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1
Portage & Main / Re: Is the Ultimizer really more efficient then Optimizer???
« on: March 05, 2015, 09:44:51 PM »
From my research prior to purchase I believe the 250 is more efficient. However I chose the Ultimizer because the stove is very forgiving. You do not have to worry about the wood you burn. It will take anything and convert it to ashes. I am currently burning fresh cut oak and 70 year old plantation Black Locust, all cut within the past month. I split some of the bigger oak blocks in half. I needed to conserve my smaller split and dry firewood for syrup making. Love this stove.
Bob
Bob
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: bl 28-40
« on: February 18, 2015, 10:18:45 PM »
Good one ijon.
Bob
Bob
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: clearing the air
« on: February 18, 2015, 10:16:45 PM »
Gotta love that!
They've gone from claiming Global Warming to Climate Change now. Didn't Al Gore claim the Arctic would be " ice free " in 2014? US and British subs surfaced at the pole years ago.
We do not need to walk around with dust mask on our faces here in North America.
Bob
They've gone from claiming Global Warming to Climate Change now. Didn't Al Gore claim the Arctic would be " ice free " in 2014? US and British subs surfaced at the pole years ago.
We do not need to walk around with dust mask on our faces here in North America.
Bob
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Ever miss a inside fire?
« on: February 18, 2015, 10:04:43 PM »
Heated my house for 20 years with wood stoves and when you are sitting beside them they are comforting indeed. However having the mess and fire risk 150 feet away from house and family is more comforting. Still have the stoves/fireplace and like to burn some white birch at Christmas and Thanksgiving for the wonderful smell.
Bob
Bob
5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: If you had to do it over again!
« on: February 18, 2015, 09:58:27 PM »
I only wish I had gone the outdoor boiler route years ago.
Bob
Bob
6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Bl owners
« on: February 18, 2015, 09:55:19 PM »
I am very satisfied with my 34/44, first year using an outdoor boiler.
I would recommend them to others as I cannot see any downside to them.
The upward draft from below as well as above is unbeatable. For the past two weeks I have burned fresh cut oak and maple blocks ( 2/3 ) mixed with some of my fully dried wood (1/3). Everything disappears.
I am expecting to receive a load of Black Locust logs tomorrow, cut today. This has been grown up here in a small plantation.
I have researched this wood quite a bit and am anxious to try it out.
I had originally been looking at the Optimizer 250 but decided I wanted something more flexible re wood, and this consumes anything.
Bob
I would recommend them to others as I cannot see any downside to them.
The upward draft from below as well as above is unbeatable. For the past two weeks I have burned fresh cut oak and maple blocks ( 2/3 ) mixed with some of my fully dried wood (1/3). Everything disappears.
I am expecting to receive a load of Black Locust logs tomorrow, cut today. This has been grown up here in a small plantation.
I have researched this wood quite a bit and am anxious to try it out.
I had originally been looking at the Optimizer 250 but decided I wanted something more flexible re wood, and this consumes anything.
Bob
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Comments on how Good you smell from stoking your fire.
« on: January 13, 2015, 08:46:58 AM »
My wife doesn't mind at all, we have always heated with wood. She just jokes that I have to watch it if the dogs get hungry they might start chewing on my leg.
Bob
Bob
8
Plumbing / Re: Good laugh
« on: December 18, 2014, 09:15:14 PM »
Well, at least the idiot didn't call 911.
Bob
Bob
9
Fire Wood / Re: length of wood
« on: November 29, 2014, 10:51:10 PM »
So I am a newbie with OWB's. This is my first year using one after 30+ years of heating with wood stoves. I have a lot of 16/18 inch wood stove ready wood in the shed but I have been harvesting standing dead or damaged trees to use in order to preserve the small stuff for maple syrup come spring, had a shortage of firewood last year. Since my unit has a fan which blows up from under the fire and also above the fire, I have been tossing in 36 inch pieces of Cherry and Ash unsplit on the fire then I toss some beech or maple blocks, around 16 to 20 inch on top, everything burns front to back. Poke them into place with a shovel if needed. No complaints at all. Have used little of my small wood so far. I love OWB's. So going forward I will cut and split some 20/24 inch ( splitter is max 24 " ) for the boiler and the evaporator, and any logs under say 8 inches will be cut and stacked at 36/38 length, not split.
