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[heat550]

Yes Insul seal I'm using . Because it's only 50 foot run copper tube should work perfect . See this install is at my Brother's .. I have 50 foot run of insul seal on my system at my house with pex Al pex . I know for a fact that trench has 0 water temp drop I tested it for 5 years temp at boiler is exactly the same in house. Now to make it even better I'm going to use 1 inch coil tube copper L in the trench inside Insul seal no worry about pap bubbling or o rings and rings clamps. I can even use blue silicone hose if needed as they make 1.112 ID hose . So really it's easyer then dealing with pex Al pex . After the trench it's all going to be 1 inch copper inside house also. I was just seeing if there was any unforeseen issues doing it this way . I'm installing it with a 20 year + service life . And yes I know regular heater hose lasted 17 years on one of my exchangers. So I wouldn't be afraid to use the blue silicone semi radiator hose. If I need to.
And far as logstor .. radiating heat is a issue 1 inch of foam is only R7 max  thats not enough your heating trench more then you think
I'm dealing with heavy clay in our area yes you dig a hole you just made a pond .  Take logstor coil it in pool of water and fire up the boiler see how fast water temp in pool goes up. That's radiant heat loss. Yes some might say I'm to picky but it's true. If your in light soil this might not be a issues here it's a issue. These are just my findings with location and my install others may very. I'm still open to any info why copper tubing in trench is a negative. Besides it's on sale at local builder store 👍

Heat550
 

[heat550]

Do you think I should use K the thickest copper tubing ? I can get that also . Under only pump pressure it be hard to
believe I could wear copper out most there be from boiler is 2-3 psi because I have the weighted ball heatmor style .
and most pump pressure would be is 13 psi . My only copper torcher test was we had 150ft going to the barn for 35 years
and there was cast iron in pump house that was at 40 psi  never had a issue that was copper tubing .. rust isn't a issue on this boiler it will be running antifreeze .  Yes flow charts got me on to running all copper also . 

Heat550

Copper will probably work fine. If you get much particulate in the water it will wear out the copper much faster than pex.
I would use 1" pex-al-pex or 1-1/4" pex if I was doing it.

[shepherd boy]

 I've seen very little copper run under ground and doubt others have either, so there is very little experiential knowledge to be shared. We run a lot of regular 1" wrapped pex and I know a lot of people on this forum like logstor, but it's worked for us and we know what to expect when we do an install. Sounds like you've  had experience with it, but your charting ground we haven't been on so we're waiting to see what happens. Can't give a lot of advise.

[FrozenMongrel]

I laid 60' of logstor in clay soil that was actually a trench of water while I was back filling it. I have 0 heat loss from the boiler to the HX in my basement. I'm sure there is some, but nothing that I can measure. I was standing on the Logstor so it wouldn't float as I was back filling the trench. I wouldn't recommend planning an install through water, but I have had zero issues with the install. Copper has a much higher heat transfer than pex-al-pex. I would not want the entire underground run to be fighting itself. Copper is used for baseboards and radiators in vehicles for a reason. It is extremely efficient at heat transfer.

[schoppy]

One other issue with copper is corrosion. I have seen copper corrode especially when connected to dissimilar materials. That is one reason they use di-electric unions on water heaters.

You have no issue with possible corrosion with pex. I would be using 1 1/4" pex if it were me and save money doing it.

I have 1 1/4" pex for my primary loop in the house using mono-flow tee's (thanks Slim) and no problems with any crimp fittings.

[heat550]

Search about copper tubing they use it for ice milt also soft copper tubing . Its just cost that gets out of hand .
Im learning as I go and far as the blue silicone heater hose they make like 3 different sizes of 1 inch . any Napa store can order it
for you as its a Eaton product . Im sure cost of the bigger 1.113 and bigger cost more but its 2 ply also . Im now reseaching best clamps to use on that blue silicone hose . really old style clamps you tighten with screw driver can cause damage . and ones you use like on a car spring style would be better they make some dam thick ones also and takes a good size pliers to get them on there .
Have any of you tried different clamps on the silicone hose ? Also I was thinking of half a flare on soft copper and sand of sharp edges.
Just a bit of a catch of the copper So the hose  stays in place after clamps are on .  I know there's a die for a fare tool that can used to make like smooth rounded fold . I just need to search more maybe . 

Heat550

[heat550]

 I will post all temp readings when I get it fired up . Im just supplying 109,000 BTUs to the house 22x22 exchanger Fan on furnance is 4 speed max being 1600 CFM and domestic water heater side arm . and a Heatmor 200css . goals are 0 heat loss and only firing it one time a day . colder then -10f will be 2 times a day . heating 3800 sq ft house . Heatmor 200 css is rated at 5000 sqft 200,000 btus out put . and the big goal average 8-9 cord a year . house at 72f .  after its installed will be the tell all  the house is all 2x6 walls and well insulated .

Heat550

eta on fire up is about a month out . I will post pictures also putting boiler together and install of the new base with new weldment
is going to be epic LOL  chain hoist and oliver 770 with sky crane attachment  with chain hoist . 

[heat550]

Intall is getting more interesting now we're going with 80 feet insulseal with 2 - 1 inch copper tubes with extra insulation on the copper before sliding into insul seal . It will make insulseal over R 20

Heat550