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[kayakerski]

Hello everyone. I have a quick and probably stupid question for those of you with more experience than I.

I am getting ready to replumb my owb where it connects to my oil furnace because the supply enters the bottom of the boiler. I want it to enter the top and I need to add a small section of black iron to strap an aquastat to.

I figured it would be very easy, at least on the owb end, because I have ball valves right there. Unfortunately the ball valve on the supply line is right where I need to put a 90 down to the top of the furnace.

I plan on shutting the ball valve at my owb to isolate the supply line and i'm also going to shut all pertenant valves on my furnace too.

My question is: If I have a ball valve ready to be inserted, can I just cut the line and insert it real fast without losing too much water or should I drain the line? I guess my main concern is water pressure coming out of the line when I cut it.

Thanks,

Gregg

[kayakerski]

Hmm. I assume it will be ok? I'm just trying to keep as much of my water as possible since my well is iffy sometimes.

Gregg

[CountryBoyJohn]

I'd say it depends on how much head you have on those lines.  And how wet you want to get.  Are you in the house or in the garage or outside?  If it were me, and I was in a location that would be bad to get wet, I would drain it.  If I was in my garage, I'd probably give it a go.  In fact, I will probably be doing something like this soon with a temperature gauge.  I have valves very close to my spot, so I will not be draining it and I am in the garage at this location. 

[slimjim]

I gather you did not use a plate exchager?

[Roger2561]

Hello everyone. I have a quick and probably stupid question for those of you with more experience than I.

I am getting ready to replumb my owb where it connects to my oil furnace because the supply enters the bottom of the boiler. I want it to enter the top and I need to add a small section of black iron to strap an aquastat to.

I figured it would be very easy, at least on the owb end, because I have ball valves right there. Unfortunately the ball valve on the supply line is right where I need to put a 90 down to the top of the furnace.

I plan on shutting the ball valve at my owb to isolate the supply line and i'm also going to shut all pertenant valves on my furnace too.

My question is: If I have a ball valve ready to be inserted, can I just cut the line and insert it real fast without losing too much water or should I drain the line? I guess my main concern is water pressure coming out of the line when I cut it.

Thanks,

Gregg

Gregg - On my E-Classic 1400 I have 2 ball valves at the OWB; one before the circ pump and one after the circ pump.  What I would do is shut off the circ pump (Mine I unplug from the outlet that's mounted on the air box) and then shut both of the valves.  That "may" limit the amount of water loss at your oil/gas burner.  You'll still lose some water simply due to gravity, but not all of it.  You'll still have to purge the air from the OWB pex to oil/gas burner and the return line to the OWB.  Be careful.  The water in the pex from the OWB will be very hot if you have fired it already.  After you  have everything connected and the air purged from the pex, open both valves (before and after the circ pump) and then plug in the pump.   

If you have any questions operating your E-Classic 1400, this is my 3rd season and perhaps I may be able to offer some hints on how to operate it.  First hint - Be mindful of creosote buildup in the primary air holes on both sides and the back of the firebox.  I clean them every other week.  Also, the primary air solenoid elbow where the blower is located (open the air box) will clog too along with the nipple to which the elbow was connected will fill with creosote.  I clean mine once a month.  Good luck!  Roger   

[kayakerski]

No, I think one is in my future but right now I can only do a little at a time. Had I known it was an issue I would have but Central Boiler says a depressurized system is ok and so did my install guy. I didn't realize I was going to comprimise the longevity of my existing system as well as cause other issues. I was told there was more heat loss with an HX (if I remember correctly).

In any case, right now the first goal is to reroute the supply and return so water enters through the top of my oil furnace and exits the bottom. In the process I'm putting in temp guages (they seem like good diagnostic tools) and a 10"+ black iron nipple so I'll be ready for a strap on aquastat in the near future. I also need a new pressure relief valve now too.

I guess I should look at making provisions for a heat exchanger too? Possible some extra ball valves?

Gregg

[kayakerski]

I'd say it depends on how much head you have on those lines.  And how wet you want to get.  Are you in the house or in the garage or outside?  If it were me, and I was in a location that would be bad to get wet, I would drain it.  If I was in my garage, I'd probably give it a go.  In fact, I will probably be doing something like this soon with a temperature gauge.  I have valves very close to my spot, so I will not be draining it and I am in the garage at this location.

I'm in my basement with a sloped floor and good drainaged. I think there will be about 5 gallons in the pipe based on 1" pex holding 3.04 gallons per 100'. The ball valve on my owb is about 6-10' above where I'll be working. Maybe less.

[kayakerski]

Hello everyone. I have a quick and probably stupid question for those of you with more experience than I.

I am getting ready to replumb my owb where it connects to my oil furnace because the supply enters the bottom of the boiler. I want it to enter the top and I need to add a small section of black iron to strap an aquastat to.

I figured it would be very easy, at least on the owb end, because I have ball valves right there. Unfortunately the ball valve on the supply line is right where I need to put a 90 down to the top of the furnace.

I plan on shutting the ball valve at my owb to isolate the supply line and i'm also going to shut all pertenant valves on my furnace too.

My question is: If I have a ball valve ready to be inserted, can I just cut the line and insert it real fast without losing too much water or should I drain the line? I guess my main concern is water pressure coming out of the line when I cut it.