This idea of having a fan blow from under the fire bed is available now in maple syrup evaporators, these all come with an insulated door with heavy latches, my neigbour bought one last year, the fire just roars.
Bob
This idea of having a fan blow from under the fire bed is available now in maple syrup evaporators, these all come with an insulated door with heavy latches, my neigbour bought one last year, the fire just roars.
Bob
10
Fire Wood / Re: stacking firewood vs leaving in pile
« on: November 29, 2014, 10:21:53 PM »
I cut and split wood in the spring and stack it immediately in the wood shed. which faces the sun, 39 feet long 10 feet deep has a raised 8 inch base of gravel. It has a sloped roof and good overhang, no walls. ( Easier to put in and take out wood that way. ) Wood burns just fine by October.
Bob
Bob
11
Fire Wood / Re: The Dreaded task of buying wood from Craigslist
« on: November 29, 2014, 10:12:48 PM »
I would talk to people in your area that are buying wood now, if you can find anyone. Only order one full ( bush ) cord, and any subsequent orders will depend on that one. If you do find a reliable seller then stick with him. I would be surprised that a good supplier would be using craiglist to find customers. If you know your trees you could consider locating a logger and get a tandem load, ( without the pup trailer ) that should be around 8/9 full cords. Estimates of those loads vary too, some say 10/12 cords............maybe some others here can advise what they believe a tandem truck holds according to their experience. I judged mine from the resulting pile in my wood shed ( I know its dimensions ) when cut and stacked.
Bob
Bob
12
HeatMaster / Re: Pics of my new setup!!
« on: November 27, 2014, 08:03:32 PM »good job ... !!
Avtalaska, that's a beauty, I must remember that one for the kids this winter.
Thanks,
Bob
13
HeatMaster / Re: Pics of my new setup!!
« on: November 27, 2014, 08:01:33 PM »
A good looking set up Lucky! 
Very clean and organized.
Bob
Very clean and organized.
Bob
14
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Sidearm Dilemma
« on: November 26, 2014, 06:03:48 PM »
I added a very small circ on my side arm to push the water through and circulate in the tank, has to be bronze though, since the domestic hot water is considered potable. 
Bob
Bob
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cast Iron Radiators
« on: November 26, 2014, 05:51:09 PM »
I have 13 in my house, 2 in my shop.
Each is on its own loop, 3/4 pex where out of site and copper where visible, with ball valves at both sides of the manifold but each has a rad valve attached for direct control. A KISS set up. This was my goal as a newbie to OWB.
At this point what I have found is that judging from the weather I can adjust my mixing valve above the HX so I can send some return water back to the rads, and also the flow to the out put sid of the manifold has a valve, so I can reduce the flow to the rads. I am running the house system ( secondary ) on a small 3 speed pump, currently just on the lowest setting. Furthermore I run the primary on the same size pump, also on the lowest setting, .78 amps. Therefore I believe I have adequate heating capacity in reserve, and often when the house is too warm during the day I switch off the secondary completely. Keeping the two DHW units and an aquarium room and 750 sq ft shop heated.
Any more questions and I will try to help.
Bob
Each is on its own loop, 3/4 pex where out of site and copper where visible, with ball valves at both sides of the manifold but each has a rad valve attached for direct control. A KISS set up. This was my goal as a newbie to OWB.
At this point what I have found is that judging from the weather I can adjust my mixing valve above the HX so I can send some return water back to the rads, and also the flow to the out put sid of the manifold has a valve, so I can reduce the flow to the rads. I am running the house system ( secondary ) on a small 3 speed pump, currently just on the lowest setting. Furthermore I run the primary on the same size pump, also on the lowest setting, .78 amps. Therefore I believe I have adequate heating capacity in reserve, and often when the house is too warm during the day I switch off the secondary completely. Keeping the two DHW units and an aquarium room and 750 sq ft shop heated.
Any more questions and I will try to help.
Bob