26.  It is made from an oil drum.  It cost me under $50 and is lint and moisture free.

Clothes Dryer Heat Exchanger HE 26 Part I

[Scott7m]

RSI, buddy have you messed with these ideas anymore?

[RSI]

No, there didn't seem to be that much interest.
Mine is still running good though. Probably 6 or 7 years since I put it together. I didn't put a filter on the heat exchanger so it could probably use a cleaning. It sometimes needs to be run twice to dry a big load of jeans.

[Scott7m]

No, there didn't seem to be that much interest.
Mine is still running good though. Probably 6 or 7 years since I put it together. I didn't put a filter on the heat exchanger so it could probably use a cleaning. It sometimes needs to be run twice to dry a big load of jeans.

That still sounds great....  I'm gonna do it. 

How do you feel about this idea, get a used dryer, install like a 12x12 on it and install a zone valve that would open to allow water into the coil when the dryer came on?  You may have far better ideas since you've done this before

[RSI]

I would use a pump instead of a zone valve. Just use 2 close spaced tees. Just hook the pump power to the heater wires in the dryer. I am not sure how much current they can put out so you might want to use a relay. If it is an electric dryer it would be able to handle it but probably best to just use a relay with a 240v coil.
This way the dryer controls the heat and can do a cool down cycle if you want to use it.

I think a 6x6 or 8x8 coil would be big enough and be easier to deal with. I have a 12x12 on mine but it is only 1-1/2" thick. I think being thicker would be much better.

Another nice thing about it is it makes using the clothes line not worth the bother since it costs almost nothing to use the dryer.

[Scott7m]

I would use a pump instead of a zone valve. Just use 2 close spaced tees. Just hook the pump power to the heater wires in the dryer. I am not sure how much current they can put out so you might want to use a relay. If it is an electric dryer it would be able to handle it but probably best to just use a relay with a 240v coil.
This way the dryer controls the heat and can do a cool down cycle if you want to use it.

I think a 6x6 or 8x8 coil would be big enough and be easier to deal with. I have a 12x12 on mine but it is only 1-1/2" thick. I think being thicker would be much better.

Another nice thing about it is it makes using the clothes line not worth the bother since it costs almost nothing to use the dryer.

Ok....  My wheels are turning...  I see what your saying about the pump... 

Just gotta figure out where to mount the coil and duct, I don't have any 6x8's or 8x8's tho