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16
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cast Iron Radiators
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:45:08 PM »
I stand to be corrected but my understanding is you require more feet of baseboard to give the equivalent BTU of a rad. Only makes sense when you measure the square footage of a rad.
I wish I could post some pics, I love looking at these floral pattern rads. Can't walk past one without touching it, must be something wrong with me.
My wife and kids were smart enough to put a towel on the bathroom rad before they shower........they told me, and now I have started to do it too.
Just love them.
Bob
I wish I could post some pics, I love looking at these floral pattern rads. Can't walk past one without touching it, must be something wrong with me.
My wife and kids were smart enough to put a towel on the bathroom rad before they shower........they told me, and now I have started to do it too.
Just love them.
Bob
17
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Burning green wood stinks...
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:29:07 PM »
Maybe splitting some smaller would help to build a bed for the larger pieces to burn better until you can get some drier stuff to mix along with the oak.
Bob
Bob
18
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Gas fired Power Plant might be buying me out!?
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:23:01 PM »
Yes Dave a tough spot.
See what the offer is, but the most important issue for me would be to decide where you and your family will be in 5 years, and I don't mean physically, I mean emotionally. This type of thing can sour the milk in your teats. I have a friend that owned a peeler bar and he fought the local officials for years over the smoking area for his patrons, it consumed him night and day, it became too personal. That was all he could talk about, he lost friends over it. It was years he won't get back, all wasted.
Good luck,
Bob
See what the offer is, but the most important issue for me would be to decide where you and your family will be in 5 years, and I don't mean physically, I mean emotionally. This type of thing can sour the milk in your teats. I have a friend that owned a peeler bar and he fought the local officials for years over the smoking area for his patrons, it consumed him night and day, it became too personal. That was all he could talk about, he lost friends over it. It was years he won't get back, all wasted.
Good luck,
Bob
19
Portage & Main / Re: Hard To Load Boiler For Smoke
« on: November 21, 2014, 06:29:22 PM »
Yes just try and work with that idea for a few days and tell us if it helps you.
At first the loading door gasket was too sturdy to stay close to being closed without latching it but now I can push it closed and almost no smoke leaks out. Then when I come back with the next armload, or a big block I can pull it open and load quickly. I think if all of that exhaust channel is hot and rising then that updraft must continue to draw some smoke up to take its place when the door is first opened, gives you a chance to load quickly then close again.
Hope this helps you out,
Bob
At first the loading door gasket was too sturdy to stay close to being closed without latching it but now I can push it closed and almost no smoke leaks out. Then when I come back with the next armload, or a big block I can pull it open and load quickly. I think if all of that exhaust channel is hot and rising then that updraft must continue to draw some smoke up to take its place when the door is first opened, gives you a chance to load quickly then close again.
Hope this helps you out,
Bob
20
Portage & Main / Re: Steam??
« on: November 21, 2014, 06:15:19 PM »
Yes I have seen the same wisps of steam with mine on cold days.
Bob
Bob
21
Portage & Main / Re: Hard To Load Boiler For Smoke
« on: November 21, 2014, 05:53:12 PM »
Avoid any risk of blow-back. I like my beard.
If I have to add some wood when the fan is off I always open the ash door first and watch to see the smoke start comming out the chimney, then I only open the door to the first latch position and wait, only then do I open it.
I do the same thing if the fan goes off while I am still loading, as I keep the door nearly closed when picking up some more wood to continue loading. I could be wrong but I feel that if I leave the door wide open then the smoke establishes the door as it's escape channel instead of the chimney. With the door closed the smoke follows the chimney pathway ( it stays full of hot rising air which helps draw up smoke when I re-open the door ) and so when I open the door again I get much less smoke while I toss in more wood. Also the area around the door stays clean. Maybe a poor explanation but it works for me. Of course if you have all the wood you need at the door, that's different.
Make sure you close the ash door though.
Another reason for the mask is when you cleaning the sides, creosote stuff is bad for your lungs I have been told by chimney sweeps.
Bob
If I have to add some wood when the fan is off I always open the ash door first and watch to see the smoke start comming out the chimney, then I only open the door to the first latch position and wait, only then do I open it.