Thanks,

Gregg

Gregg - On my E-Classic 1400 I have 2 ball valves at the OWB; one before the circ pump and one after the circ pump.  What I would do is shut off the circ pump (Mine I unplug from the outlet that's mounted on the air box) and then shut both of the valves.  That "may" limit the amount of water loss at your oil/gas burner.  You'll still lose some water simply due to gravity, but not all of it.  You'll still have to purge the air from the OWB pex to oil/gas burner and the return line to the OWB.  Be careful.  The water in the pex from the OWB will be very hot if you have fired it already.  After you  have everything connected and the air purged from the pex, open both valves (before and after the circ pump) and then plug in the pump.   

If you have any questions operating your E-Classic 1400, this is my 3rd season and perhaps I may be able to offer some hints on how to operate it.  First hint - Be mindful of creosote buildup in the primary air holes on both sides and the back of the firebox.  I clean them every other week.  Also, the primary air solenoid elbow where the blower is located (open the air box) will clog too along with the nipple to which the elbow was connected will fill with creosote.  I clean mine once a month.  Good luck!  Roger

Thanks Roger. I have a similar setup to yours and was definitely going to shut those valves.

I also have a valve right where I need to make the cut. I only need to remove a few inches and reinstall the valve and 90. I probably could keep the valve by putting a bow in the line but I want to make it look semi good.

Gregg

P.S.- I've already learned alot about my boiler here. I changed my pulse and duration settings and so fay my boiler has stayed lit (unlike last fall when I had to relight almost every day).

I really wish my local dealer knew more about running and installing CB products than just selling them. They are close and nice people though.

[Roger2561]

No, I think one is in my future but right now I can only do a little at a time. Had I known it was an issue I would have but Central Boiler says a depressurized system is ok and so did my install guy. I didn't realize I was going to comprimise the longevity of my existing system as well as cause other issues. I was told there was more heat loss with an HX (if I remember correctly).

In any case, right now the first goal is to reroute the supply and return so water enters through the top of my oil furnace and exits the bottom. In the process I'm putting in temp guages (they seem like good diagnostic tools) and a 10"+ black iron nipple so I'll be ready for a strap on aquastat in the near future. I also need a new pressure relief valve now too.

I guess I should look at making provisions for a heat exchanger too? Possible some extra ball valves?

Gregg

I purchased my OWB a bit over 2 years ago.  Going on my 3rd season heating with it.  The guy who installed my 1400 installed it the same way yours is set up; directly through the oil furnace, no HX installed.  After reading about and learning of the problems, I installed one this past summer when I wasn't using the OWB.  So far my experience shows about a 15 to 20 temp drop from the incoming to outgoing.  I have installed temp guages on the incoming lines and outgoing lines so I can monitor the water temp too.  So far I see about a 2 degree water temp difference inside the house compared to the what the digital display on the OWB says it is.  I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.   

[kayakerski]

Thats good to know Roger.

I just picked up all of my supplies and plan on swapping the supply and returns, as well as install the new PRV and temp guages tomorrow. Wish me luck!

[Roger2561]

Thats good to know Roger.

I just picked up all of my supplies and plan on swapping the supply and returns, as well as install the new PRV and temp guages tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Good luck. 

[kayakerski]

I don't want to claim victory too soon but my system if fired back up and my radiators are hot and my pumps are quiet so I think I'm set. Only leak so far was at the supply gauge but I took care of it. Hopefully everything stays that way.

So now I have my supply running in the top and return coming from the bottom with guages at both ends and a length of black iron ready for a strap on aquastat in the near future. Next year I'll get a heat exchanger.

My supply temp was 190 and return was 165 last time I looked but the thermostat was at 80 at the time so I could test my radiators.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Gregg

[Roger2561]

I don't want to claim victory too soon but my system if fired back up and my radiators are hot and my pumps are quiet so I think I'm set. Only leak so far was at the supply gauge but I took care of it. Hopefully everything stays that way.

So now I have my supply running in the top and return coming from the bottom with guages at both ends and a length of black iron ready for a strap on aquastat in the near future. Next year I'll get a heat exchanger.

My supply temp was 190 and return was 165 last time I looked but the thermostat was at 80 at the time so I could test my radiators.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Gregg

Gregg, Congratulations!  It sounds like you're heading in the right direction; re-plumbing and all.  The gauges will give you a sense of relief knowing the OWB is operating the way it should without having to go outside to check the water temp. 

I ordered through my CB dealer the digital temperature guage.  It has a thermocouple wire long enough where I can place it in the my living room so I won't have to bother getting up to see what the water temp is doing.  Some may call it lazy, I call it energy conservation.     Roger

[kayakerski]

Yeah I didn't see those remote temp guages until after I had my pipe install or I would have ran the wire in the conduit before I burried it.

I'm really liking my temp guages so far and they seem accurate.

I can't wait to get my aquastat now. Something weird is still going on but I guess the new aquastat will fix it. Even with my oil boiler aquastat set at L=120, H=140, the burner comes on. The temp gauge on the oil boiler reads 160 when it happens. Iguess I'm just going to run my cut in and cut out at 160,180 since it doesn't seem to matter much anyway. Hopefully I can get the new aquastat very soon.

Gregg

Roger, what size heat exchanger do you have?

[slimjim]

The strap on aquastat should cost you around $ 100, I normally use the 50 plate heat exchangers, you can get away with smaller but they will plug up sooner and have more resistance in them reducing water flow.