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Author Topic: Hardy H5  (Read 251 times)

Grtrnd1

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  • OWF Brand: Hardy
  • OWF Model: H5
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Hardy H5
« on: September 16, 2020, 02:54:37 PM »

Good afternoon. I am installing my used 2011 Hardy H5. Lines buried, concrete pad is poured. While waiting on concrete to setup, I looked at a few other things. The wood burner used to have a auto fill feature. The original owner said it quit and he took it off. I asked him if the low water light still worked and he said no, that the float switch in the top of the tank needed replaced and he didn't fool with it because he only added about 5 gallon of water a season. I couldn't add the auto fill because my tap water is over 15ppm chloride. But just found out my old well water (which we don't use) is only 7.5ppm. so next year I may run an additional line for the auto fill but not this year. My question is, if I order a new plastic float switch and replace it, the low water light should work, right? It's all hooked up but I haven't hooked power up to it. I just want to know if it needs water by looking at the light. Thanks for any help.
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E Yoder

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Re: Hardy H5
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2020, 03:10:45 AM »

Hopefully someone on here knows, I've worked on some Hardy furnaces, but not on the float switches. 
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HeatMaster dealer serving southwest VA.
www.heatmasterfurnace.com

RSI

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Re: Hardy H5
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2020, 09:44:05 PM »

I think the float switch is the same as what heatmaster (and others) uses. I think they have a separate one for the light than for the water valve but it has been a while since I messed with one.
I have worked on a couple Hardy's and the wiring on them was all cobbled up. Half of the stuff disconnected, wires wirenutted together, limit switches bypassed etc.

I fixed the water fill on the last one I worked on. The customer had a new valve they wanted me to install. I changed it out and it still wouldn't fill. The tube into the boiler after the electric valve was plugged up. I think I was able to clear it with a wire.
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