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[slimjim]

One of our dealers, I think maybe Wi. had somebody back right into his lot and haul one away.

[Crow]

  Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?

Not to be a smart *ss, but anchor the stove? Is somebody going to steal it?

  Jeepers I would hope not but these days who knows? No I only assume since they gave me the option to and I had the means to do it why not?
After all, I did anchor the house to the foundation, was that silly? We ordered the stove after a wicked storm uprooted trees in our area and also being in an open area why would I not, didn't cost much for a little peace of mind. 

[slimjim]

Welllllll the B-L is in pretty high demand right now so perhaps lagging it down isn't a bad idea.

[Sloppy_Snood]

  Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?

My BL 34-44 will not be anchored to the concrete pad.  At 2850 lbs plus 1,000 lbs of water, 2 U.S. tons ought to hold it right where it is.

As you will see in the next post of mine, if they can steal it off the hill behind my house, good luck.  A fully loaded 6-wheel drive concrete truck of 58,000 lbs couldn't even make it up the hill.   

If they do make it up the hill, my dwarf Nigerian "attack goats" will bite them in the gonads. 

[slimjim]

SOOO you aren't worried about the wind blowing it over on it's side then?

[Sloppy_Snood]

October 24, 2014:  The Case 621F arrived and the job of moving the stove from the side of my drive to its final location on the pad was completed without a problem.  No substitute for large machines to move heavy objects!    Rotated the stove in the air until correctly positioned and operator Mike set her down gently.













Chalk up: $80 for machine operator labor.

Next up?  Stripping Logstor and prepping for connections to supply and return inlets on the stove.  Capping off the second set of supply/return inlets.   
 

[slimjim]

Those are some pretty nice looking bush hogs in the backgroud there Slopster' do they have names?

[Sloppy_Snood]

The goat that is predominantly black in color is "Windfire" and the other goat with more white coloring is "Magic."  5 year old dwarf Nigerian wethers.

[slimjim]

I thought they were dogs at first, until I blew up the picture,did they help with clearing the land?

[Sloppy_Snood]

They might as well be dogs... they follow you everywhere and like to sleep in the F250 truck bed.  They do help eat all of the hickory nuts, acorns, walnuts, and beech nuts that fall on the hill in the fall (like walking on marbles at times). I used a Caterpillar D6 bulldozer for "shaping" that nice, tapering grade to the hill face.

[slimjim]

They certainly look well fed!

[Sloppy_Snood]

Those two bozos have put on their winter fat and heavy coats... the winter coats make them look larger than they are.  So are the lives of the free-ranging, poop machine duo.... LOL

[mlappin]

  Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?

Not to be a smart *ss, but anchor the stove? Is somebody going to steal it?

  Jeepers I would hope not but these days who knows? No I only assume since they gave me the option to and I had the means to do it why not?
After all, I did anchor the house to the foundation, was that silly? We ordered the stove after a wicked storm uprooted trees in our area and also being in an open area why would I not, didn't cost much for a little peace of mind.

A house catches a LOT more wind for starters.

[Sloppy_Snood]

A house catches a LOT more wind for starters.

I use dwarf Nigerian goats for wind breakers so I am uncertain I needed any anchor bolts at all. LOL!

Crow's point has me thinking though (a good thing sometimes)... I need to check with my home owner's insurance company to make sure the stove is covered in the event of tornado damage.  But honestly, even if it is anchored during a tornado, it will probably be destroyed (I saw that movie "Twister" and now tornadoes scare me).  Nonetheless, I may just add 4 strap bolts over the feet and epoxy them into the pad for good measure.  Thanks Crow. 

[Sloppy_Snood]

November 9, 2014:  Finally got around to drawing my home's layout and beginning to figure out what I want to use to heat and materials I am going to need.  The following picture is the 1st floor of Casa de Snood (CDS) that my family and I spend 80+% of our waking hours in living.  Note that while we have a propane-fueled, forced air heating/cooling system, the great room, kitchen, and dining rooms are a good 7 degrees F to 10 degrees F colder than the bedrooms and bathrooms in the winter (lopsided as all heck!    ).

Note: Scale of the drawing is 1 square on the graph paper is 1 foot of length/width.



In order to heat this space and the basement and garage, I first drew the layout of the areas and then used colored pencils to kind of figure out where I was going to run copper pipe and Pex for radiant floor heating (the red-dashed line area situated below the kitchen, dining room, and part of the great room).  Here is my basement/garage drawing and thoughts on paper:

Note: Scale of the drawing is 1 square on the graph paper is 1 foot of length/width.



Basic heating system layout I have in mind includes the following:

• 20-plate heat exchanger for the water heater
• water-to-air heat exchanger for the forced air system (plenum size is 17" x 21" )
• 1/2" PEXa radiant loops (for radiant floor heating in the entire Great Room, Ktichen, and Dining Room)
• 60,000 to 100,000 BTU/hr unit heater in the garage hanging from the ceiling
• a Watts 5-loop stainless steel manifold (or similar) for radiant loops
• Grundfos pump(s) as needed

Aside from the radiant floor loops (total number of zones is undetermined at this point) being 1/2-inch PEXa, I intend on using copper and bronze ball valves for the main loop of the plumbing. 

Any suggestions system designers?  Need to start gathering materials. ;-)