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[muffin]

Pressurized vs unpressurized is an interesting debate.  I cannot think of any benifits to pressurized as far as hydronics.  I would be interested if anyone knows of any.  The uinpressurized systems seem inherantly simpler and safer.  There is really no mechanism for failure.  Do the pressurized systems still work at 170-180F temperatures?  They would have the benifit of operating at higher temperatures or even going to steam.

[MattyNH]

Pressurized vs unpressurized is an interesting debate.  I cannot think of any benifits to pressurized as far as hydronics.  I would be interested if anyone knows of any.  The uinpressurized systems seem inherantly simpler and safer.  There is really no mechanism for failure.  Do the pressurized systems still work at 170-180F temperatures?  They would have the benifit of operating at higher temperatures or even going to steam.

I take it you don't know hydronics..Your oil/ propane boiler in your basement with forced hot water or radiant heating if you have one..its a close system. (heck your hot water holding tank is a closed system on that note).All indoor wood boilers are a close system..If they were a "open" system in your basement..You would have on hell of a moisture problem in the basement due to they are vented to the air..
Yes pressurized systems still work at 170-180.. My owb water temp  when running which is 7 months out of a yr is 180-185..Yes i could set it at lower temp..But regardless of what ever setting temp desired (includes a "open" system)..It works no harder if it was set at a lower temp..Gonna burn the same amount of wood or work just as hard for what ever temp set..All boilers have a certain degree differential for "on and "off"
Far a safeness like was mentioned..There is 2 relief valves on the OWB.. Plus a honneywell thermostat which it comes with (OWB) and then installed on the oil boiler then hooked into the control box..So if the 2 relief  valves fail on the owb and the water temp get above 210F (which I'm set at) water temp..My upstairs heat automatically comes on to dump the heat.. 5 yrs going never had a "bypass" problem...Plus you have all the relief valves on the oil boiler.( Im directly hooked to my oil boiler no heat exchanger needed for forced hot water)
Boilerman: Ive never had a plumbing contractor inspect the relief valves.. The manual states "should" not "have" like you posted ..In fact replaced one myself last fall cause it was leaking..Not sure what the hell insurance companies have to do with it..Far as the "corrosion inhibitor" all thats for is the ph if needed..

[boilerman]

Hey Matty, I don't know a lot about pressurized OWF's so I googled an Aquatherm Owners manual and tried to share the info in it.
I personally don't like the extra risks and issues of a pressurized OWF system, but hey, to each their own.
Here is the link to the Aquatherm Owners Manual I found:
akwarmwood.com/products/docs/AQUA-THERM%20MANUAL%20(0108).pdf
Page 45 is where they discuss saftey percausions and recommendations.
The final page is their warranty, where they say owner must use corrosion inhibitor or void warranty.
Does not matter to me if you follow them or not. You may know more than the manufacture. I'm rather anal about reading owners manuals and following instructions, especially when it comes to safety and warranty concerns. I just felt readers should make their own decisions based on manufactures recommendations.
As to what insurance companies have to do with anything..........if an owner installs himself incorrectly and does not have record of proper maintenance, insurance companies are often quick to point the errors out if a problem happens and the owner may be hung out to dry. The way I read the owners manual, if operator has a water jacket problem and no corrosion inhibitor was used or maintained,  you are on your own on that one too.
 

[MattyNH]

Hey Matty, I don't know a lot about pressurized OWF's so I googled an Aquatherm Owners manual and tried to share the info in it.
I personally don't like the extra risks and issues of a pressurized OWF system, but hey, to each their own.
Here is the link to the Aquatherm Owners Manual I found:
akwarmwood.com/products/docs/AQUA-THERM%20MANUAL%20(0108).pdf
Page 45 is where they discuss saftey percausions and recommendations.
The final page is their warranty, where they say owner must use corrosion inhibitor or void warranty.
Does not matter to me if you follow them or not. You may know more than the manufacture. I'm rather anal about reading owners manuals and following instructions, especially when it comes to safety and warranty concerns. I just felt readers should make their own decisions based on manufactures recommendations.
As to what insurance companies have to do with anything..........if an owner installs himself incorrectly and does not have record of proper maintenance, insurance companies are often quick to point the errors out if a problem happens and the owner may be hung out to dry. The way I read the owners manual, if operator has a water jacket problem and no corrosion inhibitor was used or maintained,  you are on your own on that one too.

   Hey Boilerman...Your definitely in-titled to your opinion on what type of OWB you prefer...Like you said to each there own. I have the paperback manual for my OWB..I wanna make one point on the manuals on these OWB's or any manual on that matter..OWB roughly cost 10k when its all said and done..Your new vehicle in your driveway probably cost 20k or more.I do not know one person that sticks to the car manual for the life of the vehicle or in fact on anything they own! Its pretty hard to stick to the manual..If you were to stick to the manual and had a problem..I bet the manufacture would still try to find something saying its your fault on a big claim
Far as insurance companies..It varies from state to state..Ill give a good example..A home owner in the state of NH can wire there own house with no electrical license..All you have to do is get it inspected by the town or city when done..Nothing to do with insurance..Maybe in your state insurance is the mother hen of what you can and can't do..But in NH not the case..Heck there's no seat belt law in NH for adults.. Being a odd law state is guess thats why we have the "Live Free Or Die" motto

[MattyNH]

Not to offend, but It should be "Live free and Die" in the "Granite head state" we live in Matty. As an Electrician who worked hard to obtain an Electrical License in NH, it is unbelieveable that any homeowner can install wiring in their own residence without some kind of knowledge in the electrical trade. No inspection needed if the residence is already occupied and the work is done without a permit. Never mind the fact that most Inspectors are not even Licensed Electricians. All is fine and good until that same house gets sold with an advertisement of " new wiring".  BY WHO?  You may have bought a firetrap wired by happy homeowner who knows nothing about Electrical code ( happens to be the minimum standard of safe wiring). I also believe one needs a license to install a pressure heating system in NH. Unless it is done (covert) without permit or inspector. Not for sure but a plumbers license has diffrent catagories like gas and heating systems. Remember the family in Moultonboro who had their house explode killing their daughter from a faulty gas install, I believe that prompted the Gas install licensing law in NH. Always make sure pressure relief valves work properly, especially if your temps exceed boiling temps. All is good if your systems are used as your own and not sold to some unsuspecting buyer who thinks the systems are installed by professionals when in fact they are not. Just my opinion.

It is unbelieveable....My owb boiler was hooked up my a plumber..I just laid the piping and stuff.. And I agree

[vagabonddreamer]

 :)lol...dont get me going on electricians...they squeal if anybody touches wire...but will butcher a truss pretending to be a carpenter and all is well!!! black to back white to white...how complicated is THAT :bash:lol...

so back to the boilers...i am in even MORE of a quandary since i started the post!!  have not made a decision re pressure/non pressure as there are valid points on both...the next thing i have noted is there is a significant move towards "round" fire chambers...whaddaya guys think about the validity of less welds in the fire chamber...if it is seamless schedule pipe like they use in the oil patch...do you think there is less chance of leaks???  i know that the question can be answered to a certain extent based on the ability of the welder...the owb that i use now...i have re-welded several times...it almost looks like the original welder was running too hot...made the metal brittle...i also think the steel itself might be suspect...vs