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[todd.crow]

How have you liked the half wall you put in the boiler? I am thinking about trying it on my 6048. The same thing happens to me when my Dad loads the boiler. I also think that it would probably increase the heat transfer.

Thanks
Todd

[kj5036]

I love it. I dont know why it doesnt come that way. I think it helps ALOT with better heat transfer, hotter firebox(which makes recovery faster), and keeps things contained. I was just gonna try it out and then remove it but i liked it so much that I kept it in. Im convinced it reduces wood consumption cause ive talked to alot of people with boilers that use WAY more wood with similar set-ups. After this winter im gonna make a heavy duty one thats braced but that I can still remove(for cleaning in summer). It has 2 drawbacks...1) you get more smoke out the door(which i dont care) 2) It makes the firebox a little shorter(but you dont want wood past the baffle anyway).

[dwneast77]

Great looking setup!!!      I checked out your thread from start to finish today.  I only have a couple questions.  I'm curious why you didn't just put the pump right at the back of the boiler??  No worries about trying to support it hanging that way.  Also, and I guess your setup isn't that uncommon from what someone on here said to me the other day, is I'm curious about your supply to your furnace HX??  I see that you have the water flowing through the HX all the time?? I assume the pump runs 24/7 since you have it piped through a plate exchanger.  I guess my point is, are you having excessive heat in your home from the natural convection of heat through your HX and duct work??  My dealer strongly suggested I use a 3-way zone valve so the water bypassed the HX until there is call for heat.  I didn't question it and assumed everyone would use the same setup.  I ran mine for one night with the zone valve manually opened before I finished my furnace wiring and my house heated up over 80 degrees.  Too warm for me.  Just curious.  Great job with everything!!

Jeff

Oh, props to you for taking the initiative to "modify" a new stove.  Your baffle idea is a good one.  I have 2 gassers so it's not an idea I can utilize, totally different setup.  I've had to take things into my own hands with my CB E-2300 though also.  Totally re-did the primary air supply since the original          1. plugged up with no way to clean it out         2.  was falling apart. 

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[Jack72]

Great looking setup!!!      I checked out your thread from start to finish today.  I only have a couple questions.  I'm curious why you didn't just put the pump right at the back of the boiler??  No worries about trying to support it hanging that way.  Also, and I guess your setup isn't that uncommon from what someone on here said to me the other day, is I'm curious about your supply to your furnace HX??  I see that you have the water flowing through the HX all the time?? I assume the pump runs 24/7 since you have it piped through a plate exchanger.  I guess my point is, are you having excessive heat in your home from the natural convection of heat through your HX and duct work??  My dealer strongly suggested I use a 3-way zone valve so the water bypassed the HX until there is call for heat.  I didn't question it and assumed everyone would use the same setup.  I ran mine for one night with the zone valve manually opened before I finished my furnace wiring and my house heated up over 80 degrees.  Too warm for me.  Just curious.  Great job with everything!!

Jeff

Oh, props to you for taking the initiative to "modify" a new stove.  Your baffle idea is a good one.  I have 2 gassers so it's not an idea I can utilize, totally different setup.  I've had to take things into my own hands with my CB E-2300 though also.  Totally re-did the primary air supply since the original          1. plugged up with no way to clean it out         2.  was falling apart.



Very nice.      I would be scared on using regular pipe clamps though.                If I were you I would make sure to tighten all those clamps now that everything is heated up   I just don't trust those clamps they strip out to easy  just my .02.       Jack

[dwneast77]

Those clamps have been the greatest things in the world actually.  Not like the cheap junk you get locally.  Those came from CB and I have never stripped one or had a leak in 5 years.  I have used some regular clamps on my 1 1/4" lines but I double clamped those and have not had any trouble.  And most of my connections in my greenhouses now are all crimped.  I only used the clamps for my initial home setup.  They were about $1 ea.  Expensive yes, and I would not want to have to use a lot of them, but they are worth the money. 

Jeff

Oops!!  I see I need to eat my words.  You are correct Jack.  I went back and looked at it.  I had to stop and think as to why some of the clamps were changed out (originally they were all CB clamps).  Last year I needed to add in a couple of "T"s out in my greenhouse where the lines are not too conspicuous.  I needed 6 clamps and I wanted to make sure there were no leaks out there.  So the cheap clamps are located where I can readily see them and would notice leakage.  So far so good.  Now that I have my own PEX crimping tool I'll probably change them out before next season.  Oh by the way Lowe's has a great crimping kit, does 4 sizes PEX for about $100.  Another $20 for the cutting tool.  Great buy I think!!  Works every bit as good as the expensive one that my True Value guy let me borrow a few times.  Looks almost identical. 

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[Yooper]

Maybe Central Boiler should use your pictures as promotional material.  They are good!

The baffle you put in makes a longer path for the smoke (exhaust).  I'll bet the smoke stays in the boiler just a little longer.  This gives it more time to transfer the heat to your boiler.  I also wonder if you have better combustion since the smoke has to go to the top part of the boiler where it's the hottest.  The unburned gases in the smoke may then have a chance to burn giving you more heat and a cleaner burn.  My wood stove has a sliding baffle and I really see a difference when it's pulled out.

I hope you give an update and pictures on how it works on a really cold day.  I wonder if heat loss from the Pex will melt the snow above.

[kj5036]

dwneast77, my pump is supported good...no worries. I wanted the pump in the house for a couple reasons.
1) so I can monitor real easy by just walking down stairs 2) if I have to change it out(because if it fails itll be in the mid of winter) it will be easy and more conveniant 3) pumps put out ALOT of heat through the casing and also the motor gives off alot of heat and id rather have that escape to the house 4) it made it easier to insulate inside the door of the stove.

My pump is only about 50' from stove and is a couple feet lower in elevation so im not worried about cavitation. Everything is working great.

I have bypasses also on my furnace HX and my hot water HX also. If I was gonna run through the summer I would def bypass the furnace cause there is alot of heat radiating up through the plenum but when its chilly outside I love it. I like the constant heat it provides(keeps my blower from kickin on as much). I like the zone valve and only opening up when its needed but I would like to have one on my hot water HX(20 plate) instead.

I shouldnt see any snow melt where my pex is. Im using Thermopex and is a short run. I currently dont see any loss when its in the 20s. My complete loop is 120' and ALL well insulated. Fingers crossed

Oh i forgot to mention burn times...the other day I filled at 4am in morning and didnt get back to it till 9pm that night. Of course it was completely out of wood but water temp was only down to 160. set point is 170-185. Thought that was pretty good since it was chilly that day in the 30s with high winds. Thats also burning box elder lol I contibute part of it to maintaining a high ash bed. Ash puts out alot of heat!

[woodywoodchucker]

I love it. I dont know why it doesnt come that way. I think it helps ALOT with better heat transfer, hotter firebox(which makes recovery faster), and keeps things contained. I was just gonna try it out and then remove it but i liked it so much that I kept it in. Im convinced it reduces wood consumption cause ive talked to alot of people with boilers that use WAY more wood with similar set-ups. After this winter im gonna make a heavy duty one thats braced but that I can still remove(for cleaning in summer). It has 2 drawbacks...1) you get more smoke out the door(which i dont care) 2) It makes the firebox a little shorter(but you dont want wood past the baffle anyway).

I like it. could you post the sizes and stuff needed. Ideas like this are so cool. I have the restrictor in place and that helps roduce wood useage as well

[kj5036]

I cant remember the exact sizes but be just be sure not restrict it too much. You want to re-direct it more than anything.

[sabercat]

KJ,

We are heating 1600 sq. ft. house (baseboard) and garage with room above 1200 sq ft (radiant).

All worked well although last year probably wasn't a good indicator i.e. temps. I think we prolly burned 8 cords but that was mostly pine that was removed for an addition.

I still think stopping the insulation at the electronics and just encapsulating the lines and pumps would be a good idea. See what happens. Good luck!

Thats how I did mine

[sabercat]

Its been a couple weeks now and even though it hasnt been cold yet Im loving my 5036! Im really happy with everything except one thing which was driving me nuts. I noticed a piece of wood or two(even tho i would pull everything to the front) would somehow find its way back by the last baffle and would burn straight up out the exhaust. Also when loading sometimes i was afraid a longer piece might be sticking back there and if it was even close i noticed flames blowing under it. I know...who cares...but I DO. So I wanted to put in a half wall before the last baffle. That way it would ensure nothin gets behind it and would also direct flames straight up where its needed. I made a setup to try out and if it works out ok ill add something better next summer. So far I love it. I had the material layin around and only took bout an hour...

I guess I have a hard time, seeing how you put the baffle in, does the smoke have to go under the homemade baffle, or is it just laid in there to keep the wood from, being thrown all the way back to the rear? thanks

[pwdiver]

I might have commented before not sure, I saw your wood piles for the boiler i had to move mine away from the house a pretty good way's. I had more copper head snakes that year in the back yard than i have even seen these where juvenile snakes mother must have been close. I moved the wood pile last year early and did not see the first snake.  Enjoy the wood boiler because I sure have enjoyed our's.