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[idahohay]

Have picked up alot of good information here and finally need to get my install finalized.  My owb has worked well all winter heating my new shop with a water to air exchanger that now has to come out so I can finish the wall it is hooked to and get my in floor zones going.  Would like to get some comments on my schematic. I'm pretty confident it will do the job as the building is well insulated-under the slab, the walls, attic.

Not shown on right- the owb, and the zone to the slab isn't labeled. Would appreciate any suggestions as to fill and purge valve locations, check valves, etc.  I'm planning on using Grundfos 15-58 3-speed pumps (with IFC) for the primary loop and the two zones, the w/h pumps will be taco 006's.  I have wiring in place for floor sensors but haven't decided yet on how the pumps will be controlled. The primary pump will come on when either zone calls for heat, and the two pumps for the dhw will both come on when a tank aquastat calls for heat so no need for a thermostatic mixing valve. Any thoughts?

[slimjim]

  I have a couple of suggestions and I'm sure others will chime in as well, some may agree some not but I aint skeered. First I'm not sure but I don't think you really need the 006 on the domestic side of your plate exchanger if you use street pressure to drive it through the plate exchanger and then through the cold water in portion of the tank, second on your primary loop there is no real reason for the IFC circ as it will more than likely be driven constantly, Nice drawing!

[LittleJohn]

Nice drawing, in regards to pump selection - Grundfos Alphas are not a bad choice, but they are more beneficial when you have a varying amount of flow (think pumping to a manifold and you are zoning my loop, so 1 or many loops - loops could be opening causing different GPM requirements).  **Most Grundfos pump I have bought in the last few year already have the check valve in them, and does not take much to pull out if not requried.

In regards to fill/purge location there are many thing to keep in mind; but generally its easier to "push" air up and out of a loop to purge, than to force it down and out.  Water will take the path of least resistance and isolation valves are nice to direct flow where you want; best if you can have one on either side of a pump (makes replacement easier in the future)

**Thinking about easy of maintenance, it might be worth while putting union connections on the heat exchanger (easier than cutting pipe to replace) - JUST A THOUGHT

About DHW, if you run a side arm heater instead of a Flat Plate, you might not need the pump; hot water will rise up center of side arm creating flow inside of DHW tank - generally called "ghost flow" when it happens in a radiant system, generally very desirable for DHW

[mlappin]

 

[idahohay]

Slimjim, thanks for the response. I still might hook up the water heater as you suggest and the check valve will most likely come out of the pump on the primary circuit. 

LittleJohn, the pumps are not actually the Alpha's but the UPS 15-58 Super brute. I got flanges with valves and unions coming for the fphe's. Good point.   Hoping to get some more suggestions on where to put some boiler drains.

[sceptre74]

Not sure if you can tell, but slimjim has them coming right off of each port here on the fphe. That's where I'll be putting mine as well

[idahohay]

Thanks Sceptre. Looks like  1" union ? Then a 1"x3/4"x1" (CxFIPxC) ? and 1/4 turn boiler drains? Good for flushing if there is a need.

[sceptre74]

Here is the parts list for the whole thing

[NaturallyAspirated]

Nice drawing, looks good!   

Neal

[LittleJohn]

Spectre FPHE looks nice but one draw back of not have an isolation valve between the fill port and the HE, is that when filling and purging system you can not force water out thru the loops/system (it will want to go thru the HE - path of least resistance).  So it may take you a while to fill/purge system

Also, after looking at the picture again, I see the use of webstone valves - they have some very nice option with regards to a flange/isolation valve/drain combintation all-in-one.

[idahohay]

Thanks Sceptre for the list. As a non-pro it takes time figuring out the fittings.  Just placed a big order for parts online, and although the price hurt, what really hurts is buying a valve or copper fitting locally for five times the price it would have been on line.  Plus local for me is 35 miles to a hardware store with poor selection, about 60 miles to a plumbing supply, and 65 to a HomeDepot.

Might still order a couple of these.

[LittleJohn]

Thanks Sceptre for the list. As a non-pro it takes time figuring out the fittings.  Just placed a big order for parts online, and although the price hurt, what really hurts is buying a valve or copper fitting locally for five times the price it would have been on line.  Plus local for me is 35 miles to a hardware store with poor selection, about 60 miles to a plumbing supply, and 65 to a HomeDepot.

Might still order a couple of these.

Less solder/pipe joint = less potential leak points.  Plus you will always want/need more isolation and drain valve than you think u need

[idahohay]

Finally done and here is a pic of what I ended up with. Quite a bit different from what I started  planning, wouldn't be the first time thats happened.  Everything working well, and plenty of domestic hot water.  Had a some  leaks associated with the unions on the fphe, unions on the dwh, and two thermometer wells installed in copper using teflon tape.  Thanks to all  for  the past advice and answered questions.

[slimjim]

Nicely done, Glad to see the thought and patience that I know was involved! You should be proud of your work!

[LittleJohn]

Somebady REALLY likes to SWEAT I see 

Better put some insulation on the piping otherwise you might end up with a very hot mechanical room; words of advise from a guy who did not insulate the 1st year.