I do the same thing if the fan goes off while I am still loading, as I keep the door nearly closed when picking up some more wood to continue loading. I could be wrong but I feel that if I leave the door wide open then the smoke establishes the door as it's escape channel instead of the chimney. With the door closed the smoke follows the chimney pathway ( it stays full of hot rising air which helps draw up smoke when I re-open the door ) and so when I open the door again I get much less smoke while I toss in more wood. Also the area around the door stays clean. Maybe a poor explanation but it works for me. Of course if you have all the wood you need at the door, that's different.
Make sure you close the ash door though.
Another reason for the mask is when you cleaning the sides, creosote stuff is bad for your lungs I have been told by chimney sweeps.
Bob
22
Portage & Main / Re: Proper Placement of wood int the fire box
« on: November 21, 2014, 05:29:09 PM »
I was talking with P+M this week regarding having the wood touch the side metal when loading and I was told not to worry about it, by a man that has the same model as I.
Bob
Bob
23
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Removing Logstor foam from the pex lines
« on: November 21, 2014, 10:52:01 AM »
I broke a jig saw blade in half and then cut down the black covering using the white lettering line as a guide, cut the bottom with a knife.
Then used a drywall saw ( keyhole saw ) and cut down between the two pex pipes, holding on to one.
Then grab one foam covered pex and twist hard, it will loosen from the pex and it will slide off easily, usually in 10 to 16 inch pieces.
Bob
Then used a drywall saw ( keyhole saw ) and cut down between the two pex pipes, holding on to one.
Then grab one foam covered pex and twist hard, it will loosen from the pex and it will slide off easily, usually in 10 to 16 inch pieces.
Bob
24
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Chimney length effect on natural draft
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:55:18 PM »
If it were an air tight stove then in theory you regulate the air that can be sucked up the chimney. It will ideally suck up whatever you choose to give it.
I see no point in adding length beyond what is needed ( although my wife may disagree )
Bob
I see no point in adding length beyond what is needed ( although my wife may disagree )
Bob
25
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wood Splitter
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:25:41 PM »
Oh baby, and I thought my 4 was was great. It's just cutting those blocks that would be harder to do.
Bob
Bob
26
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Chimney length effect on natural draft
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:20:33 PM »
I agree, that has been my experience using wood stoves for 35 years provided of course the diameter matches the stove.
Meaning you wood not put a 6 inch pipe from a stove into a 12 x 12 flue, you may think it better but it is not.
Bob
Meaning you wood not put a 6 inch pipe from a stove into a 12 x 12 flue, you may think it better but it is not.
Bob
27
General Discussion / Re: Had a visitor on Veterans Day.
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:14:01 PM »
Thank's for the pic Marty, very beautiful,
Bob
Bob
28
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Your wood usage?
« on: November 19, 2014, 04:35:37 PM »
Could you be referring to a face cord ( 1/3 of a bush cord ?)
ie 4 ft high x 8 feet long x 16" deep, a face cord.
Bob
ie 4 ft high x 8 feet long x 16" deep, a face cord.
Bob
29
Portage & Main / Re: Size DOES Matter
« on: November 16, 2014, 07:50:48 PM »
I am going with the same growing pains as any first time user. Always took a bit of time to get the feel of a new wood stove, and I have had many over the years, so this is just the same.
I also keep the wood away from the steel, but stack it higher in the middle. To my mind there should be no ashes against the steel so hopefully no corrosion should they get wet from condensation. Could be mistaken.
Today I grabbed some beech that had broken about 15 feet up, cut some of the 8 to 10 inch limbs into 36 or so inches. Tossed about 8 of these onto some regular dry split wood, about 10 pieces and had a good roaring fire going just now.
Bob
I also keep the wood away from the steel, but stack it higher in the middle. To my mind there should be no ashes against the steel so hopefully no corrosion should they get wet from condensation. Could be mistaken.
Today I grabbed some beech that had broken about 15 feet up, cut some of the 8 to 10 inch limbs into 36 or so inches. Tossed about 8 of these onto some regular dry split wood, about 10 pieces and had a good roaring fire going just now.
Bob
30
Plumbing / Re: sidearm troubles
« on: November 14, 2014, 09:12:36 PM »
I am no expert but the tee out of the top seems high, for a syphon to work effectively. I put a very low power 1/40 th hp bronze circ on that tee portion to constantly move the water through the sidearm ( flow top to bottom. )
Bob
Bob