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[slimjim]

No they are not! I will not get into the issues with stainless anymore than to say that some manufacturers have had good results with stainless, we have not and made the choice to build a high quality unit that is sectional and easy to repair either by welding or replacing parts in the feild, the one thing I personally do not like about stainless is that it is not at all easy for the layman to repair.

[Sprinter]

  Thanks Sprinter, where you been, haven't heard from you lately, everything OK?

Oh yeah, just busy with the new baby and work is crazy.....

[slimjim]

New Baby? CONGRATULATIONS! very busy here as well, the Economy must be improving, I saw only 1 panhandler in Biddeford Me. on my way out of town day before yesterday, he was standing in front of Wal- Mart about 200 feet from a crew of guys digging a ditch by hand for a new light in front of the Sushi bar, I wonder if he approached them for a job.

[mlappin]

  Thanks Sprinter, where you been, haven't heard from you lately, everything OK?

Oh yeah, just busy with the new baby and work is crazy.....

Grats on the newest deduction.

[Sloppy_Snood]

P&M stoves aren't stainless, are they?

No.  The firebox is 1/4" cold rolled mild carbon steel and the outer water jacket is 3/8" cold-rolled mild steel.  Cold rolled "mild steel" is basically a low carbon steel with 0.05% to 0.30% carbon in its composition.  Strong and relatively inexpensive (for a steel).

The Portage & Main BL series Ultimizer fireboxes are lined with 2 1/2 inches of refractory cement in firebox or increased thermal mass and elimination of issues with ash line corrosion.

The chimney extensions are indeed stainless steel (304).

[drex]

So I have been reading everyone's comments and still researching other threads as well and have really been pulled towards the P&M Ultimizers.  I have a dealer about 3 hours or so away in Somerset, PA (if anyone has dealt with him before and has some feedback.  He also lists them on ebay as well) and figured it wouldn't be that bad of a drive out there to look and/or pick on up.  If I were to get one for what I have now I could easily run a 28-40 for my demand now and probably for the next 2 or 3 years. I'm figuring through my calculations I would need about 150k btu for the house and that would leave quite a bit available for DHW.  I am planning on a 30x40 fully insulated garage going up in those next 2 or 3 years that I would also like to heat.  Could I get away with the 28-40 or should I oversize now and go with the 34-44?  This was a pretty cold winter for us this past winter but I would think for most of the year I would be ok with either relying on a secondary heat on just those real cold nights.

[slimjim]

Drex, please do not oversize to that extent, let Brian know that you will be interested in trading up when you get the garage built.

[Pinehouse4]

Not only am I impressed with the boiler I am impressed with all of the people behind the unit that sell and support it.

I have a BL 34/44 on order.

Bob

[slimjim]

We are very happy to help, Thanks Bob.

[stratton]

Scott, where have you been? I miss your insight and heated discussions with slim.

[slimjim]

Scott will be back soon, he is very busy, I spoke with him a few days ago!

[slimjim]

OK, can you explain your reasoning with that, it might help others understand better the differences

[Sprinter]

Adding storage / buffer tank will fix any oversize ing issues. It will keep the stove in the Burne or sweet spot much longer and lengthen time between burn cycles.

[slimjim]

Koehndk could you please explain your preference to stainless, when I bought my new Leatherman last week, it came with an insert that said I should oil it to keep it from rusting, I thought stainless didn't rust, and for $85 dollars you would think it wouldn't, is there a brand of stove that you are aware of that is built with better stainless than my new Leatherman?

[JDfarmer]

what did you end up buying? I have a NCB 250 coal for 3-4 seasons now.