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 1 
 on: May 20, 2020, 10:30:24 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by mlappin
Norseman is good, I also have a set of Huot thats holding up reasonably well. MSC Direct also has a good selection.

Best bet is to learn how to sharpen em, Drill Doctor donít count either as they are crap. On a good day I can grind a split point back into a broken bit, on a REALLY good day I can sharpen my 3 flute 1 3/4Ē bit and have all three flutes make curls evenly. Drill a bunch of 1/2 or 5/8 holes in a semi frame and you get good quick.

Canít remember the brand, but the welding shop in town has some real high dollar ones, like $25-30 for one 3/8Ē bit.

 2 
 on: May 20, 2020, 10:10:28 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by juddspaintballs
Drill slow, use a good drilling oil.  Norseman makes a good bit, especially if you use the slow and lubed approach.  They should last a long time.  If you're really drilling high carbon steel, a cobalt bit will help, but it can still be done at a low speed with lube with a standard quality HSS bit. 


Drill bits:
https://www.amazon.com/44170-Norseman-set-de-Bit/dp/B00627C8ZU/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=norseman+drill+bits&link_code=qs&qid=1590033141&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2


Cutting oil:
https://www.amazon.com/Forney-20857-Magic-Industrial-Cutting/dp/B003X3ZKXI/ref=pd_bxgy_2/141-5762093-5951527?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003X3ZKXI&pd_rd_r=72a7aef2-1876-4c80-a579-375c75a38f22&pd_rd_w=zZVDP&pd_rd_wg=hdxZH&pf_rd_p=4e3f7fc3-00c8-46a6-a4db-8457e6319578&pf_rd_r=R8DJA05R5Q7H7FFYQ2WH&psc=1&refRID=R8DJA05R5Q7H7FFYQ2WH



This chart will work up to 1/2" for twist drills. 


 3 
 on: May 20, 2020, 04:00:01 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by wreckit87
What's your favorite drill bit for carbon steel? I've bought about 20 different sets over the years all claiming to be the best and they all either dull very quickly, bend, or break when the final grab happens drilling though steel. DeWalt and Milwaukee I think were the worst, ironically enough. About all that's left is the $10 set from Harbor Freight but I'm pretty sure I'd have better luck trying to burn through steel by lighting that $10 bill on fire. I did recently buy a set of Irwin bits for my job trailer and they've been great but that's pretty light duty stuff for the most part so I don't know how they would perform in drill press duty. At this point I'd gladly pay top dollar for something that's not always dull or broken

 4 
 on: May 20, 2020, 06:40:36 AM 
Started by Roger2561 - Last post by Walleye
About a week ago I turned the heat side off, just heating hot water until I get ready to shut down. Had to turn the heat back on this morning also. Cold damp rain here. I wonder if summer is ever going to get here?   

 5 
 on: May 20, 2020, 02:20:50 AM 
Started by Roger2561 - Last post by E Yoder
I can't believe it, I'm heating again tonight. It's a very wet sort of cold. We've had several inches the last day or so, with more all week.
 Gives me the chills, and I've got to install a stove in the rain today.   Brr. :)

 6 
 on: May 13, 2020, 09:51:56 PM 
Started by Roger2561 - Last post by Radio Tech1964
I've shut down once or twice first time due to running out of wood.Second time was due to mother nature fooling with the climate. I just thought I was done.  Hoping this weekend will the charm. It's not been a seriously cold winter but it seems to have dragged on for longer than usual.  I have to replace a door gasket along with a major cleaning inside and out.

Wt

 7 
 on: May 11, 2020, 10:02:31 AM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by RSI
From what you described, I think recessing in an electrical duct from the panel to the ceiling would be as good as anything. Then you can either put a junction box at the top or just run the conduits right into the cover panel.

 8 
 on: May 10, 2020, 05:29:52 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by Cabo
Iím currently doing a similar application for a woodworking shop. I did install wiring in the walls and ceiling before insulation and Sheetrock for lights and 120 volt outlets. I ran a 2Ē PVC conduit from the panel and elbowed out at the ceiling to an 8X8 pull box. From there I will build a conduit system (EMT) as I get a feel for where various machines will go(mostly #10 wire runs). Remember to start from the pull box with a large enough conduit and neck down the sizes the further you go and fewer wires installed. You can also run multiple conduits from the pull box which will use smaller conduit (easier to work with) but might look busier. People who work with conduit regularly make it look easy but it can be frustrating if you use it only on occasion (like myself). Good planning and patience is are two words of advice. Hope this helps.

 9 
 on: May 09, 2020, 02:35:54 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by wreckit87
I set 4/12 trusses on top and wrapped the whole thing with ribbed steel so it looks like any other shed, same colors to match my shop. Inside is pretty lame looking, all the freezer panels were used so they're beat up and full of butyl caulk (from between the panel seams for moisture barrier when it was a freezer) and have weird holes and stuff everywhere from lights, conduit, evaporators, shelving, refrigerant lines, etc but it works. I was originally going to frame another 2x4 wall inside just to hide all the sin but decided I didn't care that much what it looks like in there, I didn't even paint it. As for the heat, it'll be all electric during shoulder seasons and maybe fulltime if I get sick of burning wood. I did bury 25mm Thermopex over there from the OWB and ran a unit heater last winter but I also have 6 loops in the slab and 3 more loops of radiant on the ceiling. Heat loss of this whole building (1560 sq ft) at 70 inside and -30 outside is only 17,000 BTU so even on electric a bad month would only be $50 or so

 10 
 on: May 09, 2020, 05:41:03 AM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by E Yoder
Sounds like a nice garage. I've never done what you've done mounting a panel in foam. But one huge concern- surely you're not going to heat with electric! Lol.

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