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 1 
 on: Today at 08:48:20 AM 
Started by DBeleskey - Last post by DBeleskey

Well, it ran great last night with no issue. I took some pictures of the controllers. I think the main controller is letting it get to hot before shutting off and it just keeps getting hotter slowly though the day when not used much until the high limit shut thing down. Not sure though. Here are the pictures of the controllers and the temp gauge outside...

 2 
 on: Today at 03:57:10 AM 
Started by DBeleskey - Last post by slimjim
I think you are talking about the wrong boiler Marty, unless Iím mistaken, itís a Polar which does not use a fancy control to monitor temperature settings, just simple Honeywell aquastats. Itís possible that the control aquastats may have briefly stuck closed but that would be very rare. Check the control setting itself to be sure that itís not too close to the overlimit setting. In warmer weather I like to set them at least 20 degrees below the high limit.

 3 
 on: November 16, 2019, 04:51:17 PM 
Started by DBeleskey - Last post by mlappin
Odd, youíd just need to fill less on warmer days, it shouldnít overheat just because it was warmer, some use their gasification boilers all summer just for DHW.


Try powering down for a few minutes and restarting it, sometimes just have to power cycle like a modem.

 4 
 on: November 16, 2019, 04:17:10 PM 
Started by DBeleskey - Last post by slimjim
Thatís a really strange one, the fan doesnít run if the heat switch is in the off position, at least itís not supposed to!

 5 
 on: November 16, 2019, 03:48:25 PM 
Started by DBeleskey - Last post by DBeleskey
I have been using my new G2 for just over three weeks now. So far I absolutely love it. It seems to do everything I had hoped it to do and more. I am heating my home of just over 3000 sq ft and DHW. Like I said its been great with the cold start we have had to the year so far. Its has been down to 0 F at night for the past few nights and only hitting highs of between 15 - 20 degrees F through the day.

Today was up to about 20 degrees and sunny so, the sun was heating up my house by itself. After the sun started to go down, I thought I would check to situation of the wood left in the furnace because I would not like to restart it in the dark. As I was walking toward the furnace, I could hear the fan running. Then when I got to the furnace the fan was off. I could hear a slight bubbling sound. I opened the front door and the fan didn't come on, which it always has. So I went around to the control side of the furnace to have a look. The first thing I noticed is that the water was hot and that the HEAT switch was OFF. I turned it back on and the fan came on again when the door was open. The wood was fine so I left it alone.

I assume that the high limit shut the switch off but what I find strange is that if it was near high limit, why was the fan running when I went out ?
I would hazard to guess that the temperature in the house was warm enough that the heat from the boiler was not used all day except for some DHW.

Maybe I should not be stoking it in the mornings when the sun is going to shine ?

Could there be an issue or am I just worrying?

 6 
 on: November 16, 2019, 03:26:51 AM 
Started by dlutter - Last post by E Yoder
Every outdoor boiler should have some kind of flap or damper that closes tightly when it's up to temp, fan or no fan. There might multiple issues with this particular unit. Air leakage, too little or no flow (air lock or damaged pump), I've also seen internal piping in the water jacket on a homemade boiler cause issues if it isn't designed to properly mix.
My guess a HVAC guy might not be able to diagnose unless unless he's really experienced with troubleshooting, you don't have homemade HVAC equipment.
Adding insulation shouldn't cause issues.
Look for air leaks (smoke from the stack should almost stop when up to temp), purge piping with house pressure (replumb if needed to do so), make sure pump is pushing from the stove, not pulling somewhere in the loop.
Post pictures if possible.

 7 
 on: November 15, 2019, 06:20:09 AM 
Started by dlutter - Last post by Scratch
Id guess you have an air bubble in the lines somewhere.  Every system is different on how to bleed it so it'd be hard for us to help out.  Try to use some common sense and hopefully you can find it.  I installed a valve with an open pipe leading to my floor drain just for bleeding air.  Maybe the previous owner did something like that and you're not seeing it yet...?

As to the boiling over, my CB unit doesn't use a fan, it uses a damper to cut off the incoming air once it gets up to temp.  And once it reaches the temp and the damper shuts off, the heat barely rises as the flames pretty much stop immediately.  I'm not sure about those that use a fan and I could be wrong here, but It sounds like it's still sucking in air once it reaches temp and letting the fire get hotter. 

A question for the group... Do stoves that control a fan also shut off a damper, or do they just rely on the stopped fan to control the air to the fire?

 8 
 on: November 14, 2019, 07:19:48 PM 
Started by slimchance - Last post by mlappin
I think it dosen't matter how high you go . Some days the smoke just comes straight back down.


Temperature inversions

 9 
 on: November 14, 2019, 05:28:51 PM 
Started by slimchance - Last post by fireboss
I think it dosen't matter how high you go . Some days the smoke just comes straight back down.

 10 
 on: November 14, 2019, 04:34:38 PM 
Started by dlutter - Last post by RSI
It sounds like an air lock before the pump. Need to make sure no air between the pump and boiler or no water will move. If it has been run that way for a long time then pump is probably bad too.

Where are you located?

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