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[Coyote556]

I have been using photo bucket for years with great success.  It's free too

[EE Farm Boy]

Went to the trucking terminal and picked up my Logstor pipe .  Pics uploaded  http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/library/?sort=3&page=0.  I am using the 1.032 " ID diameter pipe.  I have 170ft going to the house, and then another 65ft going to the shop.  This weekend I plan to uncoil and let it sit for a week or two on the ground to hopefully make it easer to get in the trench once it is dug.  I hope these are the right fittings, the pipe supplier told me these would get me metric compression on the logstor pipe converted to standard male threads.  A little nervous now, when I tried searching KTC I see they have class action lawsuits against them for leaking pex pipe and fittings .  I wanted to double check but I can't determine the size based on what is stamped on top edge of the brass. 

[EE Farm Boy]

After further studying, I have updated the diagrams, a little easier to follow now.  I removed the old ones to not spam the forum with attachments.  I have yet to receive any feedback on these but will keep waiting to hear if this will work. 

Thanks,

[mlappin]

What did you do the drawings with out of curiosity?

Nice work with the sketches. 

I don't know enough about the more involved systems to offer a opinion.

[slimjim]

I am sorry EE, I just saw this, the first heat exchanger inside your wall is a plate exchanger am I right? I would put a ball valve on each side of your fill and drain on the wood boiler loop, you may also want to install a snifter valve there as well, those are the 2 things that popped out at me, I'm going to be Wicked busy for a few days as I'm headed for that job in FLA monday and need to pack a bunch of crap to go with, PM me  or call if you need anything right away.

[EE Farm Boy]

I used Auto Cad for the drawings, but only because it is one of the programs we have access to at work. 

Thanks SlimJim,

If your passing by NC and have time, give me a shout. 

Thanks,

[slimjim]

will Do!

[EE Farm Boy]

Ok, made quite a bit of changes and post the drawings later as I am finalizing my design.  A question on DHW. 

Is there anything wrong with using your water tank as a storage, using a flat plate exchanger with a circulating pump continuously.  Of course the water temp in the water heater will heat to approximately your boiler temp, but then can you use an anit-scalding valve to mix cold water before going to the fixtures? 

It is either do this, or install an aquastat to stop the flow of water through the heat exchanger at the manifold.

Also, what size flat plate, smaller size with more plates, or larger size with few plates or just look at how many BTU's is needed?  if so how many?

Thanks,

[CountryBoyJohn]

Most guys use a 20 plate.  A circulation pump isn't necessary with a plate. It already gets up to 130+ degrees just going through the plates.  So, your mixing valve is already going to be useful.  It'll be a waste of money to heat it higher than that. 

I have my plate exchanger plumbed in before my electric water heater that is turned off at the breaker.  I've never run out of hot water.  I've also gone 3 days without circulating any water though and still had to add a bit of cold water when starting a shower upon my return. 

[EE Farm Boy]

So, the water in the tank itself is just cold and the plate is almost like an on demand water heater I presume? 

So this drawing below is overkill and the bronze pump would not be needed?  Family of 4 and the wife wants endless hot water. 

[EE Farm Boy]

Rented the mini excavator for a week to dig the trench along with many more uses on the Farm and around the house.  After digging the trench, I had to rent a core drill for my install.  Using Logstor pipe so I had bore a 6" hole through 4" of brick and 8 inches of concrete filled cinder block.  Not fun and let's just say I am glad I am not doing this at any older age.  Boring a 6" whole with a hand drill is no easy task but as you can see in the photos: http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/library/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation?sort=3&page=1 It can be done, even thought the guy at the rental place thought I was crazy.  I needed a 6in hole so I could sleeve with 5" PVC and still allow room for the pipe.  Worked great.  The smaller hoes are for my pool piping into the basement where I will plumb to another heat exchanger.   I also had to drill a 6" hole in the 4" slab concrete floor of my shop.  On the outside I dug down a good 3.5" feet to make the turn but for the life of me I can't get the pipe to bend enough to get through the floor and it is not sleeved so there is some room to play with.  I had to call it quites for tonight, I was just too exhausted to continue wrestling this anaconda.  Anyone have any suggestions?  I though about taking a strap to pull the pipe into a bend and hold it while I get it up through the floor.  It has to fit, as the hole is deep enough I just have to figure it out somehow.  Any suggestions? 

Thanks,

[EE Farm Boy]

For anyone needing some help with bending and holding logstor pipe within the spec limits, the strap idea I had worked great.  I had the pipe in the building in less than 15 mins after using the straps to hold the curve of the pipe.  Worked so good I decided to sacrifice two of them  to hold the pipe upright at the back of where the boiler will be sitting as I backfilled.  Our land is so rocky, anytime we dig I have to back fill with creek sand, place about 3inches in the bottom of the trench and then backfill the pipe with another 15 inches or so before placing dirt in the hole.  Pipe is installed, finally, and the yard is graded and almost ready for reseeding.  This phase of the project is almost complete.  More photes uploaded http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/library/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation?sort=3&page=1.  Also attached a pick of the straps holding my pipe. 

[slimjim]

Strip the outer layer back a bit to allow you to push and pull at the same time.

[EE Farm Boy]

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/library/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation?sort=3&page=1. 

Pipes in the ground, got the sidewalk formed up and the PAD, ready for concrete.  Sowed the yard back down with grass, hopefully thing will back to normal shortly, Phase 1 of this project almost complete. 

[EE Farm Boy]

New Pics uploaded.  I was able to pour the concrete today for the pad and sidewalk.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/library/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation?sort=3&page=1

QUESTION:

My pipe location front to back is off a bit.  I did not notice and could not get them perfectly aligned.  Does anyone know the space in the back of the BL2840 where the pipes come up?  I need 10" to get both pipes up in the boiler.  If it is less than 10", any suggestions on how to get them in the boiler.  Everything was planned and done as I expected but this, one of the most important things got away from me as this pipe is very difficult to get just right.