enoughproblems - Have you had trouble with primary air flow to the firebox??
From day one I don't think my 2300 was gassifying properly. Always has smoke even on warmer days when it shouldn't be visible (since the smoke should only be steam anyway). I know some of that was me trying to learn how to use it and the proper way to burn. I did find that my damper was not lined up properly and CB sent me a re-enforcment kit which seams to have helped that problem though it's hard to reach in there to properly align it so I know it is still not perfect and I have to let a buildup of creosot happen at the bypass damper to help seal the leak. That's one small problem I've had.
I had to replace the fusion combustor, that was another upgrade they did not charge me for. Even the replacement is showing signs of wear now after 3 years.
It eats through grate bars/pipes (even the new stainless ones that supposedly they tested under a torch for 8 months and they still looked new).
I'll need to replace the combustion chamber door before next season, the entire inner steal plate has rotted away and the insulation is diminishing.
Last year I had 2 water leaks and I expect more. I think I need to have a welder come in this year and re-line much of the firebox. I found quite a soft spot on the left hand wall that I know is getting thin. Plus I know a guy with the same unit that had to fix much of his right side wall for the same reason (both of us on season 4).
Replaced the draft fan last year.
Getting back to my question regarding the air channel, that has been my biggest problem that has plagued me since the beginning. The whole channel filled up with creosote and ash and as you know there is no way to get inside it to clean it out. Beyond that, the channel started to deteriorate. I had a welder fix it, I think on season 3 (we cleaned it out the best we could while it was cut open). By last year, the piece he replaced was almost completely gone leaving an even bigger gap. I said forget this. When the welder came in again we set up a new channel (based on my second boiler, Wood Doctor HE 10000) and we cut out the back portion of the air channel exposing the air inlet pipe from the back to which we inserted a piece of pipe and channeled the air to the top of the firebox and directed it to each side of the firebox to try to get even flow. That worked ok, better than what it was and I finished out the season. This year I came up with a new plan which has been almost flawless and requires very little attention. Most of all it's removable for cleaning if necessary (which I finally had to do the other day as one side stopped getting air flow). I'll attach some pics. If this is an issue for you then this is a very good and relatively easy and inexpensive fix at less than $150. It could probably be done cheaper yet by just using longer pipe with threaded ends and drilling holes in it.
One thing I've changed is the Tee at the inlet. In the pictures there is a bushing with I think a 1" hole so there was air blowing out there. This was done for a creosote drain. I've since removed the bushing and screwed in a nipple which rests just off the firebox floor. Ash builds around it and stops air from coming out and I get no more creosote build-up backing up to my inlet pipe/elbow where the solenoid/damper is. Overall, this makes for a much more user friendly atmosphere for me. Keep in mind, I use this thing very heavily at night. I have an extremely high demand overnight as I heat my home, domestic hot water, and 4 greenhouses. This takes both boilers and a pile of wood for me to accomplish. I will say that the 2300 uses less than 1/2 the amount of wood that the Wood Doctor does, esp. now that it's burning good and clean and hot the way it's supposed to.
Any questions, I'd be happy to help. I have the invoice showing all the parts I used and sizes if you or anyone else are interested.
Jeff
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