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Topics - Boydz

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1
HeatMaster / Additional Ash Box Maintenence
« on: January 29, 2014, 09:15:12 AM »
Hey Guys,

Just thought Id share with you what I found when removing my airbox on my Heatmaster 10KE over the weekend right before the cold snap. I was preparing for the cold and doing some maintenance and took a moment to look to the way back of my ash pan and realized I couldn't really get back there to clean it all, so I decided to remove the fan, airbox, damper setup from the rear and have a better look. This honestly took about 5min to remove with only 5 self tapping screws to remove. My unit was working fine and keeping up, but I still felt that the fan wasn't as strong as day one.
The pics show how much ash has built up in the rear 6" pipe that I couldnt really get to from the front side. Keep in mind that I've had it 2yrs now and have pushed about 20+ cords of wood thru it since I bought it and this is the first time its been opened. I used a shop vac and sucked it all out after poking it with various tools to loosen it all up since some of it was pretty hardened up. The fan works like day one now and doesn't seem like its running as hard as it was. Unit cycles faster etc.

You can also see the retrofit top air kit I installed last year from the dealer hanging down in the middle which redirects a small portion of air to the top side of the fire. This has made some difference in the amount of smoke being produced. You can really see some secondary burn occurring with it installed. It was a bit of a pain to install it, and the unit had to be completely shut down enough to get inside and cut a square opening in the bottom plate to slide it in. Couple hours job

Anyhow, Just thought this may help with Maintenance and things to check on from time to time.
Be sure to re-tape the 6" connection when you reinstall it to prevent air leaks to the fire box when the damper is closed. Mine was wrapped with foil tape from the factory.

Its hard to see but the bottom pic shows it cleaned out. The plate you see is actually at a 45deg angle back towards the fire box, so cleaning it from the from is near impossible. I go about 2weeks before emptying my ash drawer depending on how much wood Im shoving thru the unit.

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2
Up $.90 today alone again to $4.69gal.

Better be glad your burning wood.
With this Fuel shortage and all, I may just pay this unit off this year in the savings.
To fill my tanks it would be close to 2K, and sometimes in the pat I did that Monthly this time of year.

http://www.npr.org/2014/01/22/264742837/punishing-winter-temperatures-drain-propane-supplies

3
-18 here with -50 windchill. My Heatmaster 10KE is laughing and Im toasty !!

Yup - 12hr burns with 3/4 Fills of Maple and Ash, but shes keeping up with all 3 buildings. I was a little concerned at first but this is the coldest I've encountered for this old farm house with no insulation.
I'm set at 185 supply with a 10deg swing. Doing nice at cleaning up all the creosote from the fall !! :D

Yeah, its burning some wood, but its toasty in the house at 72. Pretty impressive for a 88Deg delta to outside and even more with the windchill.

Screw the LP company !! haha

Hope everyone else is doing just as good !!

4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Splitting some wood today - New toy
« on: October 08, 2013, 01:26:01 AM »
Got a new splitter for the Bobcat after much debate and have to say I am very impressed. TM makes a great product and My Back is one happy camper. I originally wanted a sideways design but after trying it Im glad I didnt go that route. I really like this forward design with the angled boom and viewing window because I can reach into a pile, stack a pile while splitting, trim trees if I want by reaching up, and sweep the splits off to the side with the boom. i couldnt do any of that wit the sideways design, plus the splits were always in my way of driving forward and I had no boom to push them aside.
I got the TM 30" Pro with the viewing window and could split toothpicks if I wanted to since you can see the wedge very well. Even with standard flow hydraulics, I was able to split a huge pile in a very short amount of time with little effort on my part. Some of the logs I had were 4ft in diameter from a tree company and this made it so easy to break them apart and move them around.
I'm really impressed overall, Much more than I thought I would be. It didn't even hesitate on some of the knarliest crotches Ive encountered on Oak and Ash. The ash was very stringy and it plowed thru it and with the large wedge design, it split and tore them apart completely, where last year the ash was very difficult being stringy it would split but not separate (Frustrating).
Anyhow, Love good tools !!! A+ to these guys. Really saved my back and time.
 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Where to buy Temp Gauges
« on: February 13, 2013, 11:18:05 AM »
Can someone please point me to where I can get the fittings, gauges, and wells for setting up supply and return termperature gauges on 1" Pex ?

I really want to see and monitor what i have going on and my IR gun doesnt seems to be reliable as its constantly changing as I move it around.

Maybe something like a 1"x1"x3/4" Tee and then add the temp well and guage ? I have some Pasco stuff now on my raidant heat setup I really like but that came as a kit. i know i came accross a post with some of this info but I cant find it.
Some inital searching seems very expensive and i know its gotta be cheaper if the tee was all one unit.
Thanks :)

Ryan

6
HeatMaster / Rear Draft Setting
« on: December 10, 2012, 11:34:46 AM »
I have recently installed a 10,000E and am woindering where you guys are leaving the rear draft setting at ? I currently have it set at 100% but am woindering if it needs to be this much. Seems like ALOT of air is coming in quick. Ive got the unit set at 180 with a 10-15deg swing depending on how warm it is outside and what im burning for wood. Seems this late in the year im only able to scrounge up green wood.
Im heating an old farm house with very little insulation, a full shop in another building that pretty well insulated, and soon a tack room for the horse equipment so I want to make sure its being as efficient as possible.

Just thought I'd ask if anyones played with this :)

Thanks
-Ryan

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