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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: November 11, 2013, 06:09:12 PM »
arent you concerned about it being rubber?i allways assumed you needed a metal flashing boot.
Nope. If he uses double-wall pipe, a standard rubber boot will be fine. If ordering off the net I'd go ahead and order a high-temp version, but if I went to town to buy one and all they had was a regular rubber boot, I wouldn't be afraid to use it.
If he uses single-wall pipe, then yeah he'll need a metal flashing.
2
Electronics / Re: thermostat wiring
« on: October 26, 2013, 08:17:51 PM »
What is the benefit of running two T-stats? I've been reading about doing it that way since I started thinking about buying one of these stoves, and I've never really figured out why it's done that way.... I might even have asked about it here before.
I have a White-Rodgers 1F83-261 T-stat for my system ($62 on Amazon) - it's a 2 stage non-programmable with an adjustable differential (and a battery backup). When the wood stove is burning, only the furnace fan kicks on and I have heat. That's Stage 1. IF something happens (fire goes out, pump quits, water leak, whatever) and the temp. on the T-stat is 2* (or wherever you want to set that differential) below where it's set, then the gas portion of the furnace will fire, and I still have heat, which is Stage 2. No switching wires, or turning T-stats on and off, and no unhappy Momma because the house is cold.
I guess I'm having a hard time understanding why everyone doesn't just install a 2- stage T-stat?? (I understand some situations are different, and sometimes I'm sure a two T-stat setup is a must. But for the run-of-the-mill, everyday system, I'd think the 2 stage would be much simpler)
I have a White-Rodgers 1F83-261 T-stat for my system ($62 on Amazon) - it's a 2 stage non-programmable with an adjustable differential (and a battery backup). When the wood stove is burning, only the furnace fan kicks on and I have heat. That's Stage 1. IF something happens (fire goes out, pump quits, water leak, whatever) and the temp. on the T-stat is 2* (or wherever you want to set that differential) below where it's set, then the gas portion of the furnace will fire, and I still have heat, which is Stage 2. No switching wires, or turning T-stats on and off, and no unhappy Momma because the house is cold.
I guess I'm having a hard time understanding why everyone doesn't just install a 2- stage T-stat?? (I understand some situations are different, and sometimes I'm sure a two T-stat setup is a must. But for the run-of-the-mill, everyday system, I'd think the 2 stage would be much simpler)
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Probably another dumb question???
« on: October 24, 2013, 05:13:04 PM »
My chimney is 12' tall, and I use a cap (I'm not crawling up there twice a year with a bucket). Wide open, with no screen. So far, no dripping on the cap, pipe, or stove, and it stays pretty clean, so I have no issues with it.
I've got $10K invested in this stove - keeping rain out of that pipe is worth the "hassle" of a cap, to me.
I've got $10K invested in this stove - keeping rain out of that pipe is worth the "hassle" of a cap, to me.
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: October 22, 2013, 04:50:15 PM »
OP: Did you get this project done?
Go here for the roof boot - will be cheaper here than buying one in town (although your local lumber yard / plumbing supply house will have something similar):
http://www.pipebootexpress.com/square-base-flashing-109.html
You need item # MBAMB0060
I found Selkirk double-walled stainless pipe at my local farm store cheaper than anywhere online, so I'd check there first if you have one close (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Buchheit's, etc.). If I were you, I'd run it from the stove connection all the way out - no creosote or overheating issues.
I see no problems with an install like you describe, if you use the right stuff to do it. Get it done and get us some pics!!
Go here for the roof boot - will be cheaper here than buying one in town (although your local lumber yard / plumbing supply house will have something similar):
http://www.pipebootexpress.com/square-base-flashing-109.html
You need item # MBAMB0060
I found Selkirk double-walled stainless pipe at my local farm store cheaper than anywhere online, so I'd check there first if you have one close (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Buchheit's, etc.). If I were you, I'd run it from the stove connection all the way out - no creosote or overheating issues.
I see no problems with an install like you describe, if you use the right stuff to do it. Get it done and get us some pics!!
5
Plumbing / Re: underground pex
« on: September 17, 2013, 08:49:00 PM »
Scott, any hardware store or lumberyard should have hydraulic cement. It doesn't have to be the Quikrete brand (although I will agree that it works about the best) - most all of it that I've used will seal up fine.
I foamed my lines, let them dry, then dug out ~3" on the inside and outside of the foundation wall and used hyd. cement for the finish. Working good so far, and no leaks.
I foamed my lines, let them dry, then dug out ~3" on the inside and outside of the foundation wall and used hyd. cement for the finish. Working good so far, and no leaks.
7
Plumbing / Re: Pump Location?
« on: March 29, 2013, 10:37:35 PM »Check the temps Scott, it make a difference unless you have very little water pressure. The job I checked it on it was making about an 8 degree difference when we had it hooked up correctly.
So what is the "correct" way? Since I still can't remember / find where I read that description...
Is it correct to plumb it like my pic, or like I wrote it down? I'm not going to change mine unless something breaks, but it may help out someone doing a new install.
8
Plumbing / Re: Pump Location?
« on: March 28, 2013, 07:19:25 PM »
I can't see where it would make any difference whatsoever. I just know I read that somewhere, and it seems like it was from someone / some place that "should" know. It's aggravating the hell out of me that I can't find it / remember where it was I read that!!! 
9
Plumbing / Re: Pump Location?
« on: March 28, 2013, 06:00:06 PM »By the way, I did look at the Central Boiler site and they did have a lot of drawings but the only water heater setups I found looked they were for sidearms.
Couldn't find a diagram for a plate-type exchanger. Maybe I missed it?
Did you figure it out? If not, does this help??
That's a very crappy MSPaint-rendered picture of how mine is set up. It works great and I have no complaints.
I can't remember exactly where I read it, but I've read that my lines are "technically" backwards. According to what I read, looking at the plate from the front, Domestic IN should be top Left, Domestic OUT bottom left, Boiler IN bottom Right, Boiler OUT top Right. But that could be wrong, too - like I said, I don't even remember where it was I read that. :-) In any case, mine's working great just as it's plumbed - more hot water than all 4 of us can use.
10
Plumbing / Re: Pump Location?
« on: March 24, 2013, 08:04:08 PM »
I put mine in the basement, and it's the very lowest point of my system. Even if I'm in the basement, everything else in the house is off and no one else is home, I cannot hear it run.
The biggest benefit to me, is it's easy if it's inside. It was easy to run my wires, easy to run the plumbing, and the pump is always easy to get to. I'll never get cold changing / servicing it either. I also added a boiler drain valve in my domestic cold water line, and another in my OWB pex line, that are close enough together I can hook a hose between them - easy filling of the entire system, right from the basement. I can drain the whole system from there too, right to the floor drain.
I'm not saying it's best to have it in the basement, but for me personally, I wouldn't have it any other way.
The biggest benefit to me, is it's easy if it's inside. It was easy to run my wires, easy to run the plumbing, and the pump is always easy to get to. I'll never get cold changing / servicing it either. I also added a boiler drain valve in my domestic cold water line, and another in my OWB pex line, that are close enough together I can hook a hose between them - easy filling of the entire system, right from the basement. I can drain the whole system from there too, right to the floor drain.
I'm not saying it's best to have it in the basement, but for me personally, I wouldn't have it any other way.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Empyre questions
« on: March 22, 2013, 05:40:59 PM »
I don't know how to tell you to fix it, but I'm glad you posted the question. Gives me something else to check should I ever have trouble with mine!
12
Plumbing / Re: what else did u put in your "boiler line trench"
« on: March 22, 2013, 05:36:39 PM »
I ran my 5-wrap and the tile, and TWO 1" conduits - one for the 12/2 (w/gnd) that I ran to the boiler, and one empty. I can pull another wire through the first conduit, and can get 3 in the empty one should the need arise. Only thing I'll probably ever get around to, when I get my woodshed built, is just pull one more wire for some lights / outlets in the shed.
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Hammering noise when firing
« on: March 06, 2013, 10:43:07 PM »
It's not loud at all, and I'm not the least bit worried about it. Just thought I'd throw it out there for him, let him know his isn't the only one that makes a little noise. 
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Spark Suppression or Spark Arrestor
« on: March 06, 2013, 07:47:09 PM »
Which designs would require something like this? I understand the Hardy's will throw flame/sparks out the stack - are there other stoves/designs that do so as well?
The idea in the OP is a good one. Especially if you have a tall(er) stack, this would make replacing the spark arrestor mesh much easier. And hardware cloth is cheap.
The idea in the OP is a good one. Especially if you have a tall(er) stack, this would make replacing the spark arrestor mesh much easier. And hardware cloth is cheap.
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Hammering noise when firing
« on: March 06, 2013, 07:43:14 PM »
Hmmmmmmm.........
My Empyre is only two weeks old, and working perfectly. Since the initial fill, I haven't added an ounce of water and it has stayed at the exact same level. EVERY time I load it, I can hear the stove... thumping? I wouldn't call it "hammering", it's not that loud, but it is definately an audible thumping noise from all over the water jacket. No change in the sound if you listen from the front of the stove, or the back.
I just figured it was the nature of the stainless box, and it would always make noise??
My Empyre is only two weeks old, and working perfectly. Since the initial fill, I haven't added an ounce of water and it has stayed at the exact same level. EVERY time I load it, I can hear the stove... thumping? I wouldn't call it "hammering", it's not that loud, but it is definately an audible thumping noise from all over the water jacket. No change in the sound if you listen from the front of the stove, or the back.
I just figured it was the nature of the stainless box, and it would always make noise??