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[ITO]

 My husky manual says 40:1, I use the regular husky 2 cycle oil and mix a gallon at a time, no issues. I don't really buy into the synthetic hype all that much. I do believe that the fuel getting old is something to watch for, I use super premium and keep moving the fuel even if I have to pour the rest of a gallon in the old Buick from time to time.

[racnruss]

I have to agree with that statement too.   I own and operate a tree service for over 16 years now.  I buy Castrol Snowmobile oil a case at a time.  It is just conventional 2 stroke oil  that we mix about 40:1. Probably not exactly measured on the job site.

  The only engine failure in 16 years was a saw that got a tank of pure gas!  Whoops.

At a conservative estimate 5 gallons of premix per week, times 16 years, equals 4,160 GALLONS OF PREMIX! As I've said before, I wish saws had hour meters.

Keep it simple.

[MattyNH]

As far as saws go, I've used whatever 2 cycle oil that was handy at 50:1 for 25 years with no issues what so ever. No sense making things overly complicated.

That being said, there's no oil that smells quite like Klotz coming out of a 2 stroke.

Gregg


I have to agree with that statement too.   I own and operate a tree service for over 16 years now.  I buy Castrol Snowmobile oil a case at a time.  It is just conventional 2 stroke oil  that we mix about 40:1. Probably not exactly measured on the job site.

  The only engine failure in 16 years was a saw that got a tank of pure gas!  Whoops.

At a conservative estimate 5 gallons of premix per week, times 16 years, equals 4,160 GALLONS OF PREMIX! As I've said before, I wish saws had hour meters.

Keep it simple.

I would have to agree about klotz..I run it in my snowmobile

[suzukidad]

Ran Amsoil 100-1 for years in air cooled motocross bikes and it worked  great. There was a study done once that tested oil ratio with its relation to power. For MX motors, it was found that 40:1 performed best siting better ring seal. Not sure if it is pertinent with chain saws however it shows that oil provides other value than just lubricating bearings. We never deviate more than 10% from manufacturers suggested ratio.

[nstueve]

40:1 - 45:1 with full synthetic 2 cycle mix

I don't care what people want to run their mouth about. I use the same formulation for tree service equipment and when an gas line blows and the saw gets really lean the P&C still get enough oil to protect it.

Talk to any professional that ports saws for a living and they will say the same thing.

Protect the investment of a expensive saw and use a little more quality oil.

Also keep in mind that changing the mix ratio also changes the viscosity of the fuel mix and the rate at which it flow through the carb. Saws should be tuned to the fuel it will be using. 

[Pinehouse4]

I use Stihl oil but always run 40 to 1 ratio.

I have two Stilhs, 028 and 046.

Bob

[mlappin]

If you absolutely must use more oil than recommended, then definitely spring for 93 octane gas.

I just follow manufacturers recommendations. I use the Stihl synthetic oil and 89 octane gas.

[diesel-dodge]

I agree with the amsoil saber. I have used it for 3 yrs after mobil stopped making racing 2t. I also like opti 2. I honestly don't like using premium anymore. I have had more problems with carbs in my saws using premium. I now do a 50/50 mix of Av fuel and a good mid grade. I thionk the 93 sits in the tanks for a lot longer period of time between refilling could be a possible cause.
jason

[Jwood]

Jack72 could you fill us in a bit more as to what stihl saws are professional grade saws because they all begin with MS now?

[TheBoiler]

Stihl list their pro saws on their web site.

Most of the time I use non ethanol gas, just need to make sure I remember to get it when I am passing places that stock it. 93 or 91, my ATV likes at least 91.

[Jwood]

Mines a professional

[idahohay]

Not sure what stihl is doing on current model pro saws but my own 044 (about 10 years old now) came with restrictors on the carb adjusting screws. Mine always showed signs of running too lean. It really screamed and the HS adjuster could not be opened any more.  This continued right up until the piston scortched on the exhaust side.  (Scott will know well what that looks like)  Since then I learned how simple they are to rebuild and also how simple it is to REMOVE the plastic limiters on the carb adjusting screws so the mixture can be adjusted properly. I was informed that the limiters were an attempt to meet emission standards and the saws were intentionally sold running lean.

Another thing about Amsoil 100:1.  Ever notice how thick it is?  Lets say the viscosity was reduced by diluting it with an equal volume of gas, then divide it in two. Now you would have a oil that resembles the viscocity of the 40 or 50 to 1 oils and and could be mixed at those ratios as well.

[mlappin]

Since then I learned how simple they are to rebuild and also how simple it is to REMOVE the plastic limiters on the carb adjusting screws so the mixture can be adjusted properly. I was informed that the limiters were an attempt to meet emission standards and the saws were intentionally sold running lean.

Yes they are to meet emissions. Small four strokes are sold the same way but those can't even be adjusted anymore. We had problems with our water transfer pumps that we handle water for spraying with. Used to just run the choke on a click or two, since then I've bought a set of jet drills, find the one that just fits the jet then drill it out one size larger than that, haven't seized up an engine since.

[TheBoiler]

You can buy the double d screwdrivers on the web, or Dremel works to slot the screws.

Touch wood I have not had problems yet, but I am at high altitude, less oxygen they run richer?

[mlappin]

Touch wood I have not had problems yet, but I am at high altitude, less oxygen they run richer?

Yup.

Some of these small four strokes we've had aren't even adjustable, only thing adjustable is idle speed. No adjustable jets which is why I drill the high circuit jet.