Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Author Topic: Mahoning 300 and new user  (Read 1356 times)

mlappin

  • Fabricator Extraordinaire
  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4042
  • OWF Brand: homebuilt, now HeatmasterSS
  • OWF Model: Martin Steel Works Gen 1 then, now a G200.
  • North Liberty, Indiana
    • View Profile
    • Altheatsolutions
Mahoning 300 and new user
« on: November 08, 2015, 07:13:13 AM »

Another new member caught up and the first ten posts needing approved:



Hello everyone! I just got a used Mahoning 300 and I am going to attempt this OWB setup for the first time. I currently run 2 coal furnaces with forced air to heat my house, one in the main house and one for the addition. I know this Mahoning 300 will be able to do both sides just fine. A few questions after all the reading I have done on the net and in this forum.

Pump location:  Pumps are at the top of the unit. This would mean less pressure on the furnace side of the pump and more pressure on the return, should I switch this up so I can have more pressure on the furnace pump side?

I have calculated the Head Loss on one of mines runs to be ~9 feet minus the heat exchange which I was not sure how to calculate. My setup is Hot water out of the furnace into 40 feet of 1inch pex, ball valve, 20 foot pex into heat exchange, 20 foot pex , ball valve, 40 foot back to furnace. Taco 007 handle that? I have a similar run with about 20 more feet of pex with a taco 009.

Fill line to furnace: Does it freeze up at the furnace? I would like to have a float type of system to auto as needed, any suggestions on doing this? I was thinking something like a toilet bowl float / mechanism :)

Additives / PH levels: Whats the best additive / corrosion inhib to use inside the furnace? What should I maintain the PH level at?

I'm no plumber but I do work on computers(sry no macs), so if anyone here needs help with anything computer related, hit me up! =)

Thanks,

Eradz
Logged
Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

mlappin

  • Fabricator Extraordinaire
  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4042
  • OWF Brand: homebuilt, now HeatmasterSS
  • OWF Model: Martin Steel Works Gen 1 then, now a G200.
  • North Liberty, Indiana
    • View Profile
    • Altheatsolutions
Re: Mahoning 300 and new user
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2015, 07:18:41 AM »

Pump placement isnít that critical, on the back of the stove they tend to be easier to bleed the air out of the system, if in the basement air locks can be a problem but is much easier to change in the dead of winter. If your pumps are in question replace with a quality unit from Grundfos. I have one thatís going on 15 years old and still runs just fine.

On the one hand the ideal of autofill is appealing, but if you ever get a leak it will just keep refilling, you shouldnít lose that much water anyways. If you absolutely want an auto fill get a low water sensor and install it in a convenient place in the stove a the water level you want the stove to maintain, run a wire back to the house and place a solenoid with back flow preventer in the basement and introduce make up water into the return line going to the furnace.

Iíd see what Mahoning recommended for treatment and stick with that.
Logged
Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

Eradz

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2
  • OWF Brand: Mahoning
  • OWF Model: 300
    • View Profile
Re: Mahoning 300 and new user
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2015, 07:50:11 PM »

mlappin,

Thanks for the info! Do you think those pumps will be able to handle the flow of water for 1 inch lines? I just want to get it up and running for this season then see how it does. I hope the pumps will do what I need for this year atleast, then replace for next season if I have too. I do like the idea of having them in the basement, that could be an option. I plan on having my furnace and fuel all under 1 big building on a 16x19 concrete slab. What about pump placement on the furnace tho, there are upper and lower ports?I dont want to have to wheelbarrel coal 50 feet back into my addition again this year lol. Should I add any bleeders?

Thnaks,

Eradz
« Last Edit: November 09, 2015, 07:52:17 PM by Eradz »
Logged

mlappin

  • Fabricator Extraordinaire
  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4042
  • OWF Brand: homebuilt, now HeatmasterSS
  • OWF Model: Martin Steel Works Gen 1 then, now a G200.
  • North Liberty, Indiana
    • View Profile
    • Altheatsolutions
Re: Mahoning 300 and new user
« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2015, 08:49:34 AM »

I used to have my pump in the basement, much easier to bleed when itís on back of the stove, if properly set up right shouldnít take 10 minutes to swap a pump out.

I have an auto vent at the highest point of my system in the basement.
Logged
Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana