Ok, I am totally a believer in the lower input temperatures sent into the floor! It really works. I have went all weekend running a 100 degree SWT, and at the beginning of a cycle, the RWT is right around 77-78 degrees. It takes quite awhile, maybe 30-45 minutes, but the RWT will rise to about 80 to maybe 81 degrees and sit there for some time before the wall thermostat is satisfied at a 72 degree set point. I will continue to play with the Supply water temp, running it down slightly more to see what it will do with the return temps. I need to purchase an infra-red thermometer to check floor surface temps.
The biggest problem I am facing now is the fact that once my wall thermostat is satisfied, and shuts the circulating pump off, my living space is so tight, that such a long period of time may pass before the wall thermostat calls for heat again, and in the mean time, I am loosing my fire in the OWB. Hardy H2, I have removed both screws from the blower flap, I have turned the aquastat up to 175 set point. In the past couple of weeks, I have come home from work to absolutely no fire in the box, having to unload and re-start a fire. This is VERY frustrating. I am simply not getting enough burn cycles during the middle of the day, allowing the fire to burn out. Some may say this is a good problem, but really, it sucks. This is an issue that I do not know how to overcome. Maybe it will be better since I have lowered the SWT, creating a more constant cooler RWT to the boiler, therefore creating a few more burn cycles throughout the day. Yesterday, being Sunday, I found the Wall Thermostat at 72 degrees, pump off, and about 4 hours later, it was 73 degrees in the house. I ended up opening windows to get some cool air in the house (yesterdays high was about 39 or 40). This is my year #2 and I'm still learning as I go